Peter 315
Super Member
Or a defective switch. Jon
Have to start somewhere.......
Or a defective switch. Jon
I did diagnose it to the safety switch, but I was able to get it to work by cycling the plunger a few times, which felt kind of crunchy. While I was waiting for the switch to come in I went though another episode with the blown OPC fuse. Manually cycling did not work so great this time.If you have to replace a fuse once, that's odd but not a problem I usually try to debug. If it blows a 2nd time, that's a problem & you can't chalk it up to a bad fuse. You really need to figure out the root cause.
A fuse is just a small wire that melts in a specific (safe) location. If you replace the fuse with a bigger one it may be a wire that melts down & burns your whatever (tractor, house) down.
In an OEM electrical system, a blown fuse generally means something is shorting to the frame in some direct or indirect manner. In a custom or modified electrical system it could be an overloaded circuit. But not in any modern reasonably well engineered vehicle.
Putting in a breaker or continually replacing fuses is asking for problems to show up somewhere other than the safety of the fuse box.
The only way a bad switch should blow a fuse is if it permits things to short to ground, which would be a little odd. High resistance due to a corroded or internally fried switch would generally cause high resistance. That would cause wierd not working issues but not increased amperage to blow a fuse. I'd suspect chafed wiring or something in that circuit creating a path to ground.
just do as I did. remove it. No more problems !!I put the same new safety switch in about one year ago and had no further problems. Now I am back to the same old thing. Is there a way to clean it. Can't afford to drop $50.00 every year. I still have the old one too.
John