L4310 Enhancements

MChalkley · May 16, 2000

Some of you Tractorbynet forum "old-timers" may remember a few posts I made to the old board about "enhancements" to my L4310HST.

Well, this is Chapter 3 (I think):

Yesterday was a "work on the tractor" day. Nothing too major, but one thing in particular that I thought might be of general interest. I permanently installed a hydraulic pressure gauge so I can see what's going on all the time. As it turned out, fabricating the mount was the hardest part. With the help of a friend, we made a made a bracket that mounts to the "joystick movement minimizer flap" that holds the gauge. It's plumbed into the pressure-In line on the loader valve. In this position, as long as the loader is mounted on the tractor, of course, any usage of the hydraulics on the tractor is shown on the gauge. One thing I noticed immediately is that the hydraulic pump produces almost full pressure at just off idle, as long as there's very little or no movement. This is because the pump puts out very little flow at this speed, so any movement over the amount of flow available reduces the maximum pressure available. I think the gauge will be very useful to have - I'll let everyone know.

Other minor changes: I relocated the switch that controls the electric solenoid valves to the bracket that has the slots in it for the position control, just in front of the three remote valve levers, so I can find it without looking for it. And I replaced the cheesy tire for my hydraulic gauge wheel on my 8' blade with a real boat trailer tire. All in all, not a bad day's work.

I still have to get the loader fork brackets welded on, put on lights, and a million other things... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Mark

_RaT_ · May 16, 2000

Mark, forgive me if this sounds naive, but what does this mean "I relocated the switch that controls the electric solenoid valves to the bracket that has the slots in it for the position control, just in front of the three remote valve levers,"

I have not seen the L4310 and its electric solenoid. I have a feeling now that as I'm typing this that you must have info about it in the archives. What is the solenoid operating. I have 3 solenoids on my Glenmac/Harley landscape rake so I know how they work, just wondering about yours. Rat...

MChalkley · May 16, 2000

Rat - You're right - it's a subject I covered in one of my posts in the archives on my L4310 modifications.

I have the Kubota 3-spool remote valve assembly. You've probably seen it; it mounts to the right side of the transmission/differential case, the levers sit right behind the 3-point hitch position control by the seat, and it includes a 6-outlet quick-connect block (actually 3 duals that bolt together). Normally all the outputs from the remote valves go to the quick-connect block, but I have the center valve postion hoses going straight to a cylinder I put on the top link. The 4 hoses coming from the left and right side remote valves go into 4 electric solenoids. When they're de-energized, the hydraulic flow goes to 2 cylinders I put on the 3-point side links. When the solenoids are energized, the flow goes to the upper two sets of quick-connects, so I can power cylinders on implements mounted on the 3-point hitch. The bottom set of quick-connects are connected to hoses coming straight out of the main hydraulic distribution block via a shut-off valve and tee arrangement that either allows hydraulic flow to normally go to tank or be routed to the Bradco 609 backhoe, when it's attached. There's a lot more detail about this in the archives, too.

So, when I said I moved the switch, I meant I moved it from the dumb spot I originally put it in (beside, but almost under, the seat; I thought it would be better protected there, which it probably was, but I decided I'd rather replace it every so often and have it convenient to use), up to the strip the remote valve levers stick up through, where I can more easily get to it.

Mark

_RaT_ · May 17, 2000

Mark thanks, you know, I'm not familiar with the "new" valve way. I still use tractors that have the fender mounts. The Kubota L4850 has a 3 valve fender with one remote and the Ford 2120 has a 2 valve fender mount, no remote. The number of hoses is amazing, We have them wraped in a nylon canvass jacket. You changed your loader hydraulics to 2.5" rams, did it noticeably slow down the lift time because of the extra volume? Rat...

MChalkley · May 17, 2000

Rat - Noticeably, yes; objectionably, no.

Mark

_RaT_ · May 17, 2000

Splendid, that was the only negative thing I remember reading about the 4310. It must have been on tractorbynet over a year ago. Yes, I used to stop by here, but never participated. It was the old site and as I recall was called kubota.com back then. I recall people talking about boosting pressure or as you did, increasing piston size. I thought as you did, why not increase rams as it made most sense. Of course, I'm sure the manufacturer would have a caniption. I didn't buy the L4310 then and have waited. I think the 4610 may be my next purchase. Basically its a 4310 with higher RPM HP, little larger loader, front axle, thats about it. Any idea what your lift capacity is now? Rat...

MChalkley · May 17, 2000

Rat - It's just under 2500 lbs., measured the same way the original LA681A's 1500 lbs is, actual bucket capacity.

Mark

MChalkley · Jun 26, 2000

Well, the pallet forks are installed now. They're at least as useful as I hoped they'd be. In addition to the things you'd expect them to be useful for, I've also used them to clear brush, dig up stumps, etc. Plus, as I posted in another message, the hooks that hold them on are almost as useful as the forks themselves.

The thing I'm working on now is an "overhead console" for the canopy. The plan is to put a 50-amp relay near the battery that's controlled by the starter switch, so it'll only be on when the key is on. This will supply power to an overhead control box made of aluminum and mounted between the square tubes the canopy mounts to. A 6-circuit fuse box will distribute the power through toggle switches to everything. Among the accessories will be a set of front facing trapezoidal-beam lights mounted on the brush guard, and a set of rear mounted traps mounted on brackets attached to the canopy mount. Maybe a rear mounted flood, as well.

In the center of the console will be a 50 to 350 degree temperature gauge connected to different sensors via a rotary switch. One sensor will definitely be on the line leading from the HST transmission to its oil cooler. Another will go in the engine oil sump. I don't know if there's any need for any others - maybe a water temp sensor to provide meaningful numbers instead of some relatively meaningless lines.

The beeper-model tiltmeter (inclinometer) will go to the right of the console for side-to-side measurements and the non-beeper model will go on the side of the canopy for front-to-back measurements.

I'm putting a pair of backup alarm beepers, one facing forward and the other facing rearward with push-on, push-off switches under the mat to control them. These are for greater safety when I'm working on crowded sites.

A lighter socket to keep my cell phone or radio charged will go on the console, too.

I've always worried a little about the fact that Kubota keys from one tractor will fit every other tractor, so I'm putting a round security alarm type key on the console that will let me disable starting the tractor. Also a plain old toggle switch hidden somewhere to activate one of the safety start prevent switches.

The console is built; I just have to start the wiring process.

So, any suggestions or ideas from anyone before I get any farther?

Mark

Rowski · Jun 26, 2000

Mark, You most likely have a good source of supplies for your project. If you don't try going to a Napa store (if there is one around) and ask to see their Echlin buyers guide picture book. It is loaded with all sorts of electrical stuff including pictures with the specs. Example switches, fuse blocks, relays (many differnent styles), etc. Another handy book is their Balkamp book.

Sounds like a good project. You may (may have done this too) want to wire your project on paper first. I usually do this to safe some time and material. Good luck. Let me know how it's coming. If you need any help with wiring detail let me know, I was one of the courses in tech school I payed attention to.

Rowski

P.S. Have you thought of fiber optic cables??

MChalkley · Jun 26, 2000

I've been to several auto parts stores, including Napa, to see what's available. Napa does have the best selection, at the worst prices, so I'm going to buy what I can elsewhere, and get the rest from them.

I've got the console wired on paper, but haven't put any tractor specific details on that drawing because I haven't crawled around on the tractor to see exactly where I'm going to run everything. I think it's going along the inner side of the backhoe subframe after it leaves the engine compartment, then to the inner side of the ROPS, for protection.

What would I do with fiber? (Other than my daily dose, at bedtime, I mean...)

Mark