L3540 hydro power questions

[hunt4570]

once you get the tank empty I'm pretty sure you can see the bottom with a flashlight. you should be able to see if there is sludge at the bottom blocking the outlet.

So I looked and didn't really see anything in there, even put an inspection camera in there that skidded around the bottom and while it didn't really show anything it did come up completely clean so not a bunch of sludge in there or anything.
I'm running out of ideas!

 

[milkman636]

I know others have already mentioned checking the valve clearances? At 1400 hours there’s a decent chance they are out of spec and could adversely affect performance. Also the soot plug in the exhaust is worth a check too if you haven’t. I don’t have that machine but I would expect there to be a plug that’s designed to be removed periodically to clear any excess soot from the muffler.

 

[MRTOES]

Had an old Cub once that did this forever until I found that a rubber hose had a small flap of rubber in it that popped up making a perfect blockage of the fitting it was fastened to. Have also seen many hoses get sucked inward when more fuel is pulled through....

 

[hunt4570]

I know others have already mentioned checking the valve clearances? At 1400 hours there’s a decent chance they are out of spec and could adversely affect performance. Also the soot plug in the exhaust is worth a check too if you haven’t. I don’t have that machine but I would expect there to be a plug that’s designed to be removed periodically to clear any excess soot from the muffler.

I talked to the mechanic at the Kubota dealer, and he did not think valve clearance would cause this problem. Have not heard of a soot plug but I'll check it out, thanks.

 

[hunt4570]

Had an old Cub once that did this forever until I found that a rubber hose had a small flap of rubber in it that popped up making a perfect blockage of the fitting it was fastened to. Have also seen many hoses get sucked inward when more fuel is pulled through....

Yeah, I was thinking about replacing the fuel line so maybe I will.

 

[hunt4570]

And what do you think of something like this?

Amazon.com

 

[rScotty]

Yeah, I was thinking about replacing the fuel line so maybe I will.

From way out in left field... we do know that a slight air leak in the fuel line from tank cto the filter - or within the filter - will starve it for fuel. So along with replaceiing that line - or at least cutting the fuel lines bak to renew the old ends - you might try just a little pressure in that fuel feed line to see if that would cause an air leak to reveal itself.

You only want a few psi - any more than 3 to 5 psi might blow up that filter. So maybe just plug the vent in the fuel tank cap and let the sun shine on the fuel tank a few hours. See if that causes a leak in the fuel line ends or in the filter.

I once found the husk of a bee that had crawled into a fuel feed and died. When the throttle called for high fuel flow, that husk of bee abdomen would flap shut and the engine would die. Let off on the throttle and the husk would relax. Through the endoscope it looked just like a slight discoloration. I found it totally by accident when I scraped at the "discolored"n area.

 

[hunt4570]

So I drained the tank, didn't really see anything in there, I replaced the fuel line, put some additive in and added 5 gallons of fresh fuel. Took it for a short mow to at least run fuel through the entire system, seemed better but tomorrow I'll go out and give it a go and see how it does. FINGERS CROSSED!!

 

[jonsstihl]

there are two bolts on each side that hold the tank frame onto the tractor. the tank comes out with the tank frame attached. it is in the manual but it is a brief paragraph somewhere along the lines of remove the fuel tank with frame. clutch rod had to come out because it passed between the tank and the frame.

that clear diesel is just a fuel polishing additive. you need diesel kleen if you want to kill "algae" that may or may not be there. I use Biobor JF, a little goes a long way. I probably have enough for the next 30 years. 3.75 milliliters per 5 gallon can. an ounce is 30 milliliters.

I second the vote for the fuel line. it is low pressure so shouldn't cost too much and you have checked pretty much everything else.

grand L4740 valve adjustment

Finally got around to adjusting the valves. remove muffler, remove hood (it comes off with the hood only a little lifted up) if you raise it too high you scratch the paint with the wiper arm, and it hits the fuel tank frame if the angle is too steep. drain fuel tank, remove fuel line from...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[hunt4570]

So I mowed today and the tractor seemed to run like it used to, since I started this whole thing its rained a bunch and I was out of town for a couple weeks (off to Texas to see my first grandbaby) And the grass/weeds were tall and thick so I really tested this thing! Ran through the 5 gallons I put in and, on my way, to get more shortly, hope it continues to run correctly.
Thanks for all the help guys!!

 

[jonsstihl]

I didn't catch that you replaced the fuel line. Now you need to go throw out that chunk of line that you kept on the spare parts shelf (if your like me) , since it seems to have been the culprit.

 

[rScotty]

I didn't catch that you replaced the fuel line. Now you need to go throw out that chunk of line that you kept on the spare parts shelf (if your like me) , since it seems to have been the culprit.

