Land plain blade height help

   / Land plain blade height help #21  
Re: Dragalong

I do like your land leveller Fred - the one i bulit was a quick knockup out of stuff lying around and is still a work in progress. What i like about yours is the way you say it takes the material over to one side to create a crown, handy having the adjustable cutters for depth & angle. The only thing i don't like on most 3 pt hitch attached levellers is that (unless I'm missing something) they stay fairly rigidly set (even like the berends one below is fairly rigid, but maybe float mode & a deft hand on a hydraulic top link would cover it) so when you transition between grades (i.e. lumps & hollows) that you want smooth transitions for they either lift off the ground or dig in - I know you can try & feather the lift height etc but thats why I like the tow behind (set & go).
.

You don't really have that problem, it never digs in much because the runners stop it. If you have the weight and power, you can just put the 3pt lever down so that you get full travel up and down and if you have a hydraulic side link with float mode, then it will pivot side ways and you have your smooth finished surface. The land plane grading blades are nothing like a box blade or a rear blade where you can get wash boarding ^^^^^ or the whoop tee doos ^--^--^--^--^. :eek:
 
   / Land plain blade height help #22  
Re: Dragalong

You don't really have that problem, it never digs in much because the runners stop it. If you have the weight and power, you can just put the 3pt lever down so that you get full travel up and down and if you have a hydraulic side link with float mode, then it will pivot side ways and you have your smooth finished surface. The land plane grading blades are nothing like a box blade or a rear blade where you can get wash boarding ^^^^^ or the whoop tee doos ^--^--^--^--^. :eek:

I can make those "Whoop tee doos" real easy with my dozer - way too easy :D. Makes it a fun test for suspension. Cheers
 
   / Land plain blade height help
  • Thread Starter
#23  
What a great looking build, very well done Rustyiron, and now given me new ideas.
 
   / Land plain blade height help
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Hay Jimbob, I know what me mean about the "whoop tee doos" with the dozer, that is one of the reasons I need the land plain to fix up my stuff ups with the dozer. Mind you it is great fun flattening every in your path with a dozer. I have 1000acres of mainly scrub and a family that is into dirt bikes and quads so lots of tracks need to be made, so lots of fun for me on the dozer and tractor. Thanks everyone for all the info, it's of great help and I have now changed my design multiple times based on what has been said. Pictures are worth 1000 words so thanks for the pictures, it shows some great skills in home made implements.

John
 
   / Land plain blade height help #25  
What is the extra parts braced up on the rear and do you have more photos?

I think bukitcase answered my question with his first link. Looks to be a skid steer attachment to be used as a pusher.

Yes, ss mount to push it. Bukit (thoughtfully) put in the links (post 19) of the build where there are more pics. The depth adj. is really nice to have but it does add a lot of work to your build. Even a simple skid shoe that you could adjust up or down in a series of bolt holes would be good, also handy as your cutting edge wears.
 
   / Land plain blade height help #26  
Re: Dragalong

I can make those "Whoop tee doos" real easy with my dozer - way too easy :D. Makes it a fun test for suspension. Cheers
When I first started dozing one of my old bosses used to tell me, "never mind that fancy stuff, just make it level"
 
   / Land plain blade height help
  • Thread Starter
#27  
John, are you going to used curved cutting edges?

I really like your LP Rusty Iron.

Hi Roger, I'm going to use curved cutting blades. Ex-council used grader blades, they only use one side because of the hole placement so if I reverse them they are brand new edges and better still they were free. I have 5 so I was going to use two turned flat to the ground as the wear side runners, 2 as the cutting blades and may be one as a tailgate that can be locked down to move material if needed.
 
   / Land plain blade height help
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Hi John,

I have no advice on, making a grader, but thanks for asking the question, because now I hafe even more information for when I do get around to making one.

Also I have to ask:

What are: a 5' "slasher blade", a "Jibb", and a "tree pusher"?

Thanks and G'Day,
Thomas

Hi Thomas,
To answer your questions about my add on's, Not sure if our names may not be what you call them in the US. I have a 5' slasher (3pl PTO cuts grass) and a 5' grader blade ( 3pl back blade) listed but not a 5' slasher blade?? That would be a big *** slasher to spin a 5' blade:D. Jibb is just a lifting arm that attaches to the 3pl like a crane. The tree pusher, or tree spear is an heavy "A" frame that attaches to and above the dozer blade to push high on a tree to push it over. It normally has about a 3' toothed or spiked front that digs into the tree trunk so it doesn't slip off. Hope this answers your question. I do understand that this is not something that is common in the US for some reason?? I don't have a pic of my dozer with the spear attached so I have attached a pic of one I found on google to show you what I am talking about. You need a very solidly made canopy above your head to use this as large branches commonly come crashing down on top of you when you push over trees, we call them "widow makers"
dozer with tree spear.JPG
 
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   / Land plain blade height help #29  
Hi Roger, I'm going to use curved cutting blades. Ex-council used grader blades, they only use one side because of the hole placement so if I reverse them they are brand new edges and better still they were free. I have 5 so I was going to use two turned flat to the ground as the wear side runners, 2 as the cutting blades and may be one as a tailgate that can be locked down to move material if needed.

I think I have a couple like you are talking about. The bolt holes are at the top instead of the middle of the cutting edge.
 
   / Land plain blade height help
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I think I have a couple like you are talking about. The bolt holes are at the top instead of the middle of the cutting edge.
Yes, not sure why they make them like this, stops you being able to use both sides. They must be for different machines with different hole placements. Good for us though, gives an unused edge. :)
 
 
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