Landscape rake for removing rocks?

[dragoneggs]

I just bought a BX25D and Land Pride LR15 series landscape rake. Dealer said rake will do the job of removing the rocks but after getting it home and reading a bit I am not too sure. Anyone have experience with this method? Do I need the optional wheels? I have almost an acre to do of freshly cleared sloped terrain and alot of baseball and softball sized rocks that i would like to gather up and remove. Wondering also if LR15 is too heavy for BX25D? All comments welcome... newbie here.

 

[Carl_NH]

When I read your post title removing rocks - yes they do that too, but they really excel at raking surface rocks together into a pile. Yes on the wheels - they keep you from digging in too much and are really nice but pricey.

It will take a bit more practice and good hand on the 3PT lift to use it without wheels.

You can put an angle on it too and windrow 3-4 passes together then put your FEL down and scoop into piles and remove.

 

[dragoneggs]

Thanks Carl, yes I am really trying just to get the baseball/softball rocks out of the top 4 to 6 inches or so before I plant grass. I am not expecting a manicured lawn and don't want to bring in a bunch of top soil. I am on a slope and nervous about the whole ordeal of prepping the site for grass and eventual mowing and have some terracing to do in the steeper areas so hence the purchase of my new BX. I need the grass for erosion control and before the October rains hit the Pacific NW. As you can see by my join date and number of posts, I am just getting into this tractor stuff... been a 40 year old dream since my sandbox days!!!

Had someone come out with an excavator to clear quite a few maple trees, pull some large evergreen stumps and clear brush... maybe 3/4 acre. Now I have a skinned slope and a huge pile of debris. What have I done???

 

[jeff9366]

Here is the recommendation of York (brand) Rakes on gauge/caster wheels:

Do I Need Caster Wheels on my York Rake?​

As with any three-point hitch implement it is virtually impossible for it follow the grade relying solely on the three-point hitch of the tractor. Trying to follow the grade by constantly adjusting the three-point hitch can be tedious, if not impossible. They are just not designed to do this. Using this method also results in the implement doing the exact opposite of the tractors front wheels. As the wheels go in a hole, the implement comes off the ground and as they ride over a high spot, the implement digs in.

You have to be pretty quick on the three-point hitch lever to avoid this. Using an implement with caster wheels allows it to f��loat independently behind the tractor while following the contour of the ground. This is particularly important when you get to the raking stage of your site work. The best raking results will be achieved with the rake angled and the caster wheels properly adjusted.

When raking you want to adjust the caster wheels in the following manner. With the rake angled, you want the caster wheel closest to the tractor higher (off the ground); this allows it to penetrate a little more. The caster wheel farthest from the tractor should raise the rake so it is barely touching the ground. The difference in wheel height only needs to be about an inch, more if the soil is really soft and you want to screen more material. This adjustment allows the end of the rake closest to the tractor to dig a little harder than the end further from the tractor. This increases the vibrating action of the rake teeth improving the rakes screening action as the material moves across the front of the rake.

Rocks and debris will move into a windrow and the pulverized soil will pass between the rake teeth. Remember too, the faster you can go the better the vibrating action will be. The resulting screening action from a properly adjusted pair of caster wheels produces an ideal finished surface, ready for seeding or sod.

 

[Wolfy]

That was an excellent post from Jeff. I would add, if the area is uneven, I like to drive the tractor and rake in random figure 8s. That will get the ground level. Then you can windrow the rocks to one edge of the lawn, and remove them. Usually multiple passes will be needed, but it will come out nice.

 

[super55]

With my york when I had to clean rocks out of my food plots I went and removed every other tine off the rake and utilized it that way. It allowed me to dig deeper and only get the larger rocks that my tiller didn't like. Widening the spacing allowed me dig deeper without having the dirt buildup on the rake. Im not sure if you can do this with all rakes but mine was just removing a couple of bolts.

 

[gwdixon]

With my york when I had to clean rocks out of my food plots I went and removed every other tine off the rake and utilized it that way. It allowed me to dig deeper and only get the larger rocks that my tiller didn't like. Widening the spacing allowed me dig deeper without having the dirt buildup on the rake. Im not sure if you can do this with all rakes but mine was just removing a couple of bolts.

The method of removing every other tine is an excellent idea for screening the rocks for size.

Another idea is to shorten the top link all the way. That will allow the tines to scrape across the ground rather than dig in. To go to the extreme, use a short piece of chain for the top link - but that brings up other issues.

