logcabin
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When I first read this question my reply was EXACTLY THAT! My wording was a tad different however. I used the wording Touch and Hole! Well said my friend, well said!!
L3560 with cab. How would I know if I'm close to rolling over?
- Thread starter JerkyChew
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- cab rollover wheel spacers
5030
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When in doubt, wear your belt. Seatbelt that is and make sure your ROPS is up. I see so many pictures of owners with the ROPS folded. That does about as much good as nothing.
JWR
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I'm not a fan of seatbelts on tractors. Never wear them. I do keep the ROPS up. I fully understand what they do and how they do it and the necessity of having a strong cage around you while held in by the belt. No thanks. The Penn Ag Progress Days near State College has the only live demo of turning a remote controlled tractor over that exists as far as I know. I've seen it multiple times and it is very educational. Hit a hole on the lower side and purposely roll the tractor... the dummy is in a seat belt inside a ROPS. My policy is that I go to extreme lengths to make damn sure I am not turning the machine over in the first place. If slopes are THAT steep then I am going up or down them, never across, or not going on them AT ALL. If those measures don't work, stay to H off those slopes !!! It is not worth your life to cut a few extra bushes.
In 60+ years of tractor operating on 5 different kinds of tractors I have only been in serious danger of life threatening crashes or circumstances twice. Both times I was up on the seat ready to jump, which I could not have if I had been in a belt. In both cases I steered my way out of it without a crash or turnover. I do not recommend it -- the best way is to stay out of those situations as top priority. You cannot justify being IN those situations. It is your life and you have to preserve it as you see fit.
5030
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On my cabbed units, I tend not to wear a belt simply because I'm completely enclosed in a ROPS certified structure which totally encompasses the entire cab but I do with the open station units and I never fold the ROPS ever, but then the ROPS also mounts my sunshade-roof... The new F series Kubota front mount mowing machine I have also has a ROPS on it and I'm on the fence about that one. I may fold it or I may not, depends on how restrictive it is when I mow with it. The Cub Tank I traded in didn't have one on it and neither does my wife's ZTR. Heck, I may remove it entirely as it bolts on to the main frame. I'll have to see how that plays out as it's still to early to cut the grass up here. In fact it's well below freezing this AM here and got down to 18 last night. Srong is springing, just slowly.
truckdiagnostics
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Recently purchased a B3350 with a cab. We added rim Guard and 2" spacers. Big difference. Pucker factor way to high before for my liking.
JWR
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If you operate on fairly steep ground, why didn't you go for larger spacers? I don't own a B3350 -- does it have some rear wheel spacing adjustment that is almost adequate and that's why you only used 2" spacers? Certainly ANY added rear wheel spacing reduces the pucker factor but generlly the more you spread the better.
5030
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You can purchase what is referred to as an 'inclinometer' I think at least. Used to be sold on this site but not any more I don't believe. You mount it on your dash panel in front of you and it indicates the angle your unit is at so you know when your butt hole gets tight, you need to mark it as the 'bleed point' for future reference. Me, I can just tell when the 'angle of the dangle' is too severe.
In my situation I cannot space out my wheels though my wheels on the M9's are spaceable by indexing the rims to different positions. I have mine set for row spacing when running hay so I don't run over the fresh cut crop and in my situation, that is inset to the least spaced position. Actually have 4 different settings on the rears and front's.
In my situation I cannot space out my wheels though my wheels on the M9's are spaceable by indexing the rims to different positions. I have mine set for row spacing when running hay so I don't run over the fresh cut crop and in my situation, that is inset to the least spaced position. Actually have 4 different settings on the rears and front's.
truckdiagnostics
Platinum Member
Good question.
Couple of reasons. In order to get chains on Kubota recommended an 11/2" spacer which they have a part number for, so i figured warranty shouldn't become an issue. I choose to go after market to 2" and I did the front also.(which they don't have a part number for) Normally I would have gone more is better. The wider stance messes with you when your tilling.
And from what i read the 2" and the rim Guard was going to get it. Big difference and I did not want to add four more inches. With the additional 2" we are at about 5" Yes I could use a wider tiller, but the tractor doesn't really have the HP. And we have access to a narrower tiller. So we use a narrow tiller and off set, adjust the three point and it works slick.
JWR
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Front wheel spacers are of no use and do nothing to minimize turnover likelihood. You may have had other reasons for getting them.
truckdiagnostics
Platinum Member
At the time it was about the clearance for the front chains. Looking at it you could probably get away with it on the front. Be really tight on the rear. And I don't remember where I saw the recommendation for spacers with chains on the rear. It was a, "you're putting them on the rear front won't hurt." There on now and I can't see a reason to take them off.
