Land Pride grading scraper

[Jaylegger]

Next to the boxblade the Land-Pride blade looks like it's aluminum and that's exactly how I would expect a soft mild steel to behave not the hardened high carbon variety. The wear of the blade just doesn't seem quite right here but don't want to approach my dealer or Land-Pride half-cocked.

 

[jenkinsph]

I am no metalurgist but that does seem like lots of wear for five hours of use. Looking at the ripper tooth I would consider going over all the teeth with a hard surfacing rod such as Stellite.

 

[Jaylegger]

I am no metalurgist but that does seem like lots of wear for five hours of use. Looking at the ripper tooth I would consider going over all the teeth with a hard surfacing rod such as Stellite.

I visited the owner of a local metal/fabrication/repair shop and brought in a photo of the wear. He feels the blade likely is an example of steel not tempered or quenched correctly or not in spec for the intended application, or simply just more junk from China . He also advised he could run a hard surface bead along the edge to improve the wear quality. I'll contact Land-Pride first to see what they have to say.

 

[BlueChips]

...the wear witnessed so far appears abnormal and not what I'd expect for a quality blade...

I'm new to this forum, but not to farm equipment. Here are a couple of thoughts:

I own a Land Pride GS1572 Grading Scraper, and so far I'm very pleased with the way the blades are holding up. I've put roughly 30 to 35 hours on the scraper in a variety of very rocky soil and road conditions here in Maine, and the blades still look very good, with much less wear and tear than I expected. I've also used the scarifiers a fair amount, and they still look good.

Other factors besides metal composition can affect the longevity of the blades, such as the mass, shape, hardness, toughness, and texture of the rocks that they strike, how firmly embedded the rocks happen to be, how numerous the rocks are, the mass of the scraper, how fast the scraper is moving when the blades strike rocks, etc.

I'm quite conservative when it comes to operating speed. I always try to use my equipment at speeds that I consider safe, efficient, and easy on the equipment. It appears to me that when ground engaging equipment is operated at higher-than-optimum speeds, the cutting edges seem to accumulate more damage or wear relative to the amount of work done, due perhaps to increased linear momentum and greater collision energy with rocks or other obstacles.

I don't know the speeds at which you operate your scraper, and I could not venture a guess as to what your optimum grading speeds would be for highest safety, efficiency, or blade longevity, since I am not familiar with your specific operating conditions and equipment. However, you may want to research the topic carefully. Perhaps the manufacturer has some technical support people who could give you some suggestions regarding operating speeds or other factors.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Boy I hope they haven't gone the chinese route. I worked for a company that made precision heavy industrial equipment that relied on big US made castings. We were top of the line in quality and reliability for over 50 years. Then we tried to get the castings made in china. The product turned to crap. It was shameful watching customers getting burned because they believed in our past reputation. And it was embarrassing for me to go out in the field and work on the junk and face the enraged customers.

 

[davcog]

The Dr. Power Grader looks more like an implement for a garden tractor or ATV. If you've got a CUT I'd stick with the big boy implements like the Duragrader or similar like my Land Pride.
Dr works well for what it is. Two suggestions 1) Go with the 5ft wide model 2) Modify to get longer teeth on scraper.

 

[irvingj]

I've finally used the DR Power Grader!

After removing seven 4x8 trailerloads of brush (from our ice storm), I had the time to try it out yesterday. Had some issues with the "keyhole" hitch that drops over my trailer ball --found I couldn't back up very well-- I switched to the alternate pin-type attachment.

As my area is a bit cramped, I really needed to be able to back up reliably and accurately. The pin hitch solved this.

The driveway wasn't in terrible shape, but was beginning to get some ruts and several annoying high spots. The DR Power Grader handled it just fine, though I did use 4wd while going uphill on the steep part of the driveway.

It was able to dig down 2" or more without too much trouble, and the grading function worked quite well to level things out. It was also easily able to pop out the odd 5" stone. The remote height adjustment worked very well, if a bit slow... it was great to be able to "feather in" the grader at the beginning of a pass, then gradually raise it at the end; pretty slick; worked well. I also used my FEL in float as a back-dragger in a couple of spots; it and the DR grader worked well together.

Probably my GC2310 could have handled the Land Pride unit OK, but the DR grader seems to fit the bill for now. I only worked it for an hour or so --black flies are HORRIBLE this year!-- and will hit it some more later on. Right now, though, driveway looks a lot better!

 

[kubotal3130]

I am getting ready to pick up the GS1560 today. The guy that is selling the implement told me I have the option to add scarifyer to my 7' woods rake. I think this would be a much cheaper option although I really like the looks of the Landpride GS. What do you think? I would be using this implement for grading my driveway and leveling ground/loam.

 

[wijmcinwi]

Has anyone found an alternative source for the Shear Pin Bolts on the DR Power Grader ?

For a package of seven (7), they charge $ 19.95, plus $ 7.95 shipping, or a total of $ 27.90.

Is $ 4.00 per shear bolt a reasonable price, or is there an equivalent alternative source ?

Thank you.

 

[jenkinsph]

irvingj,
Looks good, glad that worked out for you.:thumbsup: