Box Scraper Land plane help .
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Rustyiron
Super Member
At least the width of your tractor, and depending on your driveways "hardness" you could probably handle more. If you maintain a crown, that should be a consideration. A narrow enough blade or a wide enough driveway will allow you a pass in each direction to help shape or maintain a crown. They just don't carry that much material and the "cut" isn't much either.
MtnViewRanch
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In reality, a 6 footer as heavy as you can afford as well as as long as you can find.
Just my :2cents:
My tractor is a little over 6ft wide . There is no crown to speak of on the driveway. I has a pretty good base in most of it . Just a few bad places where it holds water then we get a good rain . My driveway is about 14 wide I believe.
fried1765
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"Just a few bad places where it holds water when we get a good rain"
You need a rear blade, and some time learning to use it!
If you build and keep a crown, you will have none of those "bad places".
I know how to use one . Just have not had a tractor the last 10 years or so . I guess my real question was how large of a plane can a 40hp4x4 handle ? Found a deal on a 10ft plane . Just have a feeling it’s to big for my tractor.
MtnViewRanch
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It seems like everyone has different conditions that they work with, so no correct answer for anyone without knowing ALL THE FACTS. Is your tractor ballasted, how much does it actually weigh? I have a 7 footer that weighs 1400lbs and at times it is all my 13,000lb tractor wants.
Now knowing that your tractor is over 6 foot wide (AG tires at full width?) I now recommend a 7 foot unit, but probably around 1000lbs. A heaver unit would work for you, you may need to hold it up though vs just letting it ride on the ground.
It was mentioned earlier that these LPGS don't carry much material. If the moisture content is right, mine will easily carry 1 1/2 - 2 cubic yards of dirt.
While a rear blade is a great implement to have and the best implement to shape a road, I have found that for me anyway, my LPGS cuts my general road maintenance by more than half.
Just another :2cents:
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metalbender
Veteran Member
A ten foot blade would anchor your tractor pretty good if it hits a soft spot. Six ft is plenty.
The tractor I’m working with . Wouldn’t really call them ag tires .It seems like everyone has different conditions that they work with, so no correct answer for anyone without knowing ALL THE FACTS. Is your tractor ballasted, how much does it actually weigh? I have a 7 footer that weighs 1400lbs and at times it is all my 13,000lb tractor wants.
Now knowing that your tractor is over 6 foot wide (AG tires at full width?) I now recommend a 7 foot unit, but probably around 1000lbs. A heaver unit would work for you, you may need to hold it up though vs just letting it ride on the ground.
It was mentioned earlier that these LPGS don't carry much material. If the moisture content is right, mine will easily carry 1 1/2 - 2 cubic yards of dirt.
While a rear blade is a great implement to have and the best implement to shape a road, I have found that for me anyway, my LPGS cuts my general road maintenance by more than half.
Just another :2cents:
seville009
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saw the thread title and just wanted to check to see if you landed safely yet.........
PaxMan
Member
10ft land pride is far too large in my opinion. The absolute max I would even consider is 9ft. and that's pushing it awful far on a gooood deal. I've got a Woods GSS72P w/ scarifiers which is 72" and quite frankly I don't think I'd go any bigger than 84". I have not needed the scarifiers unless ripping up dirt.
I use mine on my driveway which is about 950ft. long and leveling dirt. I just moved and leveled over 80 ton of dirt for a guy and he just called to have me come back for some more. Lol
Keeping a good crown will significantly reduce driveway maintenance while reducing the need for more gravel. I pull the gravel in from the edges of my drive every year with my rear blade. Then build the crown back up with the blade. After doing this I run down one side with the land plane and back down the other to mix the gravel and fines back together. Works like a charm and haven't had any need to add gravel in 5 years. Nothing beats having a land plane for your gravel drive. Another thing I壇 highly suggest is a hydraulic top link. If you've got any further questions, feel free to ask.
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oosik
Epic Contributor
I have a mile long driveway. Straight as an arrow and composed of: gravel, sand, silt & volcanic ash. After the spring rains - it hardens up like concrete. Any summer "land planing" requires that I also use the scarifiers. I have a Land Pride GS 2584 @ 800#. There ARE times I wish it weighed around 1200#.
The LPGS will smooth out the few pothole that develop during the fall to spring season. If more aggressive action is required - then my Rhino rear blade is used. My land plane does not move that much material - horizontally. It certainly WILL NOT create a crown on my driveway. I totally rely on my Rhino rear blade for crowning and any major modifications. Rhino 950 - 96" - 1050#.