The extreme tilt method may allow for not using wheels. The 3PH should be all the way lowered to get a "float" effect and follow the contours of the area.

The problem with a rake is that it tends to gather soil along with the rocks - especially if there is any grass or hay debris involved.

 

[dragoneggs]

Okay I am sold on this forum already. Thanks jeff, wolf, super, and gw! So, it seems that the rake is the ticket, I need wheels, remove every other tine to start, and adjust the relative wheel height for imbalance. I was thinking of returning the rake because I looked at the spacing and figured this would be only good for finishing. Gonna keep it and get busy in a week when I finally get home from a business trip.

I am hearing York for brand but what about Land Pride? I have already purchased it and it appears to be very good quality. Is there any feature difference that might be important? Again I purchased the LR1560 which I now see as discontinued replaced by the LR1660.

 

[/pine]

I have a 60" Landpride rake and I get fantastic results just using my tilt cylinder to keep the rake parallel to the contour...does anyone use gauge wheel as well as (side) tilt adjustments?
one thing I did do was add box ends (1/4" diamond plate) that has eliminated the spoil trails...that eliminated making extra passes to clean up the trails...

 

[jeff9366]

Okay I am sold on this forum already.
Again I purchased the LR1560 which I now see as discontinued replaced by the LR1660.

When you post reasonably clear questions on this site you will get some good answers and some chaff. Not too hard to sort. Your questions are clear.

Don't be concerned about implement model changes. Implement "improvements" occur occasionally; usually, but not always, in a positive direction. Your dirt remains the same and is indifferent to the LATEST & GREATEST.

Early on in Marketing you are taught: Never try to sell anything unless it is marked NEW & IMPROVED or 25 CENTS OFF.

I think your dealer advised you well, the LR1560 is the right width and likely the optimum weight for your BX25D.

 

[jenkinsph]

I have used a landscape rake to rake up rocks and have removed overy other tine as mentioned. This helps with the larger rocks but leaves alot to be desired as the spacing is now about 3 inches between the tines.

It would be nice if someone would make a rake with 1" tines with 2" spaces between them and round points on the ends of them. Seems like that would hold less dirt and do a good job of collecting the larger rocks.

 

[DKCDKC]

I have an old commercial rake I got for junk value. I buy used when possible. I extend the top link when working soft or tilled soil and it digs in and pulls up rocks. You have to make multiple passes, but it works and windrows the stones. Of course the soil must be dry and well worked. For hard soil or when responding to stones that have worked to the surface, I shorten the top link and drag the rake to windrow the stones for pickup. I usually use an old ensilage fork to scoop them up and into a wagon. The angle on the rake is important, and experimentation usually helps.

A rake can actually do a lot of things, you just need to be creative with it.

 

[gwdixon]

A "York" is to rake as "Kleenex" is to tissue. It is just a name that stuck.

Your Landpride rake should do just fine. Don't get too frustrated at first. It takes some adjustments, training, and luck to get things just right.

If you can, post some photos of your situation. It is easier to make suggestions with visual stimulation.

 

[dragoneggs]

I have a 60" Landpride rake and I get fantastic results just using my tilt cylinder to keep the rake parallel to the contour...does anyone use gauge wheel as well as (side) tilt adjustments?
one thing I did do was add box ends (1/4" diamond plate) that has eliminated the spoil trails...that eliminated making extra passes to clean up the trails...

Any pics of the box ends? Did you add to both sides? I think I am going to need the ends clear at least until I reasonably clear the hand size boulders. Pretty rocky NW soil.

 

[dragoneggs]

Good stuff Jeff... I am looking to learn as much and as fast as I can. Being an engineer, I try to be clear and not too **** but **** is part of analysis. Kind of figured on the 1560 vs. 1660 being a nit but after seeing the difference between the BX25 and BX25D,, I thought I should ask. The 'improvements' and additions to the D would have pissed me off had I happen to bought the non D.

 

[dragoneggs]

A "York" is to rake as "Kleenex" is to tissue. It is just a name that stuck.

Your Landpride rake should do just fine. Don't get too frustrated at first. It takes some adjustments, training, and luck to get things just right.

If you can, post some photos of your situation. It is easier to make suggestions with visual stimulation.

