Kubota RTV Facts/Fiction...

[NCRoadRunner]

Just in case any of you out there are interested in the documentation for the Kubota 'options' we have added to ours, you can view the install directions below. If we add more, we'll add to the list. If you have one that is not here, email a copy to us, and we'll add it to the list. Please be sure to add your 2 cents about your install. One thing I can say for each of these add-ons, they are very well engineered, and are easy to install.

Lower Windshield Kit (V4315)] - this is simply an assembly process, it 'straps' onto the roll bars when you want it. We will not be using it till the weather gets cool.
Glass Windshield Kit (V4316) - If you have the top installed, you'll have to remove the 4 'U' bolts that attach the top to the roll bars, and 'pitch' it up slightly to install the windshield bracket. We were concerned that having the glass installed, since it is not easily removed, that on a hot day the windshield would diminish the airflow too much - well, it's like a wind tunnel. The air comes up over the hood, and blasts in. When you put the lower part in, there is virtually no air coming through - which will be great in the winter.... Also when driving in the rain, if you stay at lower speeds, the rain does not come in the front at all, floor it and you'll get wet! The install will take about 30 minutes.
Silver Front Guard Kit (V4325) - If you have a winch installed, you may have to remove the fairlead, or remove the 'hooks' that are on the back of the guard (they simply support it on the front rail to help hold it in place while you are installing the 4 mounting bolts). Without the winch, the install will be 10 minutes or less; add another 20 minutes if you have to remove/replace the fairlead.
Speedometer Kit (V4333) - The worst part of this install is removing the part in the dash where the speedometer goes. They suggest a holesaw, but I put a fine tooth sabre saw blade in a handle I made from a 3/4" dowel. There is a small hole at the top and bottom of the dash cutout to get you started. The documentation indicates that the speedometer is 'not compatable' with the winch, but all you have to do is add a pigtail from the speedometer 'tri-connector', the yellow with red tracer wire, and use that with the winch as the switched lead. I tried to remove the 'sender' plug without removing the air cleaner, but the retaining bolt was very tight. It was much easier after I remove/replaced the air cleaner. This install took me about 45 minutes (some screwing around time with the air-cleaner).
Rear Utility Screen Net Kit (V4350) - If you have the top installed, you'll have to remove the 2 'U' bolts that attach the top to the roll bars, and 'pitch' it up slightly to install the 3 screen brackets. The install will take about 30 minutes.

Cheers,
Henri

 

[timswi]

Nice detailed observations and instructions Henri...All true.

 

[llmford54]

First off, just want to say hi to everyone on here as I am new, seems to be a very friendly forum and I like it. I have noticed since I started looking on this forum a lot of wrong information and a lot of grey area for a lot of people and wanted to try to help and use my knowledge to help some others and better their experiences with the product. I am going to put together a list of things about the rtvs that seem to be common issues that do not need to be. If a dealer or a tech really cares about the problem, you would not have any of these issues. So here they are:

rtv 500:
Power on these units is not nearly as bad as many have been told or experienced. No, they are not a rhino or a razer, but they will work hard and have a lot of torque. All of the power issues that I have ran into so far have been easy to fix with rpm and hst servo adjustments.
Shifting should also not be an issue. When stopped to shift, with the brake pedal firmly pressed and fully stopped, the transmission will shift smooth and easy. Also, the hst should never bog the motor out, and dont ever let ANYONE tell you that ANY rtv you need to back out of the pedal to get up hills and keep from bogging out the motor. This is plain and outright wrong, false and ignorant. The hst on ALL the rtv's is designed to keep the motor in its powerband and act much like a belt drive cvt, not a tractor hst. If it bogs out, get it adjusted, or ask for some help on adjusting it, I will gladly help.

rvt 900, 1100, 1140:
Power on these is the same issue as the 500, sometimes rpm is to low, but mostly it is just the hst servo needs some tweaking. Like I said above, if it doesnt act as designed, have it adjusted. Same servo on all the rtv hst's to adjust how aggressive the trans is.
Shifting is aso not an issue if operated correctly and the hst, cables and dump valve are adjusted properly. If a unit does not shift when completely stopped with the foot firmly on the brake pedal after a 2 second count, something needs adjustment or repair. Most of the time a little patience and some knowledge on how to shift properly makes all the difference.
Holdback being too agressive can also be tailored to individual persons. I always have customers test them when they buy a unit and adjust it according to how much retarding power they want. It is a quick and easy adjustment again, if you know what you are doing, and makes the machine a lot more enjoyable to use for some.


I want more than anything to have everyone know that these machines are much better than the reputation that they have been given, and that some simple and easy fixes (mostly free) can make them everything that they were promised and designed to be. If there is anything that I have missed, let it be added, and others opinions are always welcome to me. I will try my best to help anyone with a problem on these machines, just ask.

