Leejohn
Elite Member
I was ?ing the rod size for a cat2 tractor. That only looks to be 1".
Kubota Top-N-Tilt concerns
- Thread starter mopardude318
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ovrszd
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With 3 valves, you should have 1 SCV and 2 float valves.
The ability to float is a secondary issue. Most importantly is that an SCV valve doesn't like to have delicate, small movement. It wants to be detented into position and when end of stroke is reached, Self Cancel.
A float valve can be "feathered" to get precise and delicate movement. The valve is designed for that type of use. The ability to "float" is an additional function that comes with the design.
I have the Kubota setup on my M9540. Bottom valve is the original SCV valve. I use it for tasks such as raising/lowering my tandem disc. All I'm concerned about it completely up, completely down. Works great. Don't have to pay attention to implement. Just detent the lever either direction and forget about it.
The middle and top valve are float valves. My top link is on the second (middle) lever. My side link is on the far right lever. Easy to mentally use. I've never used float on the side link. I rarely use float on the top link. Today was one of those days. Brush cutting with mounted cutter. Use the top link to pick up the cutter to turn around. Drop it into float for cutting.
I would go back to the dealer with a firm attitude. I'd request the two valves be changed out to float valves. If reluctance is the response, I'd suggest we get the Kubota rep on the phone and discuss this. The Kubota rep is going to immediately say you should have gotten two float valves.
As to your cylinder length issue, not enough information for me to make a logical determination.
As to moving your 3pt arms to the rearward hole at the BB. They won't fit in there. The arms will hit the bracketry of the BB.
The ability to float is a secondary issue. Most importantly is that an SCV valve doesn't like to have delicate, small movement. It wants to be detented into position and when end of stroke is reached, Self Cancel.
A float valve can be "feathered" to get precise and delicate movement. The valve is designed for that type of use. The ability to "float" is an additional function that comes with the design.
I have the Kubota setup on my M9540. Bottom valve is the original SCV valve. I use it for tasks such as raising/lowering my tandem disc. All I'm concerned about it completely up, completely down. Works great. Don't have to pay attention to implement. Just detent the lever either direction and forget about it.
The middle and top valve are float valves. My top link is on the second (middle) lever. My side link is on the far right lever. Easy to mentally use. I've never used float on the side link. I rarely use float on the top link. Today was one of those days. Brush cutting with mounted cutter. Use the top link to pick up the cutter to turn around. Drop it into float for cutting.
I would go back to the dealer with a firm attitude. I'd request the two valves be changed out to float valves. If reluctance is the response, I'd suggest we get the Kubota rep on the phone and discuss this. The Kubota rep is going to immediately say you should have gotten two float valves.
As to your cylinder length issue, not enough information for me to make a logical determination.
As to moving your 3pt arms to the rearward hole at the BB. They won't fit in there. The arms will hit the bracketry of the BB.
MtnViewRanch
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There are several manufacturers that use 1 1/8" dia rods no matter what diameter cylinder is used.
Fallon
Super Member
Run the stock manual top link all the way in & all the out. Those measurements should match more or less for the hydraulic cylinder.
The cylinders (3 tries) from the dealer were leaky mis-sized pieces of crap. My FitRite toplink came in Wednesday & the sidelink came in yesterday. Toplink is working great in the 2 minutes of testing & getting the air out I did. Might get the sidelink in tonight.
The 3 rear remotes on my new L4060 aren't great. Levers are sloppy & hard to engage. I couldnt even find float last night (I ordered 2 float & double acting). Not sure if float is on 1 & 3 while my toplink is currently on 2. Need to fiddle with it, but Kubota isn't known for high quality rear valves the past few years.
The cylinders (3 tries) from the dealer were leaky mis-sized pieces of crap. My FitRite toplink came in Wednesday & the sidelink came in yesterday. Toplink is working great in the 2 minutes of testing & getting the air out I did. Might get the sidelink in tonight.
The 3 rear remotes on my new L4060 aren't great. Levers are sloppy & hard to engage. I couldnt even find float last night (I ordered 2 float & double acting). Not sure if float is on 1 & 3 while my toplink is currently on 2. Need to fiddle with it, but Kubota isn't known for high quality rear valves the past few years.
OP
mopardude318
Platinum Member
Don't know if these measurements will help. Top cylinder body measures out to about 12.5"
IMG_1566[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr
Top link fully extended center to center is 28"
IMG_1568[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr
IMG_1569[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr
Tilt cylinder body about is about 9"
IMG_1567[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr
And it looks like 21" C to C extended
IMG_1570[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr
And 17" C to C fully retracted.
IMG_1572[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr
IMG_1566[1] by James Paradiso, on FlickrTop link fully extended center to center is 28"
IMG_1568[1] by James Paradiso, on FlickrIMG_1569[1] by James Paradiso, on FlickrTilt cylinder body about is about 9"
IMG_1567[1] by James Paradiso, on FlickrAnd it looks like 21" C to C extended
IMG_1570[1] by James Paradiso, on FlickrAnd 17" C to C fully retracted.
IMG_1572[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr
OP
mopardude318
Platinum Member
so would you say it looks like both my cylinders are too short?
roadhunter
Elite Member
I have a similar blade with hydraulic rippers and factory T&T on my JCB. I use this all the time for snow removal and driveway grading and my factory T&T does not have float. I simply lengthen the top link and put the 3 point in float to smooth out gravel roads in forward and opposite in reverse as I shorten up the top link. I can see implements that having a floating top link would be nice but the box blade works fine without IMO.
Here is a factory T&T setup. Cylinders are over 1-1/2".
Here is a factory T&T setup. Cylinders are over 1-1/2".
Last edited:
MtnViewRanch
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Yes, in my opinion both of your cylinders are on the short side. Unfortunately this is a common occurrence.
OP
mopardude318
Platinum Member
You are correct, I have found that the cylinders provided are from Gearmore.
A little more info my side link has a 4 inch stroke...2 inches too short. My top link has a stroke of 8 inches...I guess one little inch will make that big a difference? I feel I should go with a ram that has a working length of 10 inches...
Either way, my salesman came out yesterday and took some measurements & part numbers and said he'd get me the correct ones...I'd rather give these ones back and get what I paid, and get em from you. But, if they replace them with the correct units guess I'll be good that way too. :thumbsup:
I appreciate everyone's input. Thank you.
MtnViewRanch
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You tell me what you would rather have?
A 1" longer (9"stroke) gets you a working length of 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" from me. A 10" working length gets you a 21 1/4"- 31 1/4" working length. Either one, makes no difference to me. Most guys like to be able to pick up the implement higher when in rough terrain of loading on a trailer.
A complete kit for your tractor would be $1085 + tax and shipping costs. 3" cylinders with 1 1/2" dia rods.
At over 100 orders currently in line, lead times are 14-16 weeks, I'm a busy guy. :thumbsup:
This is an older picture, new units are a bit more refined.
A 1" longer (9"stroke) gets you a working length of 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" from me. A 10" working length gets you a 21 1/4"- 31 1/4" working length. Either one, makes no difference to me. Most guys like to be able to pick up the implement higher when in rough terrain of loading on a trailer.
A complete kit for your tractor would be $1085 + tax and shipping costs. 3" cylinders with 1 1/2" dia rods.
At over 100 orders currently in line, lead times are 14-16 weeks, I'm a busy guy. :thumbsup:
This is an older picture, new units are a bit more refined.
