Kubota L4200 Cab **Updated Thread**

[mcd176]

Ok all here are some fresh pics of my project. I constructed the top out of 1x6 pine and used MDF for the roof, I will begin sanding it all down tommorow to blend everything, I am going to use a 1" roundover bit in my router on all of the corners and along the roof, I will then cover the entire outer structure with fiberglass resin and fiberglass mat.

the two rectangular holes are for the radio and switch panel, and the rectagular hole in the back underside of the roof is for a cabin filter, air will be drawn in from the heater that will be mounted in the center of the roof over the windshield.

I will then cover the inside operators area with 1/2 foam covered with vinyl.
I probably wont finish the inside of the cab untill I have the rest of the tractor and cab painted and weather tight, I need to get my machine back togather to finish up some of my other summer projects that the wife wants done!!!

 

[mcd176]

BTW.............. Yes I will be reattaching my factory ROPS!

 

[mcd176]

Heres another update on my cab project, I just finished spraying the cab, frame and axles in Kubota Gray , I will post pics tommorow.

I will hopefully be spraying the hood and fenders tommorow and the roof on monday or tuesday.

-Mike

 

[Johndeere3720]

Your cab is looking great. I cant wait to see a picture of the finished product. Now I want to get a cab. Or make one.

 

[mcd176]

Ok Guys,

Here are some new pics, the first ones are of the painted cab and what I have put back on the machine as of today, notice my ORANGE dash!! I figured I would customize that part of the machine since I had it all apart.

The other pics of the roof are the stages from laying out the fiberglass mat to the trimming of the mat, I must say that the fiberglass work went much smoother than I expected, the mat laid down over the radius's on the sides and corners very nicely, I will let the top of the top dry untill tonight after my sons soccer game and then I will glass in the underside. I will then sand the whole top with 80 grit and then apply skim coat putty, then sand it down, prim and spray it with Kubota Orange, I may paint the underside gray like the factory tops are ?

I will then run all of my wiring, and install the heater before mounting the top.

I have to get some fax's out to the glass companys so I can get my glass ordered.

-Mike

 

[mjncad]

That is shaping up very nicely. I can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[o2batsea]

I think you'll regret building the top with straight sides. With no drip provision it will probably leak. I also think it will be a lot heavier than it has to be. You can make sheets from four layers of wet mat that you allow to cure. lay these out on waxed Formica for a super smooth finished surface. Use a bubble roller to get the whole business thoroughly wet without voids. Cut your parts from this sheet material and tack the pieces in place with hot glue or gorilla tape. Use fiberglass cloth tape to join the sections together. You'll end up with an all fiberglass part that will be much lighter. Alternately, build a mold for the roof section. Paint and sand with several coats of shellac based primer sealer and sand smooth. Wax it up and lay alternating layers of mat and cloth in the mold, rolling each layer as you go. When set, build your radio boxes using the sheet build method. Pop out the whole thing as one piece. If you build it up to be about 3/16ths thick it will give you a good amount of impact resistance.
I dunno. I build boats from glass and resin, and I apply these techniques to other things, like cooler boxes and hatch lids. It's so easy to do it in a way that looks less amateurish. I hope you will give it a try.
Glass and resin is pretty forgiving, even if you foul it up. All you do is sand it down and start over. There are places on the web that can help you design and build a very nice mold, whether it be a male mold or female.

I also think the roof should have some amount of camber to help shed rain and snow. Flat looks funny.

 

[mcd176]

The roof is slanted it is higher at the back than it is in the front, as far as the no drip provision, The roof extends 2" out on the sides, I modeled it after many of the current factory tops.

I do agree by using mdf that the roof is heavier, but I wanted a strong platform and needed the thickness to mount things to the inside, thank you for your input, I may try the idea for the radion box, ect.

-Mike

 

[JohnDeere4300]

Nice job on the cab!

You did a great job on the top, and the dash also looks great!

Looking forward to seeing the glass installed.

Thanks for sharing!

 

[mcd176]

Thanks johndeere4300,

I am expecting my quotes back from the glass guys at the first of the week, I cant wait for the glass either!

-Mike