If you are concerned about hills and stability, then be sure to step back a little and take a look at the footprint of the tractor (with dealer with you). He should talk with you about the wheel rim options and ballast options. We have hills. I was concerned about that. I selected a wide footprint. That and ballast may help a lot. Also. unless you are only needed to mow acreage, I would be careful buying a tractor HP based on having only 2 acres. especially doing rock - loader - road maintaining work. Best wishes, Larry
L3301 or similar
- Thread starter dave9876
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tractortrash
New member
I’d hire a farmer or excavator to prep and grade the soil. Might apply herbicide prior to disking, harrowing, etc. Test the soil and apply lime, fertilizer, etc based on the chemistry. Would use my resources to maintain the lawn after its seeded if this is a one time event.
pokey1416
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2020
- Messages
- 284
- Tractor
- Kubota L4060HSTC, Kubota ZT
I’m ok with HST whine - it’s less than the wife’s banter
. I run the 7’ LPGS and the 6’ tiller at full throttle. Vary my speed with that dreaded treadle or I set cruise control.
. I run the 7’ LPGS and the 6’ tiller at full throttle. Vary my speed with that dreaded treadle or I set cruise control.azbinder
Gold Member
In regards to a forward tine vs. rear tine, the fwd style has a tendency to "push" the tractor and skip or bounce over the ground, even with an HST tractor. I have found the rear tine style leaves a smoother bed, especially if you slow your forward ground speed just a bit.
I have had both and I would never go back to a gear drive. Stand on it and steer works for me.
I use the cruise control when I am tilling. Set it at 2 or 3 mph and let it rip until you reach the end of the row.
You will not need the pulverizer if you get the tiller. If you take your time and don't mind making multiple passes the tiller will work the soil up to as fine as you want it.
As for HP and size; almost any CUT will do what you want to, it's just a matter of how much time you have. Time versus money, which is the equation we all have to work with, means you need to decide how much money to put into the purchase to lower the time spent doing the work you want to do since a smaller tractor will be slower than a larger one. A 4 foot tiller for a BX versus a 6 foot tiller for an L3301 for example.
I use the cruise control when I am tilling. Set it at 2 or 3 mph and let it rip until you reach the end of the row.
You will not need the pulverizer if you get the tiller. If you take your time and don't mind making multiple passes the tiller will work the soil up to as fine as you want it.
As for HP and size; almost any CUT will do what you want to, it's just a matter of how much time you have. Time versus money, which is the equation we all have to work with, means you need to decide how much money to put into the purchase to lower the time spent doing the work you want to do since a smaller tractor will be slower than a larger one. A 4 foot tiller for a BX versus a 6 foot tiller for an L3301 for example.
Little Red Tractor
Platinum Member
Having tilled with a gear tractor and a couple different HSTs I'll tell you that the HST is easier due to the infinate variation of grounds speed.
If you're worried about the loader givning stability problems on the slope, just dismount it. They all come off pretty quickly these days, or at least take the bucket off the rest of it. That'll take care of that problem. If you have a bucket, you should have loaded tires; that also lowers the center of gravity a bit for more stability.
Using a loader is another good reason for HST. Work the laoder for a day with a clutch and you'll understand.
Never had a tractor with regen, so I can't speak to that issue.
If you're worried about the loader givning stability problems on the slope, just dismount it. They all come off pretty quickly these days, or at least take the bucket off the rest of it. That'll take care of that problem. If you have a bucket, you should have loaded tires; that also lowers the center of gravity a bit for more stability.
Using a loader is another good reason for HST. Work the laoder for a day with a clutch and you'll understand.
Never had a tractor with regen, so I can't speak to that issue.
Found several YouTube videos for 60 and 66" wide Landpride "reverse" tillers being run by tractors similar to the LX2610HSD, or power horsepower BX models. There seems to be no struggle at all. Guess that's because the operator is pacing the rig's forward speed... and load will increase with 1) forward speed, 2) more compacted soil, 3) deeper tilling depth, and 4) deflector chute being closed.
Fallon
Super Member
Massively. I have hard clay here & it's a struggle for a tiller to dig in at times (needs more weight on the tiller). When I hit what use to be an old horse arena covered on sand my travel speed could go up by 3x & still not load the engine like inching through the clay.
With a HST 85% of the time you xan fix mist of the issues by just letting off the go pedal most of the way.
