Land plane blade mounts ?

[jwmorris]

I built these out of a box blade, this one works great for moving material and I used an electric trailer jack so I could use it with a fixed draw bar but on the 3pt is much faster.

It had a floating rear blade, so it cut a lot better than smooth as a box blade. I used the rear baldw hinge, as the hinge for the rear wheels.

The load binder is to adjusting for the crown angle you want.

The 3pt and rippers, I turned into a landplane with 6x6x3/8 angle, 1/4" plate and added 3/8" thick replaceable skids on the bottom.

Ball to drag a 3500 lb roller behind, on back.

Blade depth adjustment but I always run it at a 1/2" down.

I really didn't like that box blade, after I bought it. Turns out to be the best $250 I've spent in awhile.

 

[BFreaky]

I've made it adjustable, works much better this way.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Very nice work there !!

I've made it adjustable, works much better this way.

Very nice work there !! I'd like to see more pics of your build. Seems there should be some good ideas in them,

gg

 

[BFreaky]

I developed my own concept with rippers at the front to help loosen hard packed ground, adjustable blades in the middle and a dozer blade at the back. Everything is controled with hydraulics. I spent alot of time designing it but I'm happy how it works, average workimg speed is 8 km/h

 

[Gordon Gould]

I developed my own concept with rippers at the front to help loosen hard packed ground, adjustable blades in the middle and a dozer blade at the back. Everything is controled with hydraulics. I spent alot of time designing it but I'm happy how it works, average workimg speed is 8 km/h

Thank you - that is an amazing piece of equipment. Both design and craftmanship. The hydraulic rear dozer blade and rippers makes it so versatile.

gg

 

[Williy]

O:n our land plane the blade next to the tractor is straight across
and the blade behind it is on an angle which helps to bring the
soil from the edge to the center

willy

 

[Chuckanut]

My land plane is 60 inches wide and about 60 inches long. Like many, I wasn't sure how to position the cross blades, but I knew I didn't want them at a 90° angle to the runners. Placing them at 90° assumes that the dirt will not move to the proper low areas. Instead, angling the blades pushes the dirt across the blade, piling it up at one end before it drops over and is pushed back across the blade on the backside, continually filling the low spots. Finally, a 90° cross blade blends out any lumps or piles that slid over the blades.

I made the blades bolt-in so I could change, repair, or redesign them if needed. I've heard of many people having their cross beams bent or broken by rocks in the dirt. Each cross blade is secured with two 5/8” grade 8 bolts on each side.

My design is a mix of what I had available and what I could buy. The three-point attachment is a simple 3-point slip hitch mount from online. The round upper tubes were pieces of metal left on the property by the previous landowner. Most of the other parts are cut-offs and mill cut-offs that I purchased at a discount.

Hope this helps