Land plane dimensions

[Yamezz]

I've previously built a land plane for my X495, which is 1,310mm wide x 1,500mm long. I want to build a bigger one for my JD3720. All the ones I can see, regardless of their width, are quite short. Tell me why I shouldn't build one 1,625mm wide (the rear track of my machine) x at least 1,800mm. The rear of 3 blades on my current one is at the rear of the plane, and I would do the same on the new one. I figure the longer the blade span, the flatter I will get my road (without small undulations).
Why are store-bought planes so short?

 

[bcp]

I've wondered that, too.

An exception: Priefert used to sell one that was about 7 feet long. I don't know if they made it, or some else did.



Bruce

 

[oosik]

My Land Pride GS2584 is short and wide also. Only reason I can think - saves on materials - customers don't realize that longer will work better - shorter gets the overall size down so it "fits" smaller tractors.

If my Land Pride were 7 feet long plus its already 7 feet wide - that's a h e l l of a lot of swinging weight out back. Could also relate to overall clearance issues and potential damage to the 3-point system.

Who knows - ??? It is what it is.

 

[Fallon]

The longer it is the less contour it can adapt to. So effectively longer = smoother & flatter. But at some point material cost outweighs the extra smoothing. I assume the OEMs thing that length works well enough for most use cases.

My LandPride is around 5' long. Works well. I'm sure longer would make things flatter, but it works just fine for driveway maintnance stuff. Haven't used it for land leveling. Have a berm I made a long time ago I need to smooth out s bit. Need to throw the LPGS at it one of these days.

 

[Yamezz]

So, I've built my new plane. Some info and pictures, to show either what to do :thumbsup: or what not to do! :thumbdown: depending on your point of view

It's 1,625mm wide overall and 1,800mm long (plus the upturned ends). The skids are bulit from 2 metre lengths of 180x75mm galvanised PFC. The tube frame is 50x4mm galvanised SHS. The blades are 75x6mm mild steel angle, set at a 10 degree angle for the first two. I was going to use stainless angle, but it was going to be three times the price. The blades are bolted to angle iron carriers, so they can be mounted either on top of the carriers (as per currently, where the blades do not protrude below the skids) or underneath the carriers, giving just under 20mm of protrusion below the skids.
Total weight is 163kg. It was built for my 3720, but my X495 just manages it too.

 

[Bigpuddie]

Looks very nice. Good job. ^^^

 

[Fallon]

How did you galvanize it? Or was the raw material galvanized before you got it? Know it can be very unhealthy to weld.

 

[Yamezz]

It was galv stock. Oh yeah, smokes and spit 'n sparks and carries on when you weld it. The tube is OK, but the PFC is awful, even after grinding it back a bit.

 

[gillesdumais]

how did it work finally. i changed my L2501 for MX6000 so my homemade grader is 60'' wide by 60'' long and new tractor coming 73'' . So i have to build another one. i was planning to build like your with grader blade in the middle. dimension planned 74'' wide by 72'' long or 78'' long for leveling my land for seedling grasse eventually. what would you recommend me for dimension and other innovations ?

 

[Yamezz]

What would you recommend me for dimension and other innovations ?

I think the longer you make the plane the better, if your intention is to grade the flattest you can. The features I find valuable are:

* An adequate supporting surface to stop the blade sinking too far in soft soil. I used PFC in my last build to help spread the weight of the plane and on my first build I added angle iron 'wings' to the tube frame to help support the plane. Too little support and the plane can fill up like a box blade, requiring constant input to the height of the plane to get a smooth surface. I have built three planes over the years, all with three 'blades', so I don't know if the above is an issue with single-blade planes. Perhaps others can offer their experience.

* Angled leading and trailing edges to prevent digging in. Having angled edges on both ends allows the plane to be pushed or pulled and glide over an unexpected root. I promptly busted the first plane I built as I snagged on a root just below the surface.

* A frame to enable the plane to be maneuvered with the FEL bucket. This allows you to quickly do a small job without having to change 3-point implements. It's also useful to move the plane and transport it. Often I will drive the tractor to a job with the box blade on the rear and the plane on the bucket.

* The frame also allows you to add weight to the plane when needed. I find the weight of the plane alone is enough to use in soft soil, but extra weight is sometimes needed in the first couple of passes over a compacted driveway.

