AllByteNoBark
Gold Member
Looks like SandraOpines confirmed they are there in her thread. Makes it easy.
L3560 LE light question
- Thread starter Cable Guy
- Start date
- Views: 15837
Fallon
Super Member
It would be incredibly stupid for them to bother putting both those switch sockets & not put in plugs for the lights they control. I can see omitting all lights from the harness, but not half the harness components.
AllByteNoBark
Gold Member
I priced the Kubota switches they are pretty proud of them. $38 each.
moship
Veteran Member
I've used rocker switches from this company before as they have a plethora of styles, illumination and labeling options. The form factor is the same.
OTRATTW - The standard in high quality custom rocker switches.
AllByteNoBark
Gold Member
Nice! Thank moship.
Fallon
Super Member
I got those switches for my overkill setup. Picked up their switchbacks to make sure all the wires stay in the proper place when you remove the switch. It's a bit of extra work & parts as you need certain connectors & cant use standard female spade connectors.
chim
Elite Member
Can't say whether the 60 series is the same as my 40, but all the wiring and plugs were in place for the rear work lights. Also don't know if roof access is the same, but on mine you don't remove the liner. The roof shell lifts off and the liner stays in place. My top didn't need to be removed to install the rear work lights.
To add the rear lights on mine I could pop a rubber plug out of the liner and reach through the hole to get the plug (on the end of a small harness) for the switch. I bought a Kubota rear work light switch and plugged it in. The exterior wiring for the lights was run to the brackets holding the "lollipop" flashers at the rear of the roof. There were plugs on all the ends so it would have been ready to simply plug the factory work lights in and go. I cut the factory plugs off and butt spliced the LED's. I did check continuity between the switch end and the light ends of the wiring because there is other unused wiring in place for rear wiper, window defogger, etc.
I did remove the top shell to install surface-mounted yellow flashers and have a look to see if the space needed cleaned. It was easy off and back on but a little awkward if you don't have a second person. Inside the cab there are a bunch of bolts around the perimeter but only some of them go up through and engage in captive nuts in the top shell. Others remain in place.
To add the rear lights on mine I could pop a rubber plug out of the liner and reach through the hole to get the plug (on the end of a small harness) for the switch. I bought a Kubota rear work light switch and plugged it in. The exterior wiring for the lights was run to the brackets holding the "lollipop" flashers at the rear of the roof. There were plugs on all the ends so it would have been ready to simply plug the factory work lights in and go. I cut the factory plugs off and butt spliced the LED's. I did check continuity between the switch end and the light ends of the wiring because there is other unused wiring in place for rear wiper, window defogger, etc.
I did remove the top shell to install surface-mounted yellow flashers and have a look to see if the space needed cleaned. It was easy off and back on but a little awkward if you don't have a second person. Inside the cab there are a bunch of bolts around the perimeter but only some of them go up through and engage in captive nuts in the top shell. Others remain in place.