L4850 clutch problems

[clinter36]

Hello,

I have an L4850 with aprox. 1500hrs. It has the Ever Clutch (wet clutch) and hydraulic shuttle - it is a manual transmisson.

The clutch is not fully disengaging. The tractor creeps backward even with the clutch in and the Hyd. shif in neutral. When the gear shift lever is in neutral, it grinds badly going into gear. Yes, this occurs with the throttle all the way down (idling). Also there is a metalic rubbing/clanking noise when the tractor is in gear and moving either forward or reverse..it comes and goes but seems to be worse under load.

I have searched forums and the web and have found only a little information. But what I did find seems to be two possibilities: 1) Some type of problem with the proportioning of hydraulic pressure to the forward and reverse clutches causing an unbalanced condition. 2) worn clutch disc. causing the metal clutch housing to rub which creates the rotational resistance.

Any information and advise is much appretiated! Also, any advise on splitting the tractor to access the clutch would be very useful as it looks like I will be doing that sooner or later.

Thank you,
Clint

 

[magicheater]

Sorry to hear that, I have a shop manual and will try to get some info for you soon.

 

[clinter36]

Thanks Magicheater....I guess I can forget about the 3 pt arms for a while...

 

[nightowl490]

I have L4150 with same engine and design as 4850. I have total shop manual and operating manual. Just my opinion but here is what I would do.

Drop 35 bucks and get a new hydro filter. Loosen filter and take it off with oil pans around. Inspect the discharge, Silvery, particular, anything at all. I have also ran the oils through a magnet in attempt to find/view metal. Replace filter

Cut open old filter and inspect the guts. This will tell you what is coming apart in wet clutch system. It there are particles, metal, brake fibers, (which are larger and in "peels". completely drain hydro system and replace with fresh oil. After replacing, start tractor with hi-lo in neutral and 4 speed in same. Let it warm up and refiltrate the entire system.

See if problem continues. Maybe this will free it up. Tip, drain oil from a warm tractor.

This is first step. Oil is cheap compared to splitting tractor.

Just a try? Let me know what you find.

 

[clinter36]

Thanks for all the info...keep it coming! I will try replacing the filter. I did find it a little strange that when I checked the fluid level the fluid was perfectly clean - like brand new. (I just bought the tractor). Almost like the previous owner already tried that.

It will be interesting to find the condition of the filter.

Clint

 

[nightowl490]

Thanks for all the info...keep it coming! I will try replacing the filter. I did find it a little strange that when I checked the fluid level the fluid was perfectly clean - like brand new. (I just bought the tractor). Almost like the previous owner already tried that.

It will be interesting to find the condition of the filter.

Clint

A LITTLE STRANGE AND ACTUALLY VERY TROUBLING!

 

[rbargeron]

................The clutch is not fully disengaging. The tractor creeps backward even with the clutch in and the Hyd. shif in neutral. When the gear shift lever is in neutral, it grinds badly going into gear. Yes, this occurs with the throttle all the way down (idling). Also there is a metalic rubbing/clanking noise when the tractor is in gear and moving either forward or reverse..it comes and goes but seems to be worse under load.
............seems to be two possibilities: 1) Some type of problem with the proportioning of hydraulic pressure to the forward and reverse clutches causing an unbalanced condition. 2) worn clutch disc. causing the metal clutch housing to rub which creates the rotational resistance.

Hi Clint,
I'm sorry to hear about a malfunctioning L3 machine. These rigs are very reliable - so there isn't much published repair experience out there.

This could be a hydraulic control problem (just linkage) or it might be a mechanical problem in the reverse clutch pack itself. The Ever Clutch is really two multi-disk clutch packs, one for forward, one for reverse. The clutch pedal just modulates pressure to whichever hydraulic pack is selected by the shuttle lever. When the engine is not running there is no pressure and no drive. The control valve is under the left running board and does everything based on linkages from the pedal and hand lever.

