OP
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A LITTLE MORE INFORMATION
I know this subject has been practically beat to death on this board, but I'll add a few more comments:
- 90 wt. in early 70's machines -
Back in the day, 90 wt. worked well in the machines because they were gear drive with a dry clutch and the 3 ph worked fine on 90 wt. If, however you installed a loader the 90 wt. really did'nt agree with the loader hydraulics.
UDT is alot more realistic for use with hydraulics. The only drawback with using UDT in the older gear drive machines is the transmission (main shaft) tends to spin longer after the clutch pedal is depressed causing a little bit of gear grinding when shifting. (less drag on the trans shaft and gears due to the lower viscosity of UDT). If I'm servicing an old gear drive without an added on hydraulic system (loader, front blade, aux hydraulics etc.) I use 90 wt. When servicing the latter, I use UDT. The only time you grind gears while using UDT is initially. If you hold the clutch in for a 10 count before the initial engagement, most of the time you'll get a clean shift.
- UDT VS. SUPER UDT-
First a little backround to show that Kubota is'nt the only one.
Before coming to my current dealership I worked at a John Deere dealer. Initially it was 90 wt. (same deal) Then it was universal tractor fluid (UTF) Then JD decided that their newer
machines would require Hygaurd (JD brand) after using Hygaurd for a few years it was determined that in colder climates "Low viscosity Hygaurd" was the way to go, which was much more expensive (double the price) than Hygaurd. Of course JD says if you're not using our fluid your warranty is void. (sound familiar so far?). Back to Kubotaland. A few years ago I was told by a Kubota tech rep. that use of regular UDT in everything other than GST tractors was O.K.
Even though tech data and owners manuals stated otherwise in some cases (all cases on the latest stuff). The rational for super in the GST's? In cold temps. on initial start up and engagement of the GST the clutch would'nt lock up for approx. 15 to 45 seconds with regular UDT. But with super you could crank and go.
Final thoughts:
In my shop UDT is $7.00 a gallon and super is $14.00 a gallon and when your changing a 10 gallon reservoir the money adds up quick. So is it a marketing scam copied from Deere? I don't know, I'm not an engineer. I have seen the difference in performance between the two in cold temps. GST's do take longer with UDT, HST's don't return to neutral as fast when cold. (not that HST pedal return performance is that good to begin with, with kubotas, but that's a whole nother can of worms). As far as getting different and conflicting answers from different dealers? I think the right answer is: If you're still under warranty use what Kubota tells you to use. (occasionally the Kubota rep asks for an oil sample)
After that I think the main concern is make sure your machine is warmed up good before you really start workin' it.
I know this subject has been practically beat to death on this board, but I'll add a few more comments:
- 90 wt. in early 70's machines -
Back in the day, 90 wt. worked well in the machines because they were gear drive with a dry clutch and the 3 ph worked fine on 90 wt. If, however you installed a loader the 90 wt. really did'nt agree with the loader hydraulics.
UDT is alot more realistic for use with hydraulics. The only drawback with using UDT in the older gear drive machines is the transmission (main shaft) tends to spin longer after the clutch pedal is depressed causing a little bit of gear grinding when shifting. (less drag on the trans shaft and gears due to the lower viscosity of UDT). If I'm servicing an old gear drive without an added on hydraulic system (loader, front blade, aux hydraulics etc.) I use 90 wt. When servicing the latter, I use UDT. The only time you grind gears while using UDT is initially. If you hold the clutch in for a 10 count before the initial engagement, most of the time you'll get a clean shift.
- UDT VS. SUPER UDT-
First a little backround to show that Kubota is'nt the only one.
Before coming to my current dealership I worked at a John Deere dealer. Initially it was 90 wt. (same deal) Then it was universal tractor fluid (UTF) Then JD decided that their newer
machines would require Hygaurd (JD brand) after using Hygaurd for a few years it was determined that in colder climates "Low viscosity Hygaurd" was the way to go, which was much more expensive (double the price) than Hygaurd. Of course JD says if you're not using our fluid your warranty is void. (sound familiar so far?). Back to Kubotaland. A few years ago I was told by a Kubota tech rep. that use of regular UDT in everything other than GST tractors was O.K.
Even though tech data and owners manuals stated otherwise in some cases (all cases on the latest stuff). The rational for super in the GST's? In cold temps. on initial start up and engagement of the GST the clutch would'nt lock up for approx. 15 to 45 seconds with regular UDT. But with super you could crank and go.
Final thoughts:
In my shop UDT is $7.00 a gallon and super is $14.00 a gallon and when your changing a 10 gallon reservoir the money adds up quick. So is it a marketing scam copied from Deere? I don't know, I'm not an engineer. I have seen the difference in performance between the two in cold temps. GST's do take longer with UDT, HST's don't return to neutral as fast when cold. (not that HST pedal return performance is that good to begin with, with kubotas, but that's a whole nother can of worms). As far as getting different and conflicting answers from different dealers? I think the right answer is: If you're still under warranty use what Kubota tells you to use. (occasionally the Kubota rep asks for an oil sample)
After that I think the main concern is make sure your machine is warmed up good before you really start workin' it.
