Here is the gearbox. I run it backwards to get 540 from the 2000+ rpm mower PTO. Then use a Kill-O-Watt device to set mower throttle to get 60 Hz. My 22hp F-935 get s me at least 11kw if I'm too lazy to get the big JD out.
Kubota F2880 Out Front Mower
- Thread starter walker450
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LouNY
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I've been considering a 4 pole generator head that would turn 1800 rpm for lighter load days rather then the tractor on the 25 kw pto unit.
But that 3-1 gear box would be nice also.
But that 3-1 gear box would be nice also.
Hay Dude
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The previous owner of my F3860 used it for running a PTO generator and had a front blade for pushing out pen pack
Hay Dude
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You have company. I have purchased quite a few things “long distance”. As long as the shipping doesn’t kill the deal and you can feel satisfied it’s not loaded with problems mechanically, its fine.
azbinder
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When living in Arizona, I made trips to ND, MT, IL, MO, all to pickup International trucks that I bought.
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This might be it: Kubota F series
sequoyah101
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I have a 3680, it came from Iowa 13 years ago and I gave 10.7 grand for it with 545 hours. It is an '07 model. It now has like 1,400 hours.
The worst that has happened is someone (hired hand) didn't grease the pto shaft slide splines and the stress wiped out the mower gear box; nearly a grand in parts. Same person also dinged up the front of the foot pan, broke a light, broke the glass of the temp gauge, broke the engine cover grille, broke the plastic steering covers when broke the headlight etc. He became unaffordable.
There are some zerks that are just downright hard to get to and they are underneath. So here is the list of be awares:
1. When you turn watch out for barb wire, the sidewalls are paper thin and I have lots of plugs that should be inside patches
2. Grease it all at least every tank of fuel. You may need a few angle zerks to help yourself.
3. The bellville cup washers wear out. I found after market ones this year from an outfit on Amazon but they seem too ductile. Figure on replacing those about every two years.
4. Keep an extra belt
5. Ninja blades are not worth the trouble. I mow 2 to 3 acres a week and replace about every two years so I now have a stack of used blades. I buy them in bulk every few years
6. Roughest riding machine on the place. I will try replacing the seat suspension soon. Keep the front tires between 10 and 15 psi to help yourself
7. I have had to replace the casters on front and back
8. Rebuilt the spindles and replaced all mower shaft seals this year. The gearbox sprung a leak. I used generic seals and got all of them for about the price of two or three Kubota seals. Seals are seals if they fit. Ditto for bearings. Again, I got an aftermarket kit for all three spindles for about $100, nearly the same price as one spindle kit from Kubota. It runs a whole lot better now as I also replaced one pulley that had wallowed out somehow.
9. Old Kubota paint turns Pinkish in time even if you keep the machine in the barn like I do.
10. Blow it clean with a leaf blower when you are finished mowing.
11. The things are heavy so don't go mudding.
12. I run without the belt covers or discharge chute. Just too much grass and junk get beneath them.
13. I had difficulty finding a battery around here that fit properly.
The worst that has happened is someone (hired hand) didn't grease the pto shaft slide splines and the stress wiped out the mower gear box; nearly a grand in parts. Same person also dinged up the front of the foot pan, broke a light, broke the glass of the temp gauge, broke the engine cover grille, broke the plastic steering covers when broke the headlight etc. He became unaffordable.
There are some zerks that are just downright hard to get to and they are underneath. So here is the list of be awares:
1. When you turn watch out for barb wire, the sidewalls are paper thin and I have lots of plugs that should be inside patches
2. Grease it all at least every tank of fuel. You may need a few angle zerks to help yourself.
3. The bellville cup washers wear out. I found after market ones this year from an outfit on Amazon but they seem too ductile. Figure on replacing those about every two years.
4. Keep an extra belt
5. Ninja blades are not worth the trouble. I mow 2 to 3 acres a week and replace about every two years so I now have a stack of used blades. I buy them in bulk every few years
6. Roughest riding machine on the place. I will try replacing the seat suspension soon. Keep the front tires between 10 and 15 psi to help yourself
7. I have had to replace the casters on front and back
8. Rebuilt the spindles and replaced all mower shaft seals this year. The gearbox sprung a leak. I used generic seals and got all of them for about the price of two or three Kubota seals. Seals are seals if they fit. Ditto for bearings. Again, I got an aftermarket kit for all three spindles for about $100, nearly the same price as one spindle kit from Kubota. It runs a whole lot better now as I also replaced one pulley that had wallowed out somehow.