It looks like you have the last point covered in the photo you posted.

 

[Fallon]

.

* A frame to enable the plane to be maneuvered with the FEL bucket. This allows you to quickly do a small job without having to change 3-point implements. It's also useful to move the plane and transport it. Often I will drive the tractor to a job with the box blade on the rear and the plane on the bucket.

SSQA to 3pt adapter. I welded a Quick Hitch to a SSQA plate. Let's you easily carry any 3pt implement around for loading or transport. Made a 2nd after the first one ran off with my old tractor (was the mount for my snow plow).

All of your implements need to be QH compatible though. But modifying them so they are is a good idea anyway. It does mean you can end up at a job with no bucket though.

 

[workinallthetime]

I am in the process of scavaging the material to build one of these myself. My last and probably the hardest thing to make a decision on is what to build the side plates out of. The unit will be used for the most part on my gravel driveway which has several hills and valleys.
Do you guys think there is a significant advantage in the length say from going to 4 foot to 5 foot of should I consider 6 foot?
For the blades, I have 2 used cutting edges off of fairly large machines. The blades will be backed up by 4" x 1/4" angle. Does a third blade at the end work well?

 

[gillesdumais]

i am planning to build one eventually as well and GS2572 is a good exemple of well designedLandshark Also. if i do i will use 1/4 or 3/8 side plane the heavier would be the better and 5 foot long at maximum to save the 3 point if it swing and turning also as most model available are 4' long approx. and i would build it with 2 blades only without scarifier

 

[workinallthetime]

I was able to score a 12 foot long 15" wide by 1/4" piece today cheap. This was the final scrap I needed to start the project.
I have found serious bargains by asking for "drops" at a steel shop. Some shops are not interested and act as if you asked for a picture of their wife, others don't mind. I have found it helps to let them know this is a "little project" I am working on at home.

 

[jenkinsph]

how did it work finally. i changed my L2501 for MX6000 so my homemade grader is 60'' wide by 60'' long and new tractor coming 73'' . So i have to build another one. i was planning to build like your with grader blade in the middle. dimension planned 74'' wide by 72'' long or 78'' long for leveling my land for seedling grasse eventually. what would you recommend me for dimension and other innovations ?View attachment 685337

For the MX 6000 I would build it 8ft wide if used primarily for field smoothing. Reasoning that wider dimensions allow for better averaging of the ground. If you run at a right angle on the second trip across the field it does a better job correcting any dips or mounds.

Here are two I built about 10 years ago and still use. First is 8' x 5' for my 60 hp tractor the second is a 4' x 5' for my x749.

 

[jenkinsph]

I built the 8' first and used wide flange beam for the skids. That was okay but I did learn by using. The box tubing does not hold the gravel so less likely to drop gravel on the lawns.

Height of cross bracing frame work should allow good clearance for junk to pass through. My next plane is a larger one with 12" ht skids using 12" x 3" box tubing heavy wall. The skids will be about 8' long and the frame will be 14' wide with grader blades in both directions.
About as big as I want to deal with and can load cross ways on a trailer for transport.

 

[workinallthetime]

Nice looking build!
thoughts on not angling the blades? Most of the production units are sitting around 10 degrees which is what I plan on doing. This will primarily be used for driveway maintenance so I went with a 72" width to help maintain and build the crown.

 

[Fallon]

Nice looking build!
thoughts on not angling the blades? Most of the production units are sitting around 10 degrees which is what I plan on doing. This will primarily be used for driveway maintenance so I went with a 72" width to help maintain and build the crown.

Angled blades won't move material sideways, even if you tilt the whole LPGS. So the main function is to avoid washboard. Any bumps only hit a part of the blade at any time giving it more effective force. With a heavy enough implement that mitigates that a bit. But angling the blade is cheaper than steel & about as effective.

 

[gillesdumais]

here is my old grader with the blade straigth not tilted

 

[workinallthetime]

Good info, today was a long day of cutting and welding.
I have never used one so all info is good info. I have to remove my BH to attach the 3 Point lift arms so I do not use the 3 point very often. I found that my box blade works well for rough maintenance but the dressing is always done with my 72" bucket in the FEL.
One thing I have noticed in every video is that the rear blade's job is more of a "wiper" than a cutter.