Landplane possible build

[FredH]

We use 3/4 crushed blue shale on our driveway which somewhat resembles yours , flat to start but goes to 14% grade for last 1/3 of 800+ foot driveway . As noted by others , to much rock without being compacted or rolled , Basically Sucks . Been there , Done That , Just Last Summer .

My blades are angled at 10 degrees with a pitch of 45 .



Old photo's of mine , before completion and after first test run . Added additional bracing , 3 point to back , etc... , just took these after first test before I got to far .

The only way I was able to correct wash boarding in one area that had never experienced problems before , was to scrape off maybe 1/2 a pick up load over about 100' length in trouble spot . Ended up being maybe actually 2 to 2 1/2 bucket loads on my TC 30 of rocked I scraped down and off drive . Problem has not returned since . Truck operator had no gate chains on his truck , thus when he was dumping / spreading and started up the hill , BOOM , rock went from 1.5" / 2" thick to almost 5" . My first passes moved a lot farther uphill , then I moved some all down to the end by highway . Regardless were I spread that other though , it jut ended up being to thick for that given area , So finally it went into the dirt on the side and no issue's since .

Fred H.

 

[jenkinsph]

Your first paragraph correctly describes what I have. I already talked to the rock man....who has an extremely good reputation in this area....I'm going to talk to him again. But first I need to get some of this gravel spread out. Once spread, I probably will put a 'fine' load on the grade after the culvert.

As to the angle. My 28 front and 55 back is off since it should equal 90. I used an inclinometer app on a smartphone to measure. But...do know the blade is slanted more than your 45....probably more like 35. Would the steeper angle grab more gravel, or less? How far apart are your angle blades? I've pretty much decided I'll drill multiple holes in the mounting plates for the blade supports to give me quarter inch below and above the runners as will as even. And yes, I intend to try and spread this gravel more using different techniques with the TNT.

I don't think changing the angle will have much effect on how much gravel you grab. The land plane skids control the amount of bite you get and will be the determining factor, a rear blade would be a different matter.

My blades are set straight on my land planes for lawn and field leveling. That said I think it is important to have the front blade close enough to the leading edge of the skids that tilting forward allows you to get a bite. I don't have the measurements handy as we speak but will guess about 6 inches of the skids protrude in front of the blade. The blades can be set apart about 24 to 36 inches depending on your design without much issue, I don't see this as a critical dimension. As Gordon mentioned clearance between the cross frame above the blade carriers below is more important. You wan't the material to have plenty of clearance to pass over the blade carriers.

For a home owner build without commercial use and the main focus on your driveway maintenance I would build a simple land plane. With the blades angled and set about 1/4" below the skids or flush. Since the plough bolts are 5/8" size it would be hard to make fine adjustments using multiple holes as these would have to be too far apart on centers vertically. You might also consider building it with the blades lower to try it out and then add the proper thickness of wear strips on the skids to fine tune. My first land plane was built with the blades set 1/4" below the skids, after using it for a few hours I decided to set the blades flush and added the 1/4" wear strips to bring the blades flush.

Planning and research is important but I wouldn't over think this. My thoughts after 5 years of use are that weight is important, having a rigid non flexing frame and having long enough skids are key. I use topntilt to adjust my land plane and it helps a lot.

 

[Whiskey Sniffer]

Regarding the UPS trucks we have deliveries 3 to 4 times a week and the trucks were destroying my asphalt drive, we now have a box at the end of the drive where all deliveries are made. Works great!

 

[jcummins]

Regarding the UPS trucks we have deliveries 3 to 4 times a week and the trucks were destroying my asphalt drive, we now have a box at the end of the drive where all deliveries are made. Works great!

I might consider that, what kind of box?

 

[jcummins]

Early after I first got this landplane, I put the forward point in the middle of the drive and tried to roll the rock …. Spreading the rock and widen the drive. It work…kind of…but not as well as I hoped. Today I tried that again, but this time I got aggressive. Using the tilt, lowered the center side a little, and loaded the landplane near full….tried to keep it that way. Had to feather the 3pt up/down a lot….but it worked, fairly well too. Bottom line, I figure out the landplane CAN be used to move rock sideways. AND…it does a very good job of leveling everything out. Looks a lot better. I’ll make another stab at buying this one, if not….I’ll be trying to get the metal this next week and get the project started. I know now, it is the attachment I need.

I also learned the reason for so much rock. This drive was built and paid for by the former owner….part of the purchase deal of this house. Well the drive was built to narrow…non intentional I think….but some mis communication between the dozer guy and the one paying for it (former owner). I complained about this, so the former owner had the rock man put more rock than normal on this drive with the intention of spreading it out and widen the drive. It was never done….not sure the reason. I never knew that…..but explains the ‘too much rock’ and the conditions we had this winter. But mute point now, since I did it. Actually both the former owner…and the rock guy….I like them both....good guys...so not really upset about this. On to the project.

 

[Whiskey Sniffer]

I might consider that, what kind of box?

Just a cheap plastic box from Home Depot hidden from the street view. You could build something and pad lock it I suppose the possibilities are endless.

 

[captjack]

I built mine with a heavy 1/2 in angle across the back so I could hang tractor weights on it for extra weight. having a few hundred more lbs holding it down seems to work good for me - I sold that one when I got my bigger tractor - I have metal in the shop to build two more and will work on it soon

 

[the whispering oaks farm]

I've added a 200 gal. water tank on to my landpride land plane, I needed a fire truck/portable water tender/additional weight. I will be adding a roller pump and a hose reel. I can add as much, or as little water as I need to be my counterweight. doubles as a water can for all the outlying fruit trees on my farm. I will be able to drop a hose into my pond to fill the tank, then switch a couple valves to change the direction of flow to do any spraying. It will also help when dragging the gravel drive in the summertime with the dust.

 

[jcummins]

The blades I have are 8ft long. What's everyone's opinion of making this 8ft wide versus 7ft? It would avoid cutting these which I bet are extremely hard.

Right now, 8ft seems too wide, not for the tractor but for the drive. Actually 6ft would be better for the drive, but need 7ft to cover the tractor tires.

Right now thinking I'll stick to 7ft.

 

[The Fred]

I have an 8 foot land plane similar to the one you show in your pix Jcummins. My drive is steep and BAD to the bone but after 27 years there we have laid down many loads of crusher run and the key to keeping it down is rolling it just after grading. The roller is one of my most used implements. The roller pushes the stones down in and the gravel lays out smooth as glass and the drive seems to stay better longer.

Regards, Fred