Land plane blade mounts ?

[animal12]

I've run up & down just about any thread I can find , but I have not found good pics of how guys are mounting the blades in their shop built land plane . Anyone out there have any good pics of blade mounts ? Please post them here . Also I can't say I saw anywhere what the spacing should be between the front & rear blade , is there some magical distance or just glue the blades in ?
thanks
animal12

 

[Runner]

I have been thinking (for a long time...) about building a land plane. I have also looked at a lot of them, and the best method I've seen for mounting the blades is to use a piece of angle iron with the open side of the angle facing down, and bolt the cutting edge to the angle like this:

 

[Gordon Gould]

This is how I did mine, Used 4X4X3/8 angle for blade mounts

I made sure a blade was not under a cross piece because there needs to be room for material to flow over the blade.

gg

 

[Runner]

This is how I did mine, Used 4X4X3/8 angle for blade mounts

View attachment 3444934

I made sure a blade was not under a cross piece because there needs to be room for material to flow over the blade.

View attachment 3444935

View attachment 3444936

gg

Gordon, how is that design working out for you? Is there anything you would change if you were building it again?

 

[Gordon Gould]

It works fine for me. I think the key is weight. At 5' wide it weighs 650 lbs. So 130 lbs per foot of width for blade pressure which is the important number.

Before

After

gg

 

[Runner]

It works fine for me. I think the key is weight. At 5' wide it weighs 650 lbs. So 130 lbs per foot of width for blade pressure which is the important number.

Gordon, Thanks for all your info. I looked through my landplane pictures file and I have all your pics and drawings that you previously posted on TBN. I will probably steal your design when I build mine someday (if I ever get around to it....). Hopefully you take that as a compliment.

 

[animal12]

thanks folks , that helped a bunch . I have my metal sides at a guys place & he's supposed to call me when he digs them out . I cant really say what the length will be tell I get my hands on the side material . i have a orange L3301 hst . how much wider do ya think I could go than my back wheel width ? they say. it's 51.5" wide accordin to tractor datas website & then I have 2 or maybe 3" whel spacers on the back so my tire chaing don't rub/scrape anything . so it's either 55.5 or 56.5 " wide . How wide do ya think I could go ?
thanks
animał12

 

[Runner]

so it's either 55.5 or 56.5 " wide . How wide do ya think I could go ?

I would go with a nice round 60". Covers the tracks, but also easy to store.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I pull my 5' wide landplane with an L3010

gg

 

[Slomo928]

I've run up & down just about any thread I can find , but I have not found good pics of how guys are mounting the blades in their shop built land plane . Anyone out there have any good pics of blade mounts ? Please post them here . Also I can't say I saw anywhere what the spacing should be between the front & rear blade , is there some magical distance or just glue the blades in ?
thanks
animal12

My land plane is 58” wide for use behind a Kubota BX25D. The front blade is angled 15 degrees. The cutters are standard box blade cutter bars which are bolted to 4 four inch angle iron. If I had it to do over I would move the rear blade all the way to the back of the unit and move the front blade back to about ten inches from the leading edge of the right side rail. I got some gravel spill over with the current set up which I solved by bolting on a twelve inch long “wing” on the leading edge of the rail angled out to redirect the gravel into the plane. The plane weighs 470 lbs. I added scarifiers after the picture was taken but the tractor has trouble pulling with all four engaged.

 

[jwmorris]

I built these out of a box blade, this one works great for moving material and I used an electric trailer jack so I could use it with a fixed draw bar but on the 3pt is much faster.

It had a floating rear blade, so it cut a lot better than smooth as a box blade. I used the rear baldw hinge, as the hinge for the rear wheels.

The load binder is to adjusting for the crown angle you want.

The 3pt and rippers, I turned into a landplane with 6x6x3/8 angle, 1/4" plate and added 3/8" thick replaceable skids on the bottom.

Ball to drag a 3500 lb roller behind, on back.

Blade depth adjustment but I always run it at a 1/2" down.

I really didn't like that box blade, after I bought it. Turns out to be the best $250 I've spent in awhile.

 

[BFreaky]

I've made it adjustable, works much better this way.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Very nice work there !!

I've made it adjustable, works much better this way.

Very nice work there !! I'd like to see more pics of your build. Seems there should be some good ideas in them,

gg

 

[BFreaky]

I developed my own concept with rippers at the front to help loosen hard packed ground, adjustable blades in the middle and a dozer blade at the back. Everything is controled with hydraulics. I spent alot of time designing it but I'm happy how it works, average workimg speed is 8 km/h

 

[Gordon Gould]

I developed my own concept with rippers at the front to help loosen hard packed ground, adjustable blades in the middle and a dozer blade at the back. Everything is controled with hydraulics. I spent alot of time designing it but I'm happy how it works, average workimg speed is 8 km/h

Thank you - that is an amazing piece of equipment. Both design and craftmanship. The hydraulic rear dozer blade and rippers makes it so versatile.

gg

 

[Williy]

O:n our land plane the blade next to the tractor is straight across
and the blade behind it is on an angle which helps to bring the
soil from the edge to the center

willy

 

[Chuckanut]

My land plane is 60 inches wide and about 60 inches long. Like many, I wasn't sure how to position the cross blades, but I knew I didn't want them at a 90° angle to the runners. Placing them at 90° assumes that the dirt will not move to the proper low areas. Instead, angling the blades pushes the dirt across the blade, piling it up at one end before it drops over and is pushed back across the blade on the backside, continually filling the low spots. Finally, a 90° cross blade blends out any lumps or piles that slid over the blades.

I made the blades bolt-in so I could change, repair, or redesign them if needed. I've heard of many people having their cross beams bent or broken by rocks in the dirt. Each cross blade is secured with two 5/8” grade 8 bolts on each side.

My design is a mix of what I had available and what I could buy. The three-point attachment is a simple 3-point slip hitch mount from online. The round upper tubes were pieces of metal left on the property by the previous landowner. Most of the other parts are cut-offs and mill cut-offs that I purchased at a discount.

Hope this helps