Land Pride grading scraper

[Tomtint]

I have a 72 Befco that I pull behind a L3700. I need to maintain 2800 feet of dirt / stone dust road. After a few years of doing the job with the bucket on my skid steer. The land planer is by far the better option

 

[caspar3259]

For a road with pot holes, ruts, and an inverse crown (center of road is a rut from water run off and is lower than the sides) would you suggest:
A) using only a box blade
B) use only the grading scraper
C) use box blade first, followed by the grading scraper

-Jeff

 

[Tomtint]

For a road with pot holes, ruts, and an inverse crown (center of road is a rut from water run off and is lower than the sides) would you suggest:
A) using only a box blade
B) use only the grading scraper
C) use box blade first, followed by the grading scraper

-Jeff

I have this same issue, with the hills I have there is no way to eliminate the constant grading from rain erosion but I think the best way is to use the land leveler and the use a blade to crown it. If you have something to compact it when you are done, itcan't hurt

 

[Gordon Gould]

I would use my rear blade first then my grading scraper. If you need to move material across the road, from sides to middle in this case, a rear blade is the tool to use. The others will do it (sort of) but not nearly as well as a rear blade.
I know I didn't answer your question. If you were limited to a box blade and grading scraper I think I would try the scraper first if it had angled blades. Alot depends on how wide your road is and what the material is. Some claim a box blade works good for this but I always had trouble trying to move the edge to the center with one.

 

[crazyal]

Much of my apprehension purchasing this grader was due to watching the two videos floating around on youtube of the unit in action. Imo, both the Kubota dealer vid and the Everything Attachments vid both portray the grader in a rather unimpressive light. In both videos it appears to me that it would take an unusually long time to grade a road using this grader when, at least in my circumstances, nothing could be further from the truth. Perhaps it's just me but when both the blades load up with cascading gravel it's symphonic.

I watched a couple of the videos and found that looked like they didn't know how to correctly operate the grader (maybe learning) and another one was the smallest lightest one made and it was just bouncing along and somehow managed to get the job done. Maybe someone here can take a good video and post it on YouTube.

 

[caspar3259]

I would use my rear blade first then my grading scraper. If you need to move material across the road, from sides to middle in this case, a rear blade is the tool to use.

The road is hard-packed dirt with little gravel left. About 20 feet wide. That's why I was thinking a box scraper with teeth down to get things loosened up and get the big stuff smoothed out, then the land grader to finish it off. Or maybe the box blade by itself will get it smooth enough. Hopefully once the main repair is done it could be more easily maintained by the land grader.

Would a rear blade be able to handle the hard-packed dirt? Seems like a job for scarifying teeth.

-Jeff

 

[Tomtint]

I have not had much luck with just the rear blade. It will fill the holes but I think you need to loosen up the road and reshape the problem areas where potholes develop, the rippers do a good job at that. Also the weight and length of the leveler make it easy to get rid of washboard areas,where the blade may just follow the terrain.

 

[jenkinsph]

The road is hard-packed dirt with little gravel left. About 20 feet wide. That's why I was thinking a box scraper with teeth down to get things loosened up and get the big stuff smoothed out, then the land grader to finish it off. Or maybe the box blade by itself will get it smooth enough. Hopefully once the main repair is done it could be more easily maintained by the land grader.

Would a rear blade be able to handle the hard-packed dirt? Seems like a job for scarifying teeth.

-Jeff

I would recommend a rearblade to recover materials moved to the edges and to shape the crown. A landplane/grader with ripper teeth to handle the smoothing and rip up potholes. These two tools should fix most everything.

 

[Jaylegger]

I watched a couple of the videos and found that looked like they didn't know how to correctly operate the grader (maybe learning) and another one was the smallest lightest one made and it was just bouncing along and somehow managed to get the job done. Maybe someone here can take a good video and post it on YouTube.

I made a similar comment about that video a few weeks ago, the way it was bouncing around didn't leave me feeling all that confident about using it. In fairness however the shanks were down which was causing the erratic behavior.
I have another road to grade and perhaps I'll do a short vid but there's no guarantee that will be "good" either. When using mine (without shanks) the weight of the unit alone keeps it solidly on the ground, when loaded with some gravel it's part of it.

 

[Jaylegger]

For a road with pot holes, ruts, and an inverse crown (center of road is a rut from water run off and is lower than the sides) would you suggest:
A) using only a box blade
B) use only the grading scraper
C) use box blade first, followed by the grading scraper

-Jeff

Tomorrow I'll be going out to see how well I can crown and slope portions of the road with the Landpride. Each side of the cutter can be set independently thereby allowing one side to be adjusted higher or lower than the other. In theory and if the manual is to be believed this should, at the very least, aid in creating a crown. If adjusting the grader blades does work for crowning/sloping/moving material from one side to the other then I won't need my boxblade anymore.

Previously when using the boxblade I found it quite effective in creating slopes and crowns, it will be interesting to see how the Land-Pride grader fairs. My gut feeling is the blades aren't angled enough to force the material to move from one side of the grader to the other efficiently, I hope I'm wrong.

I suppose if the grader blades aren't angled quite enough I could adjust the hitch arms to swing the unit far to the right as this effectively increases the angle of the unit substantially, that's how I using the boxblade when crowning/sloping accompanied with adjusting the lower link to tip up far side.