KUBOTA L3010 LOADER MTD. AUX. HYDRAULICS ?

MadReferee · Mar 14, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( i have a L3000DT. is this about the same as your tractor? i have been trying to figure out how to install rear hydraulics on my tractor, but the dealer says if i use the PB, it will ruin the pump. i would like to do this by buying the parts, and doing it myself. the companies that list top, and tilt kits, do not list one for my tractor. if i could buy a kit, i expect it would be very pricey.)</font>

I find that really hard to believe since your loader valve is a PB valve. It seems to me that your dealer is extremely hydraulically challenged and doesn't even understand what power beyond is and does.

The CCM kit would work perfectly on your tractor as long as you can get the power beyond sleeve from Mark at CCM. It will be your best bang for the bucks spent and the easiest to install.

If you need help configuring the plumbing just ask here and you will get expert help.

accordionman · Mar 20, 2005

MAD,
i think the dealer does not want me to do
my own DIY hydraulic setup. this might be
the reason he gave me bad advice.
accordionman
wlbrown

Bill_M · Mar 20, 2005

Here is my answer to additional hydraulics. Since this picture was taken the two foward valves have had Tees added and run to the front on the right side to allow me to plug in my Meyer snow plow. (Sorry no pic of the plow mounted) I was unable to use the loader circuit because of the regen in the dump cycle. I bought the five section valve, one with float, three metered, one standard (did not have a fourth metered available at the time) two cushion valves, one cylinder for the top link and a cylinder for the side link for about $490.00 with freight. The hoses I am lucky enough to work in a truck fabrication shop that does hydraulics so I get all kinds of " scrap hoses" for the taking. This is on a L2900 yours similar?

PineRidge · Mar 20, 2005

Bill_M that looks like a lot of serious hydraulic fluid under pressure moving within inches of your head to me. Are you using anything on the hoses other that the anti-abrasion sock that I see to protect yourself? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Bill_M · Mar 21, 2005

Pine Ridge, No, there is currently only one piece of wrap on each hose. I did plan on a second covering on the ends at the least, I put it together and never got back to it. Still have to change out a hose and adapter to stop a seeping leak. They are more than inches away but not really that far when you have seen what a burst hose will do. Thanks for the reminder to think safety first!

PineRidge · Mar 22, 2005

Hydraulic oil forced under the skin is dead serious business. Be careful out there Bill.

willywildes · Mar 22, 2005

ya i had a guy at work who blew a hydro line on a concrete mixer. another guy thought he could help him get the load off so he rapped the line with a rubber glove, then a shop rag and held on to it tight thinking he could stop the leak. he stopped it for a second, while it injected it into his finger. they split it open to let it drain for a few days, then did grafts. after that i would call him any time a hydro line would break and ask if he could plug it. He would tell me to kiss his finger. I dont have to tell you where they got the graft. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif