Price Check Kubota L3560 Open Station

[DVR]

Comparing the specs of a L3560 to a L3301 I don't get the value unless you are getting a cab.

700 lbs more weight, 2 hp more at the PTO, and a nicer layout for $5K more than I bought a L3301.

I have a L3301 and a L3560 cab. Both have loaders and R4's. Aside from the cab there are considerable differences in the two. The 3560 "feels" like it has a lot more power. No doubt, it has a lot more features.

 

[Fallon]

I have a L3301 and a L3560 cab. Both have loaders and R4's. Aside from the cab there are considerable differences in the two. The 3560 "feels" like it has a lot more power. No doubt, it has a lot more features.

HST+ & weight. The electronic PTO is handy but not life changing like the other 2.

My L3200 would lift the back end despite loaded R4s & lots of ballast. The L4060 feels tock solid at max lift with little to no rear ballast (loaded R4s).

I'd disagree on the feels like more power bit. My 40hp L4060 feels slower than the L3200, probably is as it has a noticably worse power to weight ratio. The extra weight/traction means it does a lot more work though. The 2 speed HST+ means you just leave it in medium range & rarely have to stop to shift that clunky shifting manual transmission (that every manufacturer uses in the pile of machines I've ran).

 

[tycoonbob]

Well, she's finally here. I've only put maybe 20 minutes on it, but I'm quite liking it. I can already say that I love the H-DS feature. Put it in medium range, H-DS up and down as needed. I'm sure auto H-DS is just as nice. And the Auth Throttle Advance is another nice feature when traveling especially. I haven't had anything in the loader yet, but I'm sure this LA555 will do me just fine. A part of me will always wonder about the LA805, but for my tasks around here, I'll be surprised if I run out of loader at any point.

 

[BRMyers]

Looks very nice and glad you are pleased with your purchase.

 

[crashz]

Congrats on the new rig! Love that barn!

 

[AllByteNoBark]

Look good! I think you will like it. Have fun and be safe.

 

[tycoonbob]

I've put about 1.5 hours on it so far, just learning everything. I'm not gonna lie, a bucket full of dirt in that L2256 bucket on the LA555, you can tell it's quite heavy out front there. I couldn't imagine a bigger bucket with a bigger loader that extends further out (i.e., LA805 + L2296).

Anywho, I definitely need to get a ballast on this thing. I need a box blade, prefer something Land Pride. Thinking the BB2572, but not sure if this is sized appropriate for my L3560. Thoughts/opinions? Also, ballpark idea of what kind of pricing I should expect from my Kubota dealer?

 

[Fallon]

I've put about 1.5 hours on it so far, just learning everything. I'm not gonna lie, a bucket full of dirt in that L2256 bucket on the LA555, you can tell it's quite heavy out front there. I couldn't imagine a bigger bucket with a bigger loader that extends further out (i.e., LA805 + L2296).

Anywho, I definitely need to get a ballast on this thing. I need a box blade, prefer something Land Pride. Thinking the BB2572, but not sure if this is sized appropriate for my L3560. Thoughts/opinions? Also, ballpark idea of what kind of pricing I should expect from my Kubota dealer?

My flail mower weighs 1,700-1,800lbs give or take. I can barely lift it chained close to the back of the bucket (L4060 & the medium loader). The weak spot is hydraulics. The relief valve kicks in before any other signs of issues & it's set correctly. Worlds more stable than lifting heavy (heck sometimes even not heavy) on my L3200. The back end would get really light & even came off the ground once.

I have a rather old 74" heavy Gannon box blade on mine & it works well. The heavier the better. I previously had a 72" King Kutter that you'd find at any farm store. The Gannon weighs a LOT more & that extra weigh means it cuts a LOT better. Not to mention makes better rear ballast for the loader. Power is almost never an issue. You go slow with a box blade & traction is the limiting factor.

