Buying Advice Kubota M7040 with Loader Is this right for me

[swiss]

I need a sanity check on a purchase. I would be a new tractor owner to go along with my new property. This is weekend type work and not a daily job.

Requrirements and Background
320 Acres of Timber Land
Hilly Terrain

-Five 1/2 acre foot plots expanded, maintained, add new food plots
-3 miles + of old logging roads, extensive work with fixing and installing new water breaks, filling in ruts, creating ditches
-Installation of culverts in roads
-Removing hills, valleys on 1/3 mile power lines, making into food plots
-Creating new roads
-Moving 24"+ x 14 foot oak and pine logs from cut location to trailer and load to take to sawmill approximate 1500 lbs
-Clean up of old timber slash from previous cuttings
-Run PTO based chipper to make mulch

My construction friends all say to go with a compact track loader. While great for digging and hauling logs it is not a tractor so that limits all my foodplot activity. In addition the cost of loader implements is 3x the cost of farm implements.

I have found an 08 7040 for $25,000 with minimal hours on it. Reviewing pricing it seems like a very good purchase. AG Tires, no cab.

My Questions:
1.) Is this the right size tractor?
2.) Can I flatten some hills with the bucket or just forget trying to move anything other than a pile of something?
3.) What implements do I need? I have identified: Bush hog, root grapple, hydraulic back blade, PTO chipper. What is really needed first? I see the back blade as key for fixing the roads
4.) What is the key item I should pay attention to when reviewing the equipment before purchase.

Having spent quite a bit of time reading this site over the past couple of weeks, great site and great information.

Thanks

 

[TripleR]

If Country1 doesn't show up with advice, you might want to contact him as he has done a lot of research on the M7040 and probably will be buying one soon.

We use an M8540 and I believe the M7040 will be a good fit for your needs. You can move dirt with it by digging with the bucket and if you put a good box blade on you can move even more. This will be time consuming however and you might want to opt for renting a dozer or something like that or even better check on getting someone with a dozer to come in and knock some hills down if they are too much for your tractor.

I agree on the skid steer. We have used two of them on our property and found them to be great machines, but certainly no substitute for a good sized tractor.

It looks as though you have a pretty good idea on implements needs. My preference is for a good, heavy box blade over a back blade if you can't afford both, but others will have other opinions.

Good luck.

 

[lucky llama]

As long as it is 4 wheel drive it should work great. I have the 7040 w/cab 4 wheel and have been doing about the same thing you want to. My bush hog is used more than anything esle. I also prefer a box over rear blade. The only thing I have found lacking is the FEL lift capacity. If it dosn't already have it, add a top and tilt to rear.

 

[swiss]

Gentlemen thank you for the responses, I am hearing box blade loud and clear but also hear that they have a learning curve.

I talked to a dealer about TnT and the large Kubota's tractors do not have TnT available on the rear 3 point. This is a CAT2, 3 point. He said that you have to get implements with the hydraulics on them.

Is that a true statement? Or is it not available from kubota but a common aftermarket item?

It is a 4 wheel drive. What can't you lift with the FEL that you wanted to?

Thanks

Steve

 

[art]

Your hitch can be done with after market TNT. They just don't normally sell many tractors in that size range with them.

I feel that for what you are looking at and the job to be done that you are doing well. I also like the box bladeover the back blade for the road ways.

 

[TripleR]

As Art says, TnT can be added without any problem from an aftermarket source, you might check with CCM or maybe someone else can direct you to another source. I have used a tractor with it and it is real nice, but for me the hydraulic top link works fine considering the additional cost. I may get one at some point, but really haven't felt the need for one for my uses.

There is a learning curve with a box blade as on any piece of equipment. For me the hydraulic top-link makes using a box blade much easier and the learning curve much shorter as you can experiment and make adjustments on the go and see the results immediately.

For most applications, the M7040 will lift quite well, it just doesn't have the power of an M9540/8540 which has the bigger loader.

 

[Country1]

Welcome to TBN Swiss!