I think you are right - the symptoms sound like the reverse clutch pack is dragging - maybe because it's still getting some pressure when it shouldn't, or maybe because of some mechanical damage.

A way to possibly isolate whether this is a hydraulic or mechanical issue might be to jack up one rear tire with the engine off (cold) and a gear selected. If the reverse clutch pack is mechanically dragging, turning the starter should immediately cause the wheel to start to turn backward. If it doesn't - but turns later after the engine starts - it points to a hydraulic control problem that appears only when there is pressure.

If you need to service the clutch packs they're inside the first housing behind the engine. Splitting requires unbolting the front ends of the backhoe subframe but not removal - it can stay connected at the rear axle. FEL subframes can stay on too, I think.

I missed your post about the 3-point hitch - I have basically the same tractor & backhoe. I'm located in MA so you could come see it & measure etc. It's a Cat I/II setup so it's beefy and expensive. The swing check chains/turnbuckles attach with a clevis and pin thru the backhoe subframe - look for the holes on your subframe. I believe the Cat I hitch parts from an L3750 or L4150 would fit. I also have manuals for the tractor, loader and backhoe. Take care, Dick B

 

[tractorboys2]

I had clutch problems last yr on my l3600 dt. i thought it was worn out. it wasnt. split it. the big rod that goes through the housing that works the fork-bering had just a small amount of rust working inside and that kept it from working. took it apart sanded it down and lubed it with neverseize and all works good again. these things should have greese fiting with acess but they dont. those kubota manuels are a rip off. poor small black and white pics and no binders or covers. just cheap paper copys all shrink wraped for 140 dollars.

 

[_RaT_]

Hi Clint,
I'm sorry to hear about a malfunctioning L3 machine. These rigs are very reliable - so there isn't much published repair experience out there.

This could be a hydraulic control problem (just linkage) or it might be a mechanical problem in the reverse clutch pack itself. The Ever Clutch is really two multi-disk clutch packs, one for forward, one for reverse. The clutch pedal just modulates pressure to whichever hydraulic pack is selected by the shuttle lever. When the engine is not running there is no pressure and no drive. The control valve is under the left running board and does everything based on linkages from the pedal and hand lever.

I think you are right - the symptoms sound like the reverse clutch pack is dragging - maybe because it's still getting some pressure when it shouldn't, or maybe because of some mechanical damage.

A way to possibly isolate whether this is a hydraulic or mechanical issue might be to jack up one rear tire with the engine off (cold) and a gear selected. If the reverse clutch pack is mechanically dragging, turning the starter should immediately cause the wheel to start to turn backward. If it doesn't - but turns later after the engine starts - it points to a hydraulic control problem that appears only when there is pressure.

If you need to service the clutch packs they're inside the first housing behind the engine. Splitting requires unbolting the front ends of the backhoe subframe but not removal - it can stay connected at the rear axle. FEL subframes can stay on too, I think.

I missed your post about the 3-point hitch - I have basically the same tractor & backhoe. I'm located in MA so you could come see it & measure etc. It's a Cat I/II setup so it's beefy and expensive. The swing check chains/turnbuckles attach with a clevis and pin thru the backhoe subframe - look for the holes on your subframe. I believe the Cat I hitch parts from an L3750 or L4150 would fit. I also have manuals for the tractor, loader and backhoe. Take care, Dick B

I was hoping Dick would chime in. I just two days ago had to adjust the clutch interlock switch on my L4850. I can tell that I need to push the clutch in a little further for completely disengaging. Mines a 1991 model. I suspect it is indeed an adjustment issue.

That's a picture of my L4850 in the avatar.

 

[clinter36]

Thanks Guys....

I will order a manual today. I assume that the manual has the information on adjusting the clutch interlock switch?

Dick, thanks for the offer on the 3 pt, I may take you up on that....but need to get this clutch thing resolved first.

Good to hear its a good machine....I just moved up from my trusty ford 1900 and was starting to think I made a mistake!

Clint