Kubota or mahindra

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

I dont think RichnMo ever said what his leak down rate was. Therefore I have no idea and cannot form an opinion whether or not I would consider it acceptable or whether its a gross overreaction by a customer who thinks a loader should stay up indefinitely and never drop even an inch.

It's true he didn't and I agree that information is pertinent. I welcome him to do that.

 

[LD1]

It's true he didn't and I agree that information is pertinent. I welcome him to do that.

Im curious myself.

I mean...if this thing was dropping like a foot every 20 min or so and you constantly had to bump it up while working...and deere left you hanging....yea thats a legit gripe.

But ...coming on here to try and give deere a black eye, because it drifts down at 1.5" per hour, and you just want something for nothing or have other regrets....thats a whole different story.

Sadly we dont know which story is closer to the truth

 

[CoryB]

I have one neighbor with a Kubota and one with a Mahindra. I don’t know the particular models of either.

The Kubota is always around and doing various tasks. I rarely see the Mahindra unless it is on the back of a tow truck going to be repaired. Again.

Now, to be fair, the Mahindra owner is known to be rough on his equipment but I have to think there is more to it than just the way he treats it.

 

[rScotty]

I have one neighbor with a Kubota and one with a Mahindra. I don’t know the particular models of either.

The Kubota is always around and doing various tasks. I rarely see the Mahindra unless it is on the back of a tow truck going to be repaired. Again.

Now, to be fair, the Mahindra owner is known to be rough on his equipment but I have to think there is more to it than just the way he treats it.

Yes, there are very different philosophies on how to buy and use tools. It would be boring if there were not.

 

[RichnMo]

Thanks for your reply about this and I am sorry to hear about your experience. When companies like Deere sell a product that is inferior and underperforms, saying the performance is normal is their go to answer to weasel out. This is not the first time I have heard a story like this on TBN and this is why I strongly believe a product needs to be demoed before purchase.

Your absolutely correct, unfortunately most dealers don't have a unit to demo other than purchasing it.

 

[jyoutz]

And then pay $1500-$3000 more for your tractor 0% is a scam..

$1500 over 84 months = $17.85/month. I think I can handle that.

 

[coobie]

$1500 over 84 months = $17.85/month. I think I can handle that.

My old hillbilly buddy used to say don't care how much it costs just tell me the monthly payment.

 

[LD1]

My old hillbilly buddy used to say don't care how much it costs just tell me the monthly payment.

That was always my attitude when car shopping.

I dont care what you "show" on paper you are giving me for my trade. I dont care what you "show" on paper the selling price to be. I dont care what you "show" on paper the interest rate to be.

At the end of the day......monthy payment x number of months (plus a down payment if applicable) is what I am going to be paying. THATS what I care about. You can fudge the numbers on paper all you want to try and "sell" me on what a good deal you are making. But thats all I care about...what I am :actually" paying

 

[RichnMo]

Everyones opinion on how much bleeding down is acceptable is different.

The ONLY one that matters is what the valve manufacture specifies.

There are NO seals in the spools on a hydraulic valve. IT is just very tight tolerance metal on metal. So they ALL will leak down eventually. But is it a foot a week or a foot a minute?

What a valve manufacture rates it at is gonna be a given amount of fluid (in CC's or ounces) over a given time at a given pressure.
With some math....based on cylinder sizes and oil volume in said cylinder....you can convert that to loader movement in which is deem acceptable over a period of time.

JD service manuals probably have that information spelled out. But if it were mine, I would have specifically asked what is "acceptable". Then actually take a measurement on YOUR machine and see if it is within their allowable spec or not.

You made NO mention at all how fast your loader would "creep" down. Without knowing that its hard for me to form an opinion on your situation

Well put it this way, the dealer told me to never park under the loader bucket as they had another gentleman's bucket that went through his windshield by the next day ! And minutes after shutting off my tractor with the bucket up you could hear a constant creaking sound as it began to leak down.

 

[paulfun9]

That was always my attitude when car shopping.

I dont care what you "show" on paper you are giving me for my trade. I dont care what you "show" on paper the selling price to be. I dont care what you "show" on paper the interest rate to be.

At the end of the day......monthy payment x number of months (plus a down payment if applicable) is what I am going to be paying. THATS what I care about. You can fudge the numbers on paper all you want to try and "sell" me on what a good deal you are making. But thats all I care about...what I am :actually" paying

My observations and experiance your approach is why so many pay too much for things.
I don’t know one person that’s gotten a good deal with this type of thinking. My brother in law who was a car salesman is here and when I read your post to him, his reaction was “ a salesman’s dream” “ wish All my customers would have had that attitude”
That speaks volumes and tell my why my monthly payments for the few things I financed were alway much lower than those around me!

 

[LD1]

My observations and experiance your approach is why so many pay too much for things.
I don’t know one person that’s gotten a good deal with this type of thinking. My brother in law who was a car salesman is here and when I read your post to him, his reaction was “ a salesman’s dream” “ wish All my customers would have had that attitude”
That speaks volumes and tell my why my monthly payments for the few things I financed were alway much lower than those around me!