Looks like you've received very good advice so far. I looked on Tractorhouse and your quoted price on a open cab M7040 w/ LA1153 loader seems about right. KUBOTA M7040, Used KUBOTA M7040, KUBOTA M7040 For Sale At TractorHouse.com - Page 1

I have done a lot of research on the Kubota M40's and most other brands in that size range. I think you've made a fine choice. I settled on the Kubota mainly because of prior owner experience with Kubota and other brands. Also because it's hard to beat Kubota's quality, reliability, ruggedness and value. The M7040 was my choice of the M40's due to it's size. I think it will work fine for you, but with as much land as you have you may want to consider a M8540 or M9540. With an open cab they are not that much bigger than the M7040 and will give you more power for heavy grading and loading. I don't think you necessarily have to go that big, but if you find a deal on one it might be worth considering.

As far as implements, again I agree with the above posts. A rotary cutter is a must for most tractor owners. I've done a lot of research and believe the Woods 6' medium duty BB720 Woods Equipment Company - BrushBull? Extreme Medium-Duty Rotary Cutters to be the perfect cutter for my needs. I think with your wooded land it would suet you well too. I do think you have need for a good heavy duty rear blade with horizontal tilt. I have both rear blade and a box blade (and a land scape rake). They each get used. They both are used for grading, but each excels in different areas. You'll have to experiment with both to find out which works best for what on your land. It's like having a box wrench and an open end wrench. Both will turn a bolt, but each excels in different situations. In general a box blade is great for smoothing and filling in low spots. A rear blade is great for ditching and more aggressive scrapping. I think you need both tools in your toolbox. Adding TnT Tractor Hydraulic toplinks, Top-N-Tilt, Side link cylinders or just a hydro top link to your tractor will make both of those implements more user friendly and allow them to perform better. TnT is not a factory option on any make of tractor that I know of. It's and after market add-on. You do need rear remote hydro outlets (SCV) (2 for TnT or 1 for just hydro top link) and they are factory/dealer Kubota options.

If your doing a lot of log loading you will need a set of pallet forks for your loader.Construction Attachments, X-Treme Duty, Skid Steer, Skidsteer, CAL, Standard Frame, Regular Lift, Pallet Forks 1PF, Universal Skid Steer Quick Attach You can also use them to pick up and move laps and brush from the timbering operation. Another (more expensive) option would be adding a grapple bucket ANBO Manufacturing - Bucket Grapple BG-X or root grapple ANBO Manufacturing - Rock, Root & Tree Grapple GR-SH. You might also consider a 4n1 bucket Bradco 72" Compact Tractor 4-in-1 Multi Purpose Bucket, Model 108198, Universal Skid Steer Quick Attach . You would need what's called a 3rd valve added to your loader (axillary hydro circuit with outlets mounted out on the loader crossarm near bucket and a toggle control on loader control stick) to control the grapple or bucket. I suggest the Kubota kit and it's around $800.

I don't know much about chippers, so sorry I can't help you there much. Are you planning on using the chips or is it to just clean up timber laps? I ask because I would think burning, if legal in your area would be much cheaper and a lot less time consuming. Just a thought.

Hope some of this helps and congratulations on the purchase of your land. I'm truly envious.

 

[swiss]

County1 WOW thanks for the update and very detailed links. I am a member of many different forums and find that they are the best resource for "Real Information" I have to say that out of all the hobbies I am in this happens to have the best group of people that I have seen to date! Must be the diesel fumes

The 7040 was sold yesterday afternoon, snooze you loose I guess. I visited the dealers this morning and started some negotiation on a new. Looks like I will have to move down to a 6040 maybe to keep some assemblance of budget.

I enjoyed reading the safety section of the forum last night. This should be a must read for any new tractor owner.

I will keep everyone posted.

 

[bigbull338]

heres some advice on a new 7040 kubota.i have a friend that bought a new 7040 4x4 ROPS an 1153 loader for $32000 a few months ago.the list price on that tractor was $36,000.an i just bought a MX5100 HST 4x4 ROPS with LA844 loader for $24000.1 more thing freinds tractor was a hydrolic shift.

 

[Country1]

Well the M6040 is basically the same tractor as the 7040. Same engine with a little less HP (de-fueled I guess). Same Hydro flow, so your LA1153 loader will have the same capabilities. Basically the same size tires... As far as I know the only difference (except for HP) is the lack of limited slip front axle on the M6040. You should still be plenty happy with that machine.

A good rule of thumb on pricing new, 10-15% off MSRP is a good deal most find. You might consider contacting Brady Barlow http://www.barlowequipment.com/. He has great prices and delivers tractors all over. I plan on buying from him in a few months. His reputation for customer service is excellent too.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes and I hope you become a regular member here.