Give me 10 days and I will post pics of the terrain and my rookie attempt at taming it. As I mentioned, I have some serious slope so it will be a challenge. I will be working on the easiest areas first of course! This is by far my biggest landscaping challenge ever!!! I have a few mods to do first and hope they arrive before I get home so I can get going on my backyard. Both Bro Tek items... wheel spacers and skid plates. BX arrived the day before I left on business so all I have been able to do is read the manual and spend a heck of a lot of hotel down time reading TBN posts! :thumbsup:

 

[jeff9366]

"York" is to rake as "Kleenex" is to tissue. It is just a name that stuck.

Ectually, I believe York Rakes were originally manufactured in York, Pennsylvania. Today company HQ is in New York state but that is a fairly recent change under new ownership.

Harley-Davidson is the big name manufacturer in York, Pennsylvania now.

York barbells/dumbells still manufactured in York, Pennsylvania too.

 

[PhysAssist]

Mr. Dragoneggs (cool name BTW),

As already mentioned, York rake = Landscape rake, and though there are brand specific differences, any name brand can be good, if the right price pops up.

Speaking of the mods you have planned, if I can put a bug in your ear to spend some of your hard-earned green (as so many others have done for fellow TBNers), think about getting a BXpanded Pirhana Toothbar.

We regraded our pond banks last summer exosing tons of shale, granite and other assorted rocks of all sizes, and the toothbar made both getting them to break free of the ground, and digging/loading them up much much easier. If you back drag it with the teeth angled right and the loader floated, it acts like a rake with significantly stronger pulling power.

For reviews of the BXPTB, search google with the phrase "www.tractorbynet.com: Piranha Toothbar"

As always your mileage may vary, and before I forget: Welcome to TBN!!

There is an amazing cross-section of tractor users from around the world on here and the depth of knowledge is really amazing.

As someone said before me, you asked very succinct questions and that always helps make the results more applicable to your specific situation.

Tractor safely (be especially careful on those slopes) and in good health
Thomas

 

[dragoneggs]

Mr. Dragoneggs (cool name BTW),

As already mentioned, York rake = Landscape rake, and though there are brand specific differences, any name brand can be good, if the right price pops up.

Speaking of the mods you have planned, if I can put a bug in your ear to spend some of your hard-earned green (as so many others have done for fellow TBNers), think about getting a BXpanded Pirhana Toothbar.

We regraded our pond banks last summer exosing tons of shale, granite and other assorted rocks of all sizes, and the toothbar made both getting them to break free of the ground, and digging/loading them up much much easier. If you back drag it with the teeth angled right and the loader floated, it acts like a rake with significantly stronger pulling power.

For reviews of the BXPTB, search google with the phrase "www.tractorbynet.com: Piranha Toothbar"

As always your mileage may vary, and before I forget: Welcome to TBN!!

There is an amazing cross-section of tractor users from around the world on here and the depth of knowledge is really amazing.

As someone said before me, you asked very succinct questions and that always helps make the results more applicable to your specific situation.

Tractor safely (be especially careful on those slopes) and in good health
Thomas

Thanks on all accounts, physAssist! This is the second forum that I have become addicted to because of the wealth of knowledge, prompt replies, and very friendly people. The first forum that I participated in was on reef aquariums, a hobby that you need lots of speciality advice and need to cast a wide net to get good help.

I will indeed be looking for some kind of ripper tooth after a little more research. I think I will find that as soon as I start using my rake, I will need a tooth to really do the complete job I am envisioning. One thing for sure, is that I better be productive and do a nice job since I sold this whole tractor idea on my loving wife based on getting our backyard finally 'scaped'. You know how it is... "Honey, we don't need to hire anybody... I can do this and save a lot of money!" Of course her rebuttal is, "Yeah I know, WHEN?" I have one more week before getting home and getting the mods done. Maybe I will already have a tooth ordered too. I have a weekend to hangout in my hotel and research :licking:

 

[Coolerman]

I have a Cat 1 Fred Cain Landscape Rake. The tines are individually adjustable for any spacing you like or can easily be removed. It is a 6' rake but I removed enough tines to make it about 50" so my BX2230D could pull it easier. To be honest, iit is really a bit too big for my small tractor.

To help remove rocks I removed every other tine for the first few passes on my bare lot to get the bigger stones into piles, removed those, then put the tines back on to get the smaller stones. I do have the gauge wheels but only used them later to help spread top soil at an even depth. At the time I really did not have enough experience to know how to properly use them! It's a very useful tool to prepare for seed.

Hope you have a place to put the rocks! I could not believe how much rock came out of a 1/2 acre piece of land!