IF I ever had to buy anything from your brother, I can assure you he wouldnt think of me as a "salesmans dream".

Anymore, I dont finance....so it makes it easy.

Back when I financed.....I went in knowing what I could get for an interest rate....and what I though said vehicle was worth.

For example.....lets say I was looking at something that was listed for $23k, but I only wanted to pay $21k OTD, and knew the best I could do was 5.99% interest on my own. Thats a $406/mo payment over 60 months.

So when I walk into said dealer and let the salesman do their thing.....they likely come back with a ~$24k OTD price at whatever interest rate they can get for me. So likely a $450-$460 payment.

Rather than bicker back and forth on selling price, dealer fees, interest, and have to try and compute what my payment thus would be.....I simply say....Gotta be $400/mo or less for 60 months. Yes or No question. Either you can do it or you cant.

This gives them some room to fudge their numbers however they want, and maybe even pressure for a better interest rate if we are close. Because at the end of the day.....The monthly payment x the term is what I ACTUALLY will pay. So why does it make sense to negotiate ONLY the selling price. When I actually have to pay selling price, interest, dealer and doc fees, taxes, tags, etc etc etc. Negotiate just a good selling price and they have no interest in working with you to maybe reduce some dealer fees, try for a better interest rate, etc.

I have walked out on $20k purchases over less than $2/month before. The dumbfounded look on everyones face is priceless. I give you a price I am willing to pay. To me its black and white, you can either do it or you cannot.

 

[4570Man]

IF I ever had to buy anything from your brother, I can assure you he wouldnt think of me as a "salesmans dream".

Anymore, I dont finance....so it makes it easy.

Back when I financed.....I went in knowing what I could get for an interest rate....and what I though said vehicle was worth.

For example.....lets say I was looking at something that was listed for $23k, but I only wanted to pay $21k OTD, and knew the best I could do was 5.99% interest on my own. Thats a $406/mo payment over 60 months.

So when I walk into said dealer and let the salesman do their thing.....they likely come back with a ~$24k OTD price at whatever interest rate they can get for me. So likely a $450-$460 payment.

Rather than bicker back and forth on selling price, dealer fees, interest, and have to try and compute what my payment thus would be.....I simply say....Gotta be $400/mo or less for 60 months. Yes or No question. Either you can do it or you cant.

This gives them some room to fudge their numbers however they want, and maybe even pressure for a better interest rate if we are close. Because at the end of the day.....The monthly payment x the term is what I ACTUALLY will pay. So why does it make sense to negotiate ONLY the selling price. When I actually have to pay selling price, interest, dealer and doc fees, taxes, tags, etc etc etc. Negotiate just a good selling price and they have no interest in working with you to maybe reduce some dealer fees, try for a better interest rate, etc.

I have walked out on $20k purchases over less than $2/month before. The dumbfounded look on everyones face is priceless. I give you a price I am willing to pay. To me its black and white, you can either do it or you cannot.

I’ve never financed a vehicle and I never plan on doing so. If you can’t write a check for it lower your standards until you can. I don’t see the appeal to a high dollar truck anyway. I could buy one if I wanted to but a cheap one does the same job and I can invest the difference in something that makes money vs loosing money.

 

[LD1]

I’ve never financed a vehicle and I never plan on doing so. If you can’t write a check for it lower your standards until you can. I don’t see the appeal to a high dollar truck anyway. I could buy one if I wanted to but a cheap one does the same job and I can invest the difference in something that makes money vs loosing money.

Im not too proud to say I have never financed.

Sometimes a 10-15k financed vehicle is better in the long run than a $500 beater with a heater.

I didn't graduate with enough money in my account to pay cash for a vehicle, get married,and put a down payment on a house.

So financing a vehicle so I could have something reliable for me or the wife rather than have to have a second job in the evenings as a auto mechanic constantly working on the beater....sometimes just makes sense.

 

[4570Man]

I don’t disagree that sometimes you’d be better off financing a decent vehicle but that’s not what most people financing vehicles are doing. It doesn’t cost 15 grand to get a dependable vehicle either.

 

[paulfun9]

IF I ever had to buy anything from your brother, I can assure you he wouldnt think of me as a "salesmans dream".

Anymore, I dont finance....so it makes it easy.

Back when I financed.....I went in knowing what I could get for an interest rate....and what I though said vehicle was worth.

For example.....lets say I was looking at something that was listed for $23k, but I only wanted to pay $21k OTD, and knew the best I could do was 5.99% interest on my own. Thats a $406/mo payment over 60 months.

So when I walk into said dealer and let the salesman do their thing.....they likely come back with a ~$24k OTD price at whatever interest rate they can get for me. So likely a $450-$460 payment.

Rather than bicker back and forth on selling price, dealer fees, interest, and have to try and compute what my payment thus would be.....I simply say....Gotta be $400/mo or less for 60 months. Yes or No question. Either you can do it or you cant.