Thanks, Matt

Matt I have a Kubota 500 and was wondering just how many turns that I can go out on the HST screw. I have gone out 6.5 turns and although it did help some it will still lockup and bog the engine out on a hill if you don't get out of the gas and that doesn't seem right. I usually go a couple at a time and then make a test run. Your help is appreciated and I have enjoyed reading the forums that you have put in here.

 

[flynad]

I am a new member, and also new to posting on a forum. I have a 2008 Kubota RTV 500 that I bought used a couple of months ago via Ebay from a seller in Shreveport, Louisiana. It has 160 hours on it. I felt comfortable buying a Kubota because of the good performance and quality of my BX-24 I have had for 3 years. I am beginning to think I was wrong.

I test drove the RTV 500 at the time of buying on a short run around the parking lot and it ran fine. I trailered it back to my home in Missouri and on the way I filled the gas tank with 91 octane. Upon arriving home I unloaded, and then took my first drive along the trail on my 55 acres. Probably less than a quarter of a mile, it sputtered and died. I got it started again by letting it sit with the ignition on (and fuel pump running) and pumping the accelerator to get gas to it once it started. I kept it running feathering the gas pedal every time it appeared to not be getting gas and on the verge of the engine stopping.

I owned a Polaris X2 500 that had acted similar with water in the gas tank. I siphoned the gas from the tank of the RTV, thinking there was water in the bottom of the tank. I checked all the gas I extracted in a glass jar for water and/or debris, found little water, and refilled the tank. Same result -- the RTV will run awhile, then (often seems to be on a hill or curve) will sputter and die. I am always able to restart as explained above.

I took it to my local Kubota dealer and spent $120 for nothing. They pulled the fuel pump and said there was debris in the filter and cleaned it, and added Seafoam. They said it would run strong, good power, but said it did still sputter a couple of times.

After getting it home, I have had the same problem. The lower the tank gets on gas, the better it runs. However, when I add gas, it is back to frequent sputtering, engine stalling -- appears to not be getting gas when it occurs.

I am wondering if the fuel cap is having any effect -- when it is removed and then replaced after adding gas? Every bit of gasoline I have put in the tank has been examined in my glass jar before putting in the tank. I had used 91 octane, but on my last try added 89 to see if it would make a difference. It did not.

I really like the RTV 500 and had wanted one for a long time, mainly on the strength of Kubota quality. At this point I am hesitant to drive it any farther than my driveway because I cannot trust it to run. It seems there must be a simple solution, but I am out of ideas. I would appreciate any help or insight you can give me!

 

[SpudHauler]

From what you describe, it sounds like the gas cap is plugged and not allowing air in. Usually it is a closed system and is vented back to the air filter. Not sure and have not seen the 500 model setup. Anyway try looking for the venting system of the gas tank and look for kinked lines or blocked lines. Or if it is the gas cap try borrowing one as a test.

You really should start your own thread for a new topic like this. Makes it easier to find for others with the same problem.

Good luck.

 

[flynad]

Thanks for your insight -- I'll do some checking on those vent issues!

Also appreciate suggestion on new thread.

 

[tallur4me]

I looked at several UTV's and own an older JD TX model gator that has over 2,000 hours on it and has been used hard and is sill in use. I just bought a 900 utility camo today from the kubota dealer. Drove several of the newer rigs and did a lot of research before buying. The machine looks rugged. Wish there was a little more leg room. I will use the UTV for hauling farm items of what ever size it will haul including hay and wood as well as pulling my welding trailer around the farm.
The dealer said to change all fluids in the tranny and engine at 50 hours. Any comments?

 

[timswi]

I looked at several UTV's and own an older JD TX model gator that has over 2,000 hours on it and has been used hard and is sill in use. I just bought a 900 utility camo today from the kubota dealer. Drove several of the newer rigs and did a lot of research before buying. The machine looks rugged. Wish there was a little more leg room. I will use the UTV for hauling farm items of what ever size it will haul including hay and wood as well as pulling my welding trailer around the farm.
The dealer said to change all fluids in the tranny and engine at 50 hours. Any comments?

You'll like it for the purposes that you stated....I use mine for general property use and puttering around. I'm very happy with my 1100.

The manual gives couple of hundred hours before the HST fluid needs changed. I will probably change mine at 50 just to be on the safe side. I believe that they recommend changing the HST filters only at 50hrs.

You want to change the engine oil and filter in any case. Check the condition of the air filter as well, that picks up alot of dust given it's location.

 

[forester2]

I changed my fluid @ 50 (be sure to remove mesh screen in filler before adding fluid). Did not not change front axle and knuckle joints but I will.

 

[SpudHauler]

Forester2,
Is that the screen mesh in the HST filler you are talking about.

If it is you pull the whole thing out, not just the top off.