A curious person could take that old fuel line, hang it up, and do couple of tests to see if it was indeed the culprit.

 

[hunt4570]

I didn't catch that you replaced the fuel line. Now you need to go throw out that chunk of line that you kept on the spare parts shelf (if your like me) , since it seems to have been the culprit.

Throw it out??? It might come in handy sometime!

 

[hunt4570]

A curious person could take that old fuel line, hang it up, and do couple of tests to see if it was indeed the culprit.

I do still have it, what kind of tests?

 

[rScotty]

I do still have it, what kind of tests?

Easiest one I can think of is to just hang it up, fill with diesel and then seal both ends sort of like they were on the tractor. That system doesn't have much pressure....mostly just diesel & gravity.

So if it were me, I'd find a couple of smooth shanked bolts to fit the hose and stick one in the end....fill with diesel, then plug the other end. Making sure to be clamping those ends with whatever same type clamp it had on the tractor.

Whole idea is looking for leaks you cannot find any other way. Suction leaks form first at the ends where the hose attaches and also at any bends.
Then hang it up. or drape it over a roundish gate post or something in the sunlight... see if you find out anything.
It ought to stay dry...nothing but diesel inside and air outside....but will it?

rScotty

 

[hunt4570]

Easiest one I can think of is to just hang it up, fill with diesel and then seal both ends sort of like they were on the tractor. That system doesn't have much pressure....mostly just diesel & gravity.

So if it were me, I'd find a couple of smooth shanked bolts to fit the hose and stick one in the end....fill with diesel, then plug the other end. Making sure to be clamping those ends with whatever same type clamp it had on the tractor.

Whole idea is looking for leaks you cannot find any other way. Suction leaks form first at the ends where the hose attaches and also at any bends.
Then hang it up. or drape it over a roundish gate post or something in the sunlight... see if you find out anything.
It ought to stay dry...nothing but diesel inside and air outside....but will it?

rScotty

Well.... unfortunately the fuel filter end I cut off so as to match the correct size at the parts store.

 

[rScotty]

With any luck the new one fixed it.
Half a test is still better than none.

BTW, most rubberish fuel lines have an ID compatible with soft copper tubing ...if you ever need to splice rubber fuel lines together. I keep a few feet of soft copper tubing just for that purpose along with the right size & type of hose clamps.
It is best to use a hose clamp that will continue to put compression on the hose as the rubber compresses. Worm gear type hose clamps don't do that.

I admit to being an oddball mechanic - always been more interested in why something went wrong than in what it takes to fix it.

rScotty

 

[hunt4570]

With any luck the new one fixed it.

I admit to being an oddball mechanic - more interested in why something went wrong than in what it takes to fix it.

rScotty

And did the hose fix it, or did draining the tank do it, and what to do with the 5 gallons of fuel I drained out of the tank?

 

[rScotty]

And did the hose fix it, or did draining the tank do it, and what to do with the 5 gallons of fuel I drained out of the tank?

Yep. BTW, I edited my message above. More info there now.

I'd eyeball that 5 gallons of diesel and probably just use it. Diesel is a mix of various fractions anyway. Most anything that will dissolve in diesel will burn fine in small quantities. "Diesel Fuel" is a range of carbon chains rather than a discrete chemical. And diesel fuel naturally has a percentage ofother carbon compounds - alcohols, ethers, aldehydes, and the ring compounds. Plus you have already been burning it.

And if there is water underneath the diesel, the two do not mix. So the interface is easy to see and avoid. Use a flashlight at an angle; diesel and water have different reflections.

When filling from a five gallon jug to the tractor I always leave the dregs behind.

 

[hunt4570]

Alrighty, took your advice

Yep. BTW, I edited my message above. More info there now.

I'd eyeball that 5 gallons of diesel and probably just use it. Diesel is a mix of various fractions anyway. Most anything that will dissolve in diesel will burn fine in small quantities. "Diesel Fuel" is a range of carbon chains rather than a discrete chemical. And diesel fuel naturally has a percentage ofother carbon compounds - alcohols, ethers, aldehydes, and the ring compounds. Plus you have already been burning it.

And if there is water underneath the diesel, the two do not mix. So the interface is easy to see and avoid. Use a flashlight at an angle; diesel and water have different reflections.

When filling from a five gallon jug to the tractor I always leave the dregs behind.

Alrighty, took your advice and went to strain and reuse that fuel. I had drained it into a white 5 gallon bucket and when getting ready to pour I could see the line between the diesel fuel and water. So I poured slow and kept an eye on things so as to not mix them. Things went fine and I had 1/2 to1 gallon of water maybe in there so I'm thinking that was a lot of the culprit giving me problems.

Again, thanks everyone for the help!