This gives them some room to fudge their numbers however they want, and maybe even pressure for a better interest rate if we are close. Because at the end of the day.....The monthly payment x the term is what I ACTUALLY will pay. So why does it make sense to negotiate ONLY the selling price. When I actually have to pay selling price, interest, dealer and doc fees, taxes, tags, etc etc etc. Negotiate just a good selling price and they have no interest in working with you to maybe reduce some dealer fees, try for a better interest rate, etc.

I have walked out on $20k purchases over less than $2/month before. The dumbfounded look on everyones face is priceless. I give you a price I am willing to pay. To me its black and white, you can either do it or you cannot.

Glad to hear your not one of the suckers as he describes them!
But if you read your other post it could be misunderstood easily.

By the way the biggest difference I ever caved at was was $1.58 from what I intended to pay and have walked away at 2 dollar differences also.

 

[LD1]

Glad to hear your not one of the suckers as he describes them!
But if you read your other post it could be misunderstood easily.

By the way the biggest difference I ever caved at was was $1.58 from what I intended to pay and have walked away at 2 dollar differences also.

It's all about the fact that I want to compare what I am ACTUALLY paying. Not some number the salesman writes on paper to make me feel good....all the while hiding other costs in there to get the bottom like HE wants.

Obviously comparing used vehicles is hard because there are no two used vehicles alike.

But let's say you are shopping for a $30k vehicle....and you bring what you feel is a 10k trade to the table.

Two dealers may approach this differently.

Through barters one may keep raising the amount they will give you on trade. Maybe offer you $12k to make you feel good, while selling their vehicle at List of 30k.

Another dealer may only offer you 8k for trade but discount their vehicle to $24k.

They may have different delivery and doc fees. Or is one giving you an OTD price and the other gonna tack the tax on at the last moment.

Comparing monthly payment s takes all that into account.

And dealers have multiple avenues for lending. If you are only bartering on sales price....they have no incentive to make a few extra phonecalls to maybe save a percent or two.

About 3-4 years ago I traded in my 05 ram for a newer '16.

New one was listed for 34k and my trade, I felt was worth about $12k. Difference of 22k plus tax. I offered $20k cash plus trade OTD.


They came back and offered 12k for trade and kept theirs at $34k Add tax and other BS we were about $25k difference.

Through continued bartering they were eventually gonna give me $15k for trade but still sell me theirs for $34k but with tax we were still a few hundred over my $20k difference I was willing to pay.

Before I walked out....I asked the finance guy why they kept increasing my trade value rather than discount the truck. See, you pay tax on sales price of the new truck but get no credit for trade. I said why can't you sell me your truck for $27k (7k discount) and also give me 7k less for trade (down to 8k). Should make no difference to the dealer.....the only party involved getting less of my money is uncle Sam. They were dumbfounded that no one ever questioned that before. So through some creative rearranging of numbers...dealer got what they wanted, I got what I wanted, and uncle same got a few hundred less.

But again...it all comes down to what I am actually paying. I know what I am willing to spend....whether it be cash price or finance. And as such, I prefer not to negotiate on just a one of many parts that encompasses what I will have to pay for said vehicle. I like to include all aspects of it....and however the dealer wants to get creative with their number fudging to hit my target is none of my concern. If they cannot hit my target, I simply walk out

 

[Torvy]

I think the confusion was when you said you focus on the payment. That is what salespeople crave. They just extend the terms and people pay a ton more because their payments are 'low'.

OTD price is what you want. That is what you actually pay. If the financing is not included, it is not really the OTD price.

 

[LD1]

I think the confusion was when you said you focus on the payment. That is what salespeople crave. They just extend the terms and people pay a ton more because their payments are 'low'.

OTD price is what you want. That is what you actually pay. If the financing is not included, it is not really the OTD price.

I never said I focus on the payment (only). Thats why I specifically said At the end of the day......monthy payment x number of months (plus a down payment if applicable) is what I am going to be paying. THATS what I care about.

I care about what I ACTUALLY pay over the term. I wont apologize if others chose to only read "monthly payment" and then nothing after that and got confused about the message I was trying to convey. To me, it was crystal clear.

 

[rScotty]

I don’t disagree that sometimes you’d be better off financing a decent vehicle but that’s not what most people financing vehicles are doing. It doesn’t cost 15 grand to get a dependable vehicle either.

It's fun to talk about finances even when what we are batting back and forth are sort of small financial differences compared to either doing it or not.

But when it comes time to sign up & buy in the real world, I've noticed that those who do best at buying that car, house or tractor seem to be the ones who spend more time understanding how things work and less time trying to shave finance percentages.

It seems the more we understand about how things work, the better we are at buying them.

 

[paulfun9]

Small differences?

Comparing my payment on the last financed Truck I purchased to those I knew and others I met back then the difference was staggering! We are talking thousands not hundreds.