I would suggest the heaviest seven foot LPGS you can find and with scarifiers( if your driveway "hardens up" in the summer). If you should find a heavy six footer that would be OK also.
The idea that the LPGS MUST be wider than your rear tires is a pure fallacy. Come on folks - we are grinding up the surface of a gravel driveway. A few tractor tire tracks is not going to defeat the project. I work to maintain a reliable driving surface - not a pool table.
Like others have mentioned - a hydraulic top link is a real joy to use when dealing with land engagement implements.
The LPGS will smooth out the few pothole that develop during the fall to spring season. If more aggressive action is required - then my Rhino rear blade is used. My land plane does not move that much material - horizontally. It certainly WILL NOT create a crown on my driveway. I totally rely on my Rhino rear blade for crowning and any major modifications. Rhino 950 - 96" - 1050#.
I would suggest the heaviest seven foot LPGS you can find and with scarifiers( if your driveway "hardens up" in the summer). If you should find a heavy six footer that would be OK also.
The idea that the LPGS MUST be wider than your rear tires is a pure fallacy. Come on folks - we are grinding up the surface of a gravel driveway. A few tractor tire tracks is not going to defeat the project. I work to maintain a reliable driving surface - not a pool table.
Like others have mentioned - a hydraulic top link is a real joy to use when dealing with land engagement implements.
PaxMan
Member
I agree. This implement really isn't that useful when trying to build a crown. The only way I could honestly see this being possible is if you could adjust your skids further down on one side than the other or a hydraulic sidelink. I've tried adjusting my sidelink and it honestly wasn't worth a ****. I'll stick with my blade for crowning.
Smokeydog
Elite Member
My 6’ EA land plane behind my 59hp 4x4 tractor on my steep, curvy road is all the tractor can handle at times. Adequately covers driveway 12-20 wide. Both crown and bevel.
It might not matter to you but stays on my tractor at times as counter weight for loader work. A wide implement would be awkward.
It might not matter to you but stays on my tractor at times as counter weight for loader work. A wide implement would be awkward.
oosik
Epic Contributor
My Rhino rear blade @ 1050# is my counter weight on the 3-point. I can't remember a time when having the 96" wide blade on the rear has been a problem. My property is - more or less - wide open. Stands of P. pine and acres of bunch grass.
I guess if I ever needed to get in and among the pines - turn the rear blade 90 degrees and lock it down.
I could use my LPGS. It's got the weight ( 800# ) but it's also has a massive foot print. I could see getting "locked in" in a stand of pines with the LPGS on the 3-point.
I guess if I ever needed to get in and among the pines - turn the rear blade 90 degrees and lock it down.
I could use my LPGS. It's got the weight ( 800# ) but it's also has a massive foot print. I could see getting "locked in" in a stand of pines with the LPGS on the 3-point.
Probably going to just borrow my buddies land plane . He has a 8 or 9 ft Armstrong. If I like the way it works for me I will buy one . If I don’t like it I might go the blade route .
oosik
Epic Contributor
THAT is the best of all worlds. You will get to see exactly what a LPGS can/can not do. Fact - the LPGS is perhaps the easiest land engagement implement to learn/use. The rear blade - not so much. The rear blade will do many, many tasks but it DOES take quite a bit of practice to get good.
I've been using a rear blade since 1982. I would say that I'm pretty good with it. However - there are still those times when I have to spend addition time/effort to get things right.
A suggestion - if your driveway is crowned. Don't drag the LPGS right down the center. While the LPGS will not create a crown - it surely can reduce/lower the existing crown. Best approach - up one side, back down the other. The inboard edge of the LPGS only just reaching the center of the driveway on the passes in each direction. This is why most suggest that you purchase a LPGS that is only half as wide as your driveway.
Anyhow - have fun, good luck.
I've been using a rear blade since 1982. I would say that I'm pretty good with it. However - there are still those times when I have to spend addition time/effort to get things right.
A suggestion - if your driveway is crowned. Don't drag the LPGS right down the center. While the LPGS will not create a crown - it surely can reduce/lower the existing crown. Best approach - up one side, back down the other. The inboard edge of the LPGS only just reaching the center of the driveway on the passes in each direction. This is why most suggest that you purchase a LPGS that is only half as wide as your driveway.
Anyhow - have fun, good luck.