9. Old Kubota paint turns Pinkish in time even if you keep the machine in the barn like I do.
10. Blow it clean with a leaf blower when you are finished mowing.
11. The things are heavy so don't go mudding.
12. I run without the belt covers or discharge chute. Just too much grass and junk get beneath them.
13. I had difficulty finding a battery around here that fit properly.
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sequoyah101
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- CaseIH 50A, CaseIH JX95, CaseIH JX80, Allis 190XT, Daewoo DD80L Dozer, Schaeff SKL831 Loader, Komatsu PC40-7 Trackhoe, JCB 210S TLB, JD750, JD820, Kubota FR3680, Kioti Mechron
Two trips broke me from long distance hauls. One was an Allis 190XT from up near Springfield, Missouri and the other was a 13,000 lb loader from Columbus, Mississippi. Never again for anything so heavy and tall.
Thought about buying a dragline but the shipping and getting it sold when I finished with it were enough to think better of such a lark. They are just not one person friendly to maintain either. The boom hoist cables get long in the tooth and rigging those or dropping the boom are also enough to deter thoughts of owning an old affordable one. A broke boom cable on a NW95 sent me diving into the mud beneath the rake of a barge nearly 50 years ago.
Thought about buying a dragline but the shipping and getting it sold when I finished with it were enough to think better of such a lark. They are just not one person friendly to maintain either. The boom hoist cables get long in the tooth and rigging those or dropping the boom are also enough to deter thoughts of owning an old affordable one. A broke boom cable on a NW95 sent me diving into the mud beneath the rake of a barge nearly 50 years ago.
Besides a good snowblower, your can get a nice power rake for it. I think it was a Harley model. You have a great view when raking.
I would nominate a ZD or ZG as having even rougher ride that this.
Tire pressures can be a big help in improving the ride. On a zero turn, if the tires are set too soft they can rip up the turf. 11 pounds is the lowest I can go on my ZG without tearing turf. On a Deere x720 with 26x12x12 rears and no wheel weights I set at 4.5 pounds for mowing. A 318 or 425 can run 4 pounds on the 23x10.50x12 rears. Try it and see what you think, the F series fronts are powered, but not turning by speed shifting, so they might run at a pretty low pressure as the use is pretty much the same as the Deere tractors. You might have to bring them up a pound or so to run on hills, but I would experiment. The rear castor tires I would set around 8.5, same as the x720 fronts. As long as the tires are not in zero turn service they can run low without problems in my experience. Give it a try and watch the tires closely to see how they do. The original tires on the 318's and 425's were 2 ply, too. 4 ply tires make them ride rougher, but 2 plys are hard to find now in my location.
To run the low pressures, you need to buy a low pressure gauge and check them every month, as all tires leak very slowly. At that pressure range, reducing half a pound from 5 the 4.5 makes a big difference in comfort.
I would nominate a ZD or ZG as having even rougher ride that this.
Tire pressures can be a big help in improving the ride. On a zero turn, if the tires are set too soft they can rip up the turf. 11 pounds is the lowest I can go on my ZG without tearing turf. On a Deere x720 with 26x12x12 rears and no wheel weights I set at 4.5 pounds for mowing. A 318 or 425 can run 4 pounds on the 23x10.50x12 rears. Try it and see what you think, the F series fronts are powered, but not turning by speed shifting, so they might run at a pretty low pressure as the use is pretty much the same as the Deere tractors. You might have to bring them up a pound or so to run on hills, but I would experiment. The rear castor tires I would set around 8.5, same as the x720 fronts. As long as the tires are not in zero turn service they can run low without problems in my experience. Give it a try and watch the tires closely to see how they do. The original tires on the 318's and 425's were 2 ply, too. 4 ply tires make them ride rougher, but 2 plys are hard to find now in my location.
To run the low pressures, you need to buy a low pressure gauge and check them every month, as all tires leak very slowly. At that pressure range, reducing half a pound from 5 the 4.5 makes a big difference in comfort.