Price Check L4610 pricing

[jedens]

After much investigation, studying, reading, changing my mind, and a lot of fun just dreaming, I THINK I've finally made up my mind that I'm going with an L4610 and bradco backhoe instead of the L35 or L48. It seems to fit in between the two for general purpose use and fits my budget. So here's what I'm looking at currently:
L4610 HST
LA 852 FEL
66" bucket
R4 tires
200 lb weights for rear
Extra hydraulic remote for front loader
Bradco 509 backhoe installed
16" hoe bucket
Delivered


All priced at $31,500 plus tax. The dealer has sharpened his pencil twice on the bid and I think this is his final one. I think for this area, this looks like a very good bid.

I'm also discussing exchanging the 66" loader bucket and getting a skid steer quick tach mount and an ATI GBC-66 Grapple bucket. For the quick tach mount and a demo grapple bucket it will run about an extra $2100.

Anyone else have any thoughts or comments on the configuration or price?

Joe

 

[treeboone]

It sounds like a pretty fair deal, I would get the HST rather than the shuttle, if I am not mistaken, the shuttle costs MORE than hydro on this particular model.
I got the Woods 9000 so I am not familiar with that model hoe. Make sure it is a sub-frame model. If you are going to move rocks, a good thumb on the hoe is a must have. (about 500.00 from Attachment Sales) Chain hooks on the loader would be handy also. I think the brush grapple is going to be nice, I would love to have one! You will want more than 200# ballast when the hoe is off the tractor. My ballast is a 500# rear blade, something you will need for grading and snow. If you have lots of money, get a box scraper also, but I think you will find a GOOD rear blade to be much more usefull in general. Since JOHN DEERE dropped the Frontier line of implements (by Woods) you might be able to find a deal on a rear blade. I looked at one last week, better built than my LandPride 3584 and 895.00. By the way, 84 inch width is ideal for my L4610. This tractor is a real keeper, you will not regret it, especially if you get the HST.

 

[jedens]

Hi Treeboone,
Thanks for the feedback. I agree with you that I need to have more than 200 lbs weight. The dealer told me 200 lbs and I got to thinking later that it probably wasn't enough. The chain hooks is a great idea, I didn't think of that. I definitely will get the HST. That was one of the main reasons that I decided against the L35. What is primary difference in capability between a rear blade and a box scraper? I've never used either but I will need to put in a driveway eventually so I'll need to get one or the other I'm sure.
Joe

 

[BeeBop]

Hi Joe,
Why not go w/a 72'' bucket w/that 4610 and if at all possible make it a 4in1 bucket, you'll be sooo glad you did. I would preload my tires as well, this should aid in your ballast quandary. The box scrape is a very nice attachment for grading off uneven areas due to the fact of it's ability to hold dirt on a reserve and deposit it on any uneven area as you drive over it. It is also very nice to back fill with or as some would call it back blade. I have always liked my blades the heavier, the better. I would go w/a 6' blade for your 4610. As for the scrape blade it is a master for driveways as it has the ability to angle and offset, (on some models) for doing ditches beside of your driveway. it is also easier to crown your driveway with but the adjustments are to drastic on the blade so you would be better to use your bottom link height adjustment for this. I would demand on it having offset if this be your primary application. I would opt for a 7' balde for this one due to the fact that will leave your tractor farther away from the ditch when you're offset and dragging the ditch. Woods makes very nice boxes and scrapes so check them out. You are going to luv that 4610 /w3tcompact/icons/love.gif.

 

[treeboone]

It would be nice to have both, but if you can only choose one, the blade will be the best choice. A box scraper can scarify and move spoil for a distance. With a blade, I use the loader if I have to move soil a distance. The blade has the ability to work at an angle, to cast spoil to one side or another in a windrow. This is great for snow. It can work in forward or reverse, and has the benifit of being very usefull for many applications. The box blade is much more limited, and I usually find that I hook up the blade much more often. I sold the last box scraper (a Gannon, well made) with my old tractor and have not missed it except on a few occasions.
Look at the 84 inch Woods or Frontier (same thing, sold as an economy John Deere implement) They will weigh in at a bit over 500# You will have the construction tires so you will be OK with liquid ballast, Mine are R1 Ag tires and I drained them after my first flat (what a mess!)

 

[jedens]

Hi Don,
Thanks for the info. It sounds like the scrape blade is a little more universally useful for me. Since the budget is now tapped out that will go on the top of my wish list. I did end up going with a 72" grapple bucket and I got a skid steer quick-attach mount. I've got much more brush clearing and cleanup work to do than dirt work, at least for now. I'm hoping to find a used skid-steer 72" general purpose bucket sometime in the next year that I can pick up fairly cheap. Maybe I could pick up a skid steer 4n1 bucket used someplace.

 

[jedens]

Hi Treeboone,
I notice in your profile you have both a front and back blade. Which do you find most useful for which tasks?
thanks
Joe

 

[treeboone]

The front blade is a Curtis snow plow (like you see on pickups, adapted to a tractor loader.) It replaces the loader bucket in winter, and comes off in the spring. It is only used for snowplowing, I suppose it would push gravel also, but I don't. The rear blade is used summer and winter. The blade is indespensible for snow removal. If you have paved driveway, a snow blower is faster, but I have alot of "blower bait" (rocks and such) so a blade is the only way to go. The rear blade is the most versatile implement I have:
provides ballast - 500#
pulls away from tight spots
Pushes like a dozer
angles and offsets to cut ditch
angles to cast snow to the side, two passes opens a driveway, 4 if berms need pushed back
Grades driveway and landscape in summer
Reverses to push or pull
Dragging with backside of cutting edge moves light snow when ground is not frozen, smoothes gravel and dirt nicely

If you go back in the archives, you will find some pictures and threads on the subject.