L3800 bota and trailer size...

[dstig1]

deezler - there is one more option if you feel you must stick with the F150 tow vehicle: You could get an aluminum trailer. It will shave a good chunk of weight off but man-o-man will you pay big bux for it. Just one more option to think about. What you are looking to tow is really closer to the 3/4 ton to 1-ton size tow vehicle zone...but I think some of the newer 1/2 tons can handle it too, based on what I have read here.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Nelsond7004,
Thanks for your input! I agree on the trailer brakes as well. My 3500 dodge with the cummins has the engine brake as well so slowing the rig down shouldn't be much a problem. I am tending to think That the 18 seems to be a very nicely compatible sized trailer for the small to mid CUTS. It will also be more than enough for my mule, 4 wheeler and zero turn mower. I think I might make the trip down to Kaufman trailers in nc here soon!

Heck go ahead and get you

 

[Reg]

My little Kukje tractor has similar dimensions, although it weighs nearly 4,000 lbs as just the tractor.
The loader and bucket add 1,300, loaded tires maybe another 1,100, the little hoe on the back adds another ~1,000 or so == could be 7,500 all up with tool box, fuel, etc.
The trailer is rated at 10K, has 16ft bed, with 2ft beaver tail.
It barely fits with the Harley Rake on, I have to jigger the ramps around.
I don't know what the trailer itself weighs, hopefully under 2,500 (-:
Fortunately my truck is a flat bed, so if I take it anywhere and need 2 or 3 implements I have about 8 ft by 7ft clear deck space on that.

I wouldn't go any smaller than 18ft total deck length for a Cat 1 tractor with an implement.
I don't have a rotary cutter, my Caroni flail is plenty long enough on the trailer, a 6ft bush hog would hang WAY off the end - or the bucket would have to go over the edge at the other end.

Yep, a 20+ ft Goosie would be nice.

I have a head to head horse trailer that is 30 ft on the floor, with another 8 1/2 ft over the truck.
A similar dimension equipment trailer would be nice to have, not TOO cumbersome - but then I would probably just put more on it,
maybe a bigger tractor - everything fills up (-:

 

[jeffsw6]

What you are looking to tow is really closer to the 3/4 ton to 1-ton size tow vehicle zone...but I think some of the newer 1/2 tons can handle it too, based on what I have read here.

It really depends on how you set your rig up. With a long enough trailer it is not too difficult to load a tractor so you don't have too much, or too little, tongue weight.

 

[Reg]

Nelsond7004,
Thanks for your input! I agree on the trailer brakes as well. My 3500 dodge with the cummins has the engine brake as well so slowing the rig down shouldn't be much a problem. I am tending to think That the 18 seems to be a very nicely compatible sized trailer for the small to mid CUTS. It will also be more than enough for my mule, 4 wheeler and zero turn mower. I think I might make the trip down to Kaufman trailers in nc here soon!

Not to get TOO nit picky on this, but there is a BIG difference between slowing down when you see that it is desirable to do so and HAVING to REALLY slow down very suddenly. A diesel engine brake on a hefty truck is good for the former, but you really NEED good brakes under the load for the latter.

No brakes on a trailer that weighs the same as the truck results in only 1/2 the deceleration that the truck could achieve without that trailer.
This is just the good old f=mA thang, having doubled the mass and the force being the same (limit of the truck's ABS system).
Single axle brakes go some way towards fixing it, but even all wheel trailer brakes aren't ABS(yet), so we can't expect 1G stops with trailers.

 

[Reg]

I just got back from picking up a 20 Ft tilt 10K GVW trailer. My other trailer is a 18 ft beavertail with drop down ramps, The ramps are no good if I have the BH on because the angle is to steep and the hoe hits the ground going up forward or the trailer if I back up. 10K GVW is fine. 18 is ok as well but the 20 gives you a bit of extra space for whatever else comes along. My tractor is a L3700SU

That shouldn't be a problem, though I admit to having scored up the dirt a couple of times with the hoe's bucket.
(When I remember to) I extend the dipper stick out to raise the bucket just before I line up on final approach to the ramps, same with unloading.
Drop ramps, unchain, start tractor, raise bucket, extend dipper stick, into gear, release brakes, get off, pull dipper in, etc.
This is all with the boom and swing lock pins(required for travel) in place.
I must admit it took a couple of times to figure this out, my mind was ALL on keeping straight and stopping on the right spot the first few times.
Then I wondered what those gouge marks were from, I think it actually hit black top before I figured it out (-:

 

[jeffsw6]

No brakes on a trailer that weighs the same as the truck results in only 1/2 the deceleration that the truck could achieve without that trailer.
This is just the good old f=mA thang, having doubled the mass and the force being the same (limit of the truck's ABS system).

Brake fade - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hydraulic brake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Reg]

Brake fade - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hydraulic brake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

It isn't ABOUT brake fade, it is about un-braked wheels that have significant load on them - and braked wheels that do NOT have significant percentage of the total load on them.

To paraphrase; Ya can't get the (braking) power to the road.

 

[jeffsw6]

What I mean to point out is that it is not even close to as simple as you posted.

 

[deezler]

Well, as enlightening as this thread has been, I've pretty much decided not to bother with buying a trailer fo rmy dad's F150. We already have a 6x12 utility, so that can do all the easier hauling (not a tractor, of course). And for $50 for a full day... I'll just rent the one I pictured earlier for larger hauls.