Kubota G5200H frozen block

[jinman]

Are rubber expanding freezeplugs an option rather than exact replacements?
David from jax

Great suggestion!:thumbsup: Those things are super easy to install and work great. I had a '73 Dodge Charger with a piece-o-junk 400 cid engine. After only 20k miles, two freeze plugs rusted through from the inside with pinhole leaks. I removed the old plugs and replaced them with the rubber ones and never had another problem. I still don't know why the freeze plugs failed on that engine because the anti-freeze looked fine with no rust. Just another "Mopar Mystery" I guess.:confused2:

 

[fishman]

Jim, is that part number for the impeller and seal? Can't tell when I look it up and it doesn't say for which model it is for. What I found was the whole assembly which is about $118, part Kubota Water Pump Assy. PN#15852-73030

It sure looks like it will need replaced. It would be really nice to just replace the water pump internals and not the whole thing.

Thanks for your help

 

[fishman]

I'll have to check on these rubber freeze plugs.

 

[jinman]

Jim, is that part number for the impeller and seal? Can't tell when I look it up and it doesn't say for which model it is for. What I found was the whole assembly which is about $118, part Kubota Water Pump Assy. PN#15852-73030

It sure looks like it will need replaced. It would be really nice to just replace the water pump internals and not the whole thing.

Thanks for your help

John, I went to messicks.com and clicked on Kubota. Then I entered G5200 in the model and came to a page where I could get an emailed pdf with the parts diagrams. I chose the one for Engine. I scrolled through many pages and near the last of the PDF file, the water pump is shown. It is pages 35, 36, and 37. On page 37, the individual parts are shown. The number I gave you is from item #70 on page 35 and may not be the complete pump. By clicking on "Add to Cart" you can be linked backed to messicks.com and find the price of the parts. If you can find the individual parts on page 37, you might be able to rebuild your pump.:thumbsup:

If you have trouble getting the diagram, PM me with your email and I'll forward the PDF to you.

 

[fishman]

I requested those diagrams a week ago but haven't gotten them. Better check my trash folder. I'll pm you too, thanks!

 

[sandman2234]

I would think you would want to plug the freeze plug holes, silicone the water pump outlet, and fire the engine up before you spent the type of money to repair the water pump. If it froze and cracked internally, spending money on it might be a complete waste. Get the external holes fixed and see if it runs ok, or at all before throwing money away.
David from jax

 

[fishman]

Well one freeze plug was the right size but the other was too small so it's back to the dealer on Monday. Plugs are different than what I've read about on the net. The dome goes in first and there is no need to "dimple"' it.

 

[fishman]

I installed both freeze plugs yesterday which was dead simple. I also plugged the weep hole from the water pump with a whittled stick The tractor has additional problems I believe.

It took a bit to get it running (low battery voltage from sitting, charger helped, but it still won't turn over most of the time, just sits there). When I can get it to turn over, it runs but won't get full power at all. The water pump bearings were complaining a little bit and it will need replaced for sure. The tractor ran for a bit then kept dying with some black smoke evident. Before it died it kind of sounded like it was starving for fuel. Here are a couple of thoughts I had:

The previous owner changed the filter, but didn't bleed the fuel system. I figured once the tractor was running, the air would purge from the system and that would be it. Does this happen or could there still be air trapped in the lines causing this problem? The tractor has been run about 10 minutes since I've owned it.

Secondly, I started it when I got it because I figured the only problem was air in the line, and I didn't realize that the coolant was gone. Stupid of me I know, but in Texas, the last thing one would think about is a frozen block. Anyway, I let my son drive it and it overheated and died after about 3 or 4 minutes. I didn't realize that was the problem and so I started it back up, saw the temperature gauge, and quickly drove it into the barn as the needle rose and I shut it off. Any chance I damaged the engine so that it would run, but not make full power?

Right now I'm limiting the amount I spend on it until I find out if the engine is operational. I plan on bleeding the fuel lines tonight and seeing if that helps. But if anyone has any thoughts, I'm all ears.

 

[jinman]

John, my G1800 has two filters and an electric fuel pump. The filter by the engine is the last filter in line. The other filter is behind the left-rear wheel, just behind the little electric fuel pump. If you have that fuel pump and 2nd filter, you can remove the hose at the inlet to your fuel filter by the engine and then turn on the key. Fuel should be pumped out. If it is not, then the rear filter is clogged or the fuel pump is failing. I think if you have clean filters and no clogs in the line, the injector pump will self feed if the fuel tank is full. I don't know if it would self prime or not though.

 

[fishman]

Thanks Jim, I'll give that a try. From what you say it sounds like bleeding the system wouldn't help. I'll still give it a go though if fuel flows from the line using your suggestion.