Match the box to your tractor width (my track is 72") or just a couple inches wider. Go as heavy as your wallet will suffer. Used is fine, cutting edges are easily replaced & that's all that wears out. Mine was 20-30 years old of hard use when I got it. I'll sell it for what I paid for it if I ever sell it.

 

[tycoonbob]

So I stopped in at my local dealer to price some implements on Tues. (Dec 24). Come to find out, they forgot to fluid fill my tires. They're gonna come pick it up next week, fill, and bring it back to me...no biggie.

However, I was running the tractor yesterday, I recently got an old 6' bush hog and had to work the pin free on the PTO shaft. Got it sorted, put it in the tractor, idled RPM, turn the PTO switch...and...nothing. No lights, no spinny, nothing. Looking through the rear remote lever openings, I can clearly see the PTO button isn't connected. Seriously? Yeah, I can remove 7 screws and plug it in, but since the dealer is coming to get the tractor in a few days to fill the tires, I'm gonna let them do this as well. But it really makes me wonder, did they not do some kind of inspection before sending the tractor out the door? They clearly didn't test PTO functionality.

So while they have the tractor again, I'm gonna ask them to do a twice over on everything. Connections, fluids, etc. Is there anything else specifically I should have them double check? I feel this is a question I shouldn't have to ask, but here I am...

 

[AllByteNoBark]

My PTO button got unhooked somehow also. When I tried it the first time nothing, nada. Looked in with a light and saw the issue. I think it probably got pulled loose when they installed the 3rd function for the loader as the wire is fairly tight. I just went ahead and hooked it back up, no problems since.

 

[tycoonbob]

My PTO button got unhooked somehow also. When I tried it the first time nothing, nada. Looked in with a light and saw the issue. I think it probably got pulled loose when they installed the 3rd function for the loader as the wire is fairly tight. I just went ahead and hooked it back up, no problems since.

Yeah, I can definitely see the wires. Considered hooking it up myself, but I figure since they're coming to pick up the tractor to put fluid in the tires, I'll let them deal with this incase I break something do it, lol. Hopefully they'll do a good once over while they're at it. Other than that, so far I'm loving the 3560. Got about 5 hours on it now, and probably moved 30 cu yds of top soil yesterday. Quite enjoy loader work, haha.

 

[jeff9366]

I've put about 1.5 hours on it so far, just learning everything. I'm not gonna lie, a bucket full of dirt in that L2256 bucket on the LA555, you can tell it's quite heavy out front there. I couldn't imagine a bigger bucket with a bigger loader that extends further out (i.e., LA805 + L2296).

Anywho, I definitely need to get a ballast on this thing. I need a box blade, prefer something Land Pride. Thinking the BB2572, but not sure if this is sized appropriate for my L3560.

I have an open station L3560/LA805 with air inflated rear tires. For 'normal' lifts I attach 650 pound Rollover Box Blade as counterbalance. For repetitive, max lifts I mount 950 pound Disc Harrow, which protrudes far to rear rear, enhancing its effect as counterbalance. Lifting more than 1/3 capacity without TPH counterbalance is hard on the FEL and FEL rubber and mesh hydraulic lines if done routinely. Mount TPH counterbalance.

Since they're coming for the tractor to put fluid in the tires, I'll let them deal with tire loading.

When using the FEL the rear axle is the critical fulcrum. Loading the rear tires will increase stability and hold the rear down proportional to weight but you cannot add enough weight solely through tire loading to make safe FEL max lifts. Supplemental weight behind the rear axle is needed to unload stress on the Loader, front axle and front axle bearings.

Cannot make a TPH counterbalance recommendation for LA555 without knowing rear tire fill material and whether fill will be 50% or 75% of tire volume.

TIRE FILLING MATERIALS: Comparing Types of Liquid Tire Ballast | OrangeTractorTalks

I definitely need counterbalance on this thing. I need a box blade, prefer something Land Pride. Thinking the BB2572, but not sure if this is sized appropriate for my L3560. Also, ballpark idea of what kind of pricing I should expect from my Kubota dealer?

