Land Plane Advice

[CalG]

Somewhat a distraction from the topic, but....

How does a land plane handle "topographic" roads?

The hill up to my place is STEEP! , and includes three pronounced roll overs . I recently tuned up the surface with the York rake fitted with rear gage wheels, and wonder if a more aggressive tool such as a land plane would be an option.

The road suffers from washboard due to the pitch, tires spin then throw material back. Instant washboard. Also, there is constant maintenance due to rains and run off at the edges. There are several "bones" (read ledge) embedded in the gravel that will never allow a perfect surface, but I can live with that for another thirty years, As I have so far.

Just wondering what a land plane does when it crests a knoll?

 

[ovrszd]

Tries to cut it off and fill the valley. That's it's intended purpose.

 

[jenkinsph]

If HP is not an issue, would you go bigger?

I have a 100hp tractor. I need to purchase a land plane for road work. I have the options of an 84" which is almost exactly my wheelbase or I can get a 96" which covers an extra 6" outside of each wheel.

Is there a benefit to one or another? I am typically a 'go big or go home' type of guy, but since you all have a lot more knowledge about these than I, I'd like your opinion. I'd go with the EA 96" V2, but they are 5wks out and $500 more. If they had it available, I'd go ahead. But I think I need to take care of these roads and I don't 'think' I'd see enough variation to be worth the wait.

So, 84" wheel base. Options Woods 84" or 96" land plane?

Most of the use for my 96" land plane is smoothing pastures land for reworking. If you see where this would benefit you the wide and heavy land plane is a good choice. If most of what you need is for road work it would be better to go with one that is half the width of the roads. I would not be concerned about covering track of rear tires with a landplane within reason, as long as you can follow the road edge without dropping the rear tires in the ditch.

For pasture smoothing after it has been tilled up a land plane does a good job smoothing the field out. You could use a 10' or 12' with a 100 hp tractor. You may be better off with two land planes, I have a 4' wide and an 8' wide and use both.

 

[jenkinsph]

Somewhat a distraction from the topic, but....

How does a land plane handle "topographic" roads?

The hill up to my place is STEEP! , and includes three pronounced roll overs . I recently tuned up the surface with the York rake fitted with rear gage wheels, and wonder if a more aggressive tool such as a land plane would be an option.

The road suffers from washboard due to the pitch, tires spin then throw material back. Instant washboard. Also, there is constant maintenance due to rains and run off at the edges. There are several "bones" (read ledge) embedded in the gravel that will never allow a perfect surface, but I can live with that for another thirty years, As I have so far.

Just wondering what a land plane does when it crests a knoll?

Land planes are all about averaging and smoothing. They work best on roads that have been properly shaped with a rear blade or grader. I find that a rear blade, land plane and heavy roller is a good combination to have for farm roads and driveways. A motor grader and experienced operator does a great job with all of it and is a good way to go for initial building of the road. A land plane used correctly followed by a roller can help maintain the road and will prolong the need for reworking.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Somewhat a distraction from the topic, but....

How does a land plane handle "topographic" roads?


Just wondering what a land plane does when it crests a knoll?

If you have a fixed top link, that holds the angle of the grader relative to the tractor wheel base, so to speak. So if it is a sharp knoll as the tractor crests the rear of the grader will lift and dump the load in the box just ahead of the crest. There are a couple things you can do to help. If you know it is going to happen then as you come to the top you can lift the grader a little to gradually empty the box just before the crest so you don't dump a pile then set it back down on the skids. I use a hydraulic top link which makes it easy to keep the grader skids flat on the road on those kinds of places. Or you can just go back and smooth those places with your bucket when you are done.

gg

 

[JerryK]

Also, depending on your road make up... working it dry tends to bring all the stone up to the top. Working it damp tends to keep the fines mixed up with the stone so it will pack down better. When damp, it will not sometimes spill over the back without clumps. You can just back up with the LP and that will usually level the clumps... Or drag your FEL bucket backwards at a slight downward angle... whatever floats your boat.

 

[JRobyn]

If 72" will do, I have one I'll sell at a good price. For my 10ft wide roads, I need a 60". Bought TOO big.

 

[Dadnatron]

JRobyn.

Why is that size "too big"? I understand it's bigger than half, but how is that hurting you?

 

[ovrszd]

JRobyn.

Why is that size "too big"? I understand it's bigger than half, but how is that hurting you?

It's too big because he believes it's too big. Really doesn't matter about the details. His methods of use will certainly vary from ours and everyone else's.

 

[joeu235]

I have an 8' wide LP. I wish now that I'd bought a 7' wide instead The reason is that on a one lane road you have to go up and down both sides anyways. So the extra width isn't really doing anything other than maxing out the tractor, burning more diesel, and wearing the tires more. The LP is really supposed to be pulled with some speed, and there is a lot of tire slippage at least on my 98 HP tractor which weighs 11,000 pounds.

Johnson grass in the road crown is a real pain too. It makes things much easier if you spray Round Up a week before.