L3901 Battery keeps dying

[capnchuk]

I have a Kubota L3901 with about 100 hours on it. It sits for a week or 2 between uses. Always starts right up. Lately, I have been having a battery issue. After mowing for a couple hours, it won't restart (standard dead/low battery noises when key is turned) and has to be jumped. Last week, it even died while using it (was driving along and it just stopped) and had to be jumped. No warning lights. pulled the battery and had it checked at 2 different shops. Load tested as good at both places. put a multimeter on the battery and alternator and seem to be getting good juice. Tightened the belt. Problem still exists. clearly the alternator is not keeping the batter charged and I start running only off the battery until it drains. if its a loose ground, any guess as to where?

 

[Fuddy1952]

You need a multimeter. First check across battery not running. A good charged battery should read 12.5 to 12.7 volts. Then running should read about 13.5 to 14.5 volts.
See what it measures.
Then not running disconnect a battery lead. On amps scale (start with highest setting) meter in series lead to battery. See if you have a current draw (there shouldn't be, key off).

Does instrument gauge indicate a problem?

 

[capnchuk]

You need a multimeter. First check across battery not running. A good charged battery should read 12.5 to 12.7 volts. Then running should read about 13.5 to 14.5 volts.
See what it measures.
Then not running disconnect a battery lead. On amps scale (start with highest setting) meter in series lead to battery. See if you have a current draw (there shouldn't be, key off).

Does instrument gauge indicate a problem?

as my post indicates, I have already used a multimeter and also there were no warning lights on panel.

 

[5030]

Test it with a carbon pile load tester. Better yet, get a new one. Batteries are wallet breakers unless you are an extremely cheap, cheapskate. Nothing lasts forever, you included.

 

[DVR]

He was telling you how to check for a parasitic draw with the key off.
You said you used a multimeter, you did not say you performed this test. Much different from checking voltage running vs not running.
You obviously have no interest in a suggestion that could help. Your reply above will greatly limit the helpful responses added.
As a newb here you should be glad anyone tried to help. I can assure you this is all the time I am wasting on this topic.

 

[capnchuk]

He was telling you how to check for a parasitic draw with the key off.
You said you used a multimeter, you did not say you performed this test. Much different from checking voltage running vs not running.
You obviously have no interest in a suggestion that could help. Your reply above will greatly limit the helpful responses added.
As a newb here you should be glad anyone tried to help. I can assure you this is all the time I am wasting on this topic.

I can assure you I wouldn't want to waste your time. Thank you for the wisdom. Posting that you don't intend to help is a waste of everyone's time. If you read my initial post, I had indicated there were no warning lights on instrument panel. The reply seemed to not have acknowledged that. you obviously are more interested in preaching than helping. Have a nice day.

 

[5030]

A multimeter across the battery posts tells little because a battery will show good (12.5-13.1 volts at rest (no draw) but flooded cell jars exhibit what is termed 'surface charge', which is voltage at rest but as soon as you apply a load (amp draw) that value goes south, which is why I load test them with a carbon pile resistance tester.

In reality, no need, just replace it and move on. Not a wallet buster in the first place and when you do replace it, clean all the contact points, inspect the cables and clean the chassis ground as well.

 

[crashz]

I'll echo 5030 - just replace it. I was having issues starting the first winter, after only 50 hours or so and less than a year old. Thought I wasn't running it enough, but it was that really cold part of January 2018. The battery was just weak. I replaced with an Interstate with twice the CCA and all is good.

Though everyone here says that the Kubota batteries are great, mine was a big dud. About good for a core charge, that was it.

 

[Dave M7040]

I have attached alternator test page from the WSM.

Either your battery is bad or system is not charging.

Modern battery tests are designed for idiot use. True Carbon Pile load tests deemed too dangerous for untrained but certainly yielded much more accurate end result.

Dave M7040

 

[fried1765]

He was telling you how to check for a parasitic draw with the key off.
You said you used a multimeter, you did not say you performed this test. Much different from checking voltage running vs not running.
You obviously have no interest in a suggestion that could help. Your reply above will greatly limit the helpful responses added.
As a newb here you should be glad anyone tried to help. I can assure you this is all the time I am wasting on this topic.

Kinda unnecessarily nasty I think!