Most of your pricing leverage with Kubota and your dealer is gone after the tractor is purchased. You may pay MSRP for implements or be offered a token discount from the dealer with no Kubota support.

Most/not All dealers deliver implements within 20 miles at NO CHARGE. Clarify dealer delivery policy before signing purchase contract.

Considering that your operating cost with dealer service will be ~~$35 per engine hour or ~~$25 per engine hour if you perform most service yourself, $50 price differentials on a Box Blade purchase are insignificant.

(Operating cost includes some imputed rental cost on implements.)

 

[ovrszd]

Lifting more than 1/3 capacity without TPH counterbalance is hard on the FEL and FEL rubber and mesh hydraulic lines if done routinely.

When using the FEL the rear axle is the critical fulcrum. Loading the rear tires will increase stability and hold the rear down proportional to weight but you cannot add enough weight solely through tire loading to make safe FEL max lifts. Supplemental weight behind the rear axle is needed to unload stress on the Loader, front axle and front axle bearings.

We have to be careful how we say/word responses in regards to this subject.

Your first comment above is simply not true. The FEL is designed to withstand maximum lift capacity without damage. Whether TPH counterbalance is used or not has nothing to do with FEL maximum lift capacity.

Second comment/paragraph. The rear axle is the secondary fulcrum. It only comes into play if counterbalance weight is added behind the rear axle. Until then the front axle is the primary fulcrum and the most critical.

Whether the tractor can safely handle the maximum FEL capacity without counterbalance weight is specific to the tractor/FEL combination in question.

If the FEL is trying to lift a load that raises the rear tires off the ground and Supplemental weight behind the rear axle is added to bring them back into contact with the ground you have actually added load and stress on the FEL.

Supplemental weight behind the rear axle only reduces stress load on the front axle components when it begins to add a secondary fulcrum point at the rear axle and lessen weight on the front axle.

An example. I've loaded the FEL and am trying to lift the load. The rear tires come off the ground. I dismount and start adding weight to the 3ph arms. Every pound I add prior to the rear tires contacting the ground is adding stress to the FEL and front axle components.

I've driven my 95HP FEL tractors hundreds of yards, if not a mile or more with one rear tire off the ground while carrying a heavy FEL load. A Grapple increases the chances of this dramatically.

 

[Baby Grand]

... <SNIP>. ....

So while they have the tractor again, I'm gonna ask them to do a twice over on everything. Connections, fluids, etc. Is there anything else specifically I should have them double check? I feel this is a question I shouldn't have to ask, but here I am...

Have them:
Check all fluid levels.
HST
Front axle
Engine oil
Engine coolant
Torque lug nuts.
Torque FEL attachment bolts.
Check hydraulic relief valve setting.

 

[Boeing]

You will likely find the JD a bit more expensive that either the Kubota or the Kioti. You will also likely be impressed by the features[/B], both standard equipment and optional. It also makes about five more PTO HP than does the 3560.

SDT

I don't want a war either but I would like to state my observations......

When I was looking for a tractor I went to the Deere dealer, 7 miles away. I noted the hood, fenders, fuel flip door ALL PLASTIC. I looked at the "sway bar attach" lugs, as I had had a friend snap one off. The Deere is CAST IRON and PART OF the REAR DIFF HOUSING, if it breaks (and it will) the ENTIRE DIFF HOUSING has to be removed, the DIFFERENTIAL disassembled, RE-assembled in the new housing and reinstalled (BIG BUCKS) .The engine was YANMAR (Japanese) And, of course, it was expensive.

Then, I drove to the Kubota dealer, 21 miles away. found the same size, HP etc in a L-3010. The Hood, fenders, fuel flip door, ALL STEEL. The sway bar lugs are STEEL and part of the ROLL BAR attachment UNDER the rear axle....and easily replaced. AND....it was about $4,000 less than Mr. Deere. Just sayin'