L4330 not turning on

[60047]

I have a 2006 L4330 HSTC. I used the tractor for a couple hours yesterday and then parked it. There were no issues with starting the tractor yesterday. This morning, I noticed a degradation of electrical components. First I was able to get the glow plug to turn on, but not crank the starter. The next turn of the key from off turned on the dashboard lights, but the glow plug light was not on. Finally, it degraded to the point where nothing turns on after turning the key. The measured voltage on the battery is 12.7V, which is low, but I would have assumed 12.7V is enough to turn on the dashboard gauges.

It seems like removing the battery is not particular fast and easy, so I wanted to make sure it was in fact the battery before going down that path. Could it be something else? The battery is definitely not new, but no idea how old it is (predates my purchase).

 

[5030]

Get a new one and be happy. Batteries are the most neglected and maligned part of any tractor, next to the air filter, both of which I renew regularly.

 

[jmc]

Are you measuring voltage directly across the battery terminals? Dirty cable connections may be the problem. If not:

My 2003 4330 original battery lasted 15 years and only took a few minutes to replace. If yours is original (very possible), do what 5030 said and just replace it to see what happens. It doesn't owe you anything more and it's a lot easier in the summer than in the winter.

Afterthought- did you try jumping it?

 

[jmc]

Are you measuring voltage directly across the battery terminals? Dirty cable connections may be the problem. If not:

My 2003 4330 original battery lasted 15 years and only took a few minutes to replace. If yours is original (very possible), do what 5030 said and just replace it to see what happens. It doesn't owe you anything more and it's a lot easier in the summer than in the winter.

Afterthought- did you try jumping it?

My original was a nx110-5mf. If that's yours too and this is a manufacturers model number, then yours is probably original.

 

[5030]

Are you measuring voltage directly across the battery terminals? Dirty cable connections may be the problem. If not:

My 2003 4330 original battery lasted 15 years and only took a few minutes to replace. If yours is original (very possible), do what 5030 said and just replace it to see what happens. It doesn't owe you anything more and it's a lot easier in the summer than in the winter.

Afterthought- did you try jumping it?

I replace both of my Group 31's every 5 years because they take a beating when I'm farming and the one thing I don't want is a flat battery when it's 10 degrees outside and I need a tractor to plow snow.

When I change batteries I also clean all the contact points including the main ground to the frame.

Take a lot of CCA's to spin a stone cold diesel when it's bitter cold out and no, I don't plug them in. No power in the tractor barn.

 

[60047]

@jmc It was measured across the positive terminal and the pin on the loader for ground. My tractor has a cab and air and that is making removal of the battery far more complicated than it should be. It's definitely not a matter of just taking out the tie downs.

 

[5030]

The L4330 has the battery in the front just like my big M's do. My batteries are much bigger but not hard to remove and replace and yours isn't either. Maybe I'm missing something.

 

[diesel85]

I would replace the battery. Batteries are consumable items and need replacing every few years. When you replace it, make sure to get a paint pen and write the date of replacement on it.

If you want to be double sure your battery is shot, when you bring it to the parts store, ask them to do a load test on it. Many of them will do it for free and will only take but a few minutes.

Good luck...

 

[JWR]

No reason to replace your battery until you clean the terminals thoroughly and clean up/tighten the ground connection to the frame. If the problem persists after that the battery is very likely bad but still, as Diesel85 said, have your parts store load test the battery. If the battery tests bad then of course replace it.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

On the Grand L there is usually an auxiliary spade terminal feeding some fuses in a box at the front of the tractor. That connection can have problems have replaced clamp and terminal on my L3130GST

 

[kallnojoy]

No reason to replace your battery until you clean the terminals thoroughly and clean up/tighten the ground connection to the frame. If the problem persists after that the battery is very likely bad but still, as Diesel85 said, have your parts store load test the battery. If the battery tests bad then of course replace it.

This. Remove, inspect, CLEAN anyway and reattach the ground cables - especially wherever it grounds to the frame.

Had the same problem recently on my L3800. Didn't bother removing/cleaning the ground because it looked just fine... a couple hours of frustrating debugging later I finally cleaned it and *poof*, back in business.

 

[CobyRupert]

Where do you live that you need glow plugs in June? …though some diesels are just really cold blooded.
12.7 volts (or 2.1 volts per battery cell) is normal for a resting battery. But voltage, doesn’t tell you how many amps of charge it can deliver. Voltage might be good, but not enough electrons available to flow (amps) for any length of time. Only a battery load tester ($20) can test this. Battery can be tested with battery installed in tractor.
As noted, clean terminals first.

 

[60047]

@CobyRupert I don't need glow plugs now. I was just referring to the various lights that were turning on.

Regarding the removal of the battery, this is what someone else on OrangeTractorTalks said about the same issue:

My battery died in the L4330. I know some say it is problem to replace. That is not correct. Problem is a major understatement. My tractor has a cab and air. The air conditioner line lays on top of the battery and the check glass is against the battery. I took out the grill and removed the battery hold downs. I see no possible way to remove that battery. I can't lift it up over an inch as the AC line is there and the hard metal elbow connector to the check glass cylinder is over the batter so of course can't be bent. It cannot be slid sideways as there is a metal brace of some kind on the side requiring that the batter come upwards two or three inches.

Problem solved: Thanks guys for the advice. I was able to get the battery out of the L4330 by removing the grill wing nuts. Then unpluging the headlights,,,, it is locking connector that I finally got loose and iifting the grill upwards and out. I then removed the mounting bolts to the transmission cooler. At least that is what I think it is. I was able to move it from a vertical to a horizontal position as the hoses were rubber. After laying it down I was able to move all the wiring harness that is directly above the batter and the AC line to the rear as much as possible. This allowed enough (barely) room to slide the battery foward enough to put it out. It was not possible because of the hard lines nor would have helped to move the AC check glass unit.

 

[60047]

I took the battery out and had it tested at the auto parts store. The battery passed the load tests, so I guess that isn't the issue. Now to start running down other issues.

Are there easy ways to test the starter and solenoid?

 

[60047]

Come to think about it, the problem doesn't even get to the starter. When I turn the key after not touching it for a few hours, I see dashboard lights for a couple seconds. And then they go away for good and nothing happens when I turn the key.

 

[60047]

Problem solved: The contact point between the battery cable and chassis was corroded and prevented a solid ground. I replaced the old cable and then ground down the contact area on the chassis with a rotary rasp. No problems with the battery; it was checked at Auto Zone.