L6060 Engine Noise Getting Louder

[MHarryE]

With Tier 4, there is an entirely new engine oil classification and a requirement that required building engines with tighter clearances, less oil contamination from combustion, etc. as a result, nearly every manufacturer has increased oil change intervals. The oils are backwards compatible in most cases but make sure not to use oils less than CJ-4; however, CK-4 superseded CJ-4 in 2017. The L6060 came out before that so your manual may say CJ-4 but I don’t think you will find that anymore. I use synthetic off-highway heavy duty turbo diesel oil 5W-40 in mine (cold weather - we need 5W-40 in my area). It’s CK-4 but also meets a whole list of obsolete ratings such as CJ-4. So your engine is built with tighter clearances, uses improved piston rings to reduce contaminants getting past, etc. don’t worry about the oil change interval increase as your oil is likely better at 400 hours than that in a L5740 at 200 running under the same conditions. As for the noise, yes, let the dealer know if only to increase your peace of mind. I think, however, it is the ECM tweaking the injectors as it reaches certain parameters (specifically engine temp) but there are 4 exhaust sensors downstream (once again I’m not sure - that is what my M7 has but I don’t have a WSM for my L6060). Incidentally, my L6060 has the shortest oil change interval of my Tier 4 over 25 hp machines. My M7-171 and SVL75-2 both recommend 500 hours. All 3 specify CJ-4 oil in bold type. Like I mentioned, CJ-4 was the good stuff when all 3 went into production but all 3 are now running CK-4.

 

[Hilbilly]

Let us know if changing the oil changed the noise. I gree though, doesn't sound aweful to me.

I finished the changes but have not yet run it to see if it made any changes to the engine noise.

I agree that the noise does not sound horrible but I am concerned for 2 reasons; 1) It didn't do it when it was new or for a long time afterwards and 2) my warranty is about to expire and if there is something wrong, I want it fixed under warranty.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Doesn't your manual have a time interval oil change too? OR is it 400 hours even if it takes 400 years?

I don't worry about the oil wearing out, I change it, also to get rid of the acids that build up in the oil, that can do damage when the tractor sits around not being used.

For most guys with these little tractors, it takes a long time to put 400 hours on it.

SR

 

[Hilbilly]

Doesn't your manual have a time interval oil change too? OR is it 400 hours even if it takes 400 years?

I don't worry about the oil wearing out, I change it, also to get rid of the acids that build up in the oil, that can do damage when the tractor sits around not being used.

For most guys with these little tractors, it takes a long time to put 400 hours on it.

SR

I double checked, and there is nowhere in the manual that calls for a time increment for oil changes, only hrs.

I can see the time increment making sense especially for a low use machine. That is subjective and could mean different things to different people. I am sure for commercial operation my roughly 200 hrs a year is no use at all and for some that would be 4 years worth of hrs, lol.

I suppose it also matters if the machine is just putting around or being worked hard. The only time my tractor works hard is in the winter for snow blowing. The rest of the year it is doing light work. The engine may be operating at PTO speed but not working hard or it is running at 1500 to 2000 rpm for loader work.

 

[kpsp50]

I changed my oil every 100 hours or once a year whichever comes first along with the filters check your intake and exhaust valves one of them could be getting loose

 

[Hilbilly]

I changed my oil every 100 hours or once a year whichever comes first along with the filters check your intake and exhaust valves one of them could be getting loose

The owners manual states that the valves are to be checked at 800 hrs and that should be done by a Kubota dealer. Since my tractor is still under warranty and has less than 800 hrs on it, I do not want to touch the valve adjustment. I'm still waiting to hear back from the dealer and may give him a call tomorrow.

FYI, I ran the tractor today and it did the same thing. At around 3 minutes after start up, it started making the louder noise again. So the oil change did not help with that.

 

[gtbensley]

Is it possible that this has an EGR valve thats opening once its warmed up some and that is causing the change in noise? I realize you say this noise has not always been there....But perhaps its something like that?

 

[Hilbilly]

Is it possible that this has an EGR valve thats opening once its warmed up some and that is causing the change in noise? I realize you say this noise has not always been there....But perhaps its something like that?

I suppose it's possible but I'm not going to engage in any repairs as long as I have warranty. My biggest concern is that this is not an ECU problem. There is another thread running where an L6060 had an ECU failure that took out the pump and injectors and the owner was charged $10,000 for the repairs. His tractor was out of warranty and mine is close to being out. I might check into an extended warranty.

 

[gtbensley]

Its worth looking into. I used to work at a Ford dealer and always told the guys with diesel trucks its worth spending a couple grand on an extended warranty. One repair normally pays for the cost of it.

I have read that L6060 engine failure thread and would say its not a common failure. Its unfortunate that owner got stuck with the bill on something that shouldnt have failed but everything man made can fail.

 

[gtbensley]

Absolutely have the dealer physically look at the tractor and see what they think. They will charge you if they find nothing but its probably worth the small expense to get their input.