L3400 CCM hydraulic top link length

StrangeRanger · Mar 24, 2008

I called Mark and ended up talking myself into circles. Gotta do some more measuring tonight.
I really want more than a 4" stroke b/c I know I do more than that now. So, by using the lower holes on the fixed link I should be able to use a 6" stroke side link. I know my blade and BB will lift high enough to travel on the setting, just gotta make sure my blower does. I'm 99% sure it will, but I'm gonna double check tonight.
As for a BH, ya, I'd love one, but honestly can't justify the cost. I'm sure I could find things to do w/ it, but I'd just be playing

Greenfield Dave · Mar 24, 2008

I read your post about the top link being 27 1/2", and you thought 26 1/2"would work. I too have the Pat's on my L4400, and use a box blade to level driveways.
I would suggest more than the factory max length, because, if you want to just drag the box's back blade to level out the grade, you won't have enough length to get the front blade up out of the gravel. Does that make sense?

More length is better, right?? That 72" box is gonna give that tractor a workout!

canoetrpr · Mar 24, 2008

The next size that CCM has is 21 to 32". I was worried that 21 would be way too long as the minimum length when the factor OEM link min length is way lower.

Greenfield Dave, how does your hydraulic toplink length compare to the OEM toplink?

Now the CCM FAQ states that most people only use 60% of their toplink length - so I was sort of going by that.

Not sure if I've screwed up or not

time will tell.

Figure I will be taking it easy with the 72 box... multiple passes perhaps if the tractor bogs down. I only expect to do my drive once or twice a year. Figured a bigger box is better so that I can carry it up to the next tractor

.

StrangeRanger · Mar 25, 2008

Well, my stuff is ordered from CCM. I had remembered the side link incorrectly so I had to stick w/ the same you got Canoe, the 16.5" w/ 4" stroke. It should work I guess, just figured more would have been handy.

As for the top link, I never need even close to the full length of the stock one to use the back edge of my BB. I think the top links we ordered should do fine. You can also adjust the hole the tractor end of the top link is in. It won't make big changes, but might be just what you need if you do need a little more.

Dang, I hate waiting, and that's all I can do at this point. I'm excited though, no more up down up down up down up down. W00t!!

canoetrpr · Mar 25, 2008

I'm looking forward to it too. Bit concerned that I haven't heard back from Mark at CCM yet after I placed my order with him. Figured they'd want an credit card number or something

Greenfield Dave · Mar 25, 2008

They say you only use part of the top link's length, but they fail to say which part.

I don't think there's any way (with Pat's adapters) that they could be too long at the minimum 21" I don't know how short my top link is, but if I pull it all in, the box is on it's nose! And besides, if it is too long, use it on your next tractor!!

StrangeRanger · Mar 26, 2008

canoetrpr said:
I'm looking forward to it too. Bit concerned that I haven't heard back from Mark at CCM yet after I placed my order with him. Figured they'd want an credit card number or something

Hmm... you might just wanna check w/ him politely. Especially considering the fact that they won't take more orders past the end of March until October rolls around.

canoetrpr · Mar 26, 2008

I was able to get a hold of him over email. Turns out their welding machine died and their welder is away sick for a bit. They did get my order whew!. Looking forward to when they are back in production then. Until then, hope to get my valve and get things going.

StrangeRanger · Apr 1, 2008

Hey Canoe,
Get any goodies yet? All my stuff is on order and I'm anxiously waiting. Just ordered the tank plug & o-ring from tractorsmart today. I HATE waiting!

PS: Just noticed your signature, how do you like your toothbar? Do you always leave it on or take it off now and then? Mind if I ask how much $$$?

canoetrpr · Apr 1, 2008

StrangeRanger: Just got my valve yesterday. Put it together last night it was fun. I don't have a 3/8 drive torque wrench or one that can go down to only 12 ft lbs so I might have to buy one. Thats the torque the instructions suggest you tighten the tie rod nuts to.

Spent a fair bit of time trying to figure out where to mount it. I think I've come up with a location.

Careful with the little cotter pins that hold the handles once you put them on the valve. You've got to really twist them to make sure they stay on. I lost two while moving the valve to and from the tractor.

Need to find a metal shop to cut me a mounting bracket. I'm going with something simple after trying out various possibilities. Basically I'm going to bolt a rectangular bracket on the right fender and bolt the valve to that.

Toothbar is great. I kept it on for the first year but I realise that life is more convenient with it off. Right now I leave it off until I really need it. Cost was high here in Canada ($550 or so - from the dealer). Markham has great deals.