Landscape rake how to?

wedge40 · Oct 13, 2008

I have a Leinbach landscape rake with no gage wheels. I'm trying to clear area of trees and such before bush hogging. My question is to get the greatest amount of "dig" should I lean the the front of the rake forward, backward or just keep it level. It looks like I could add gauge wheels if I wanted. I may have someone weld up something so I can hang another 100lbs or so on the rake. I really hate having to go over an area three or four times.

Wedge

Lloyd_E · Oct 13, 2008

I just started using mine. I find if you angle it back it is more progressive in terms of bitting into ground. But it gives less height when raised. I bush hogged first and later raked residue into burnable piles. Why are you raking before bush hogging? Curios?

Lloyd

wedge40 · Oct 14, 2008

Lloyd_E said:
I just started using mine. I find if you angle it back it is more progressive in terms of bitting into ground. But it gives less height when raised. I bush hogged first and later raked residue into burnable piles. Why are you raking before bush hogging? Curios?

Lloyd

I'm raking first because there are a lot of limbs and such that I want to gather up before bush hogging. After bush hogging I'm not sure if I'll rake or just till everything under.

Wedge

john_bud · Oct 14, 2008

The tilt is more important for moving and busting up dirt than collecting debris. Weight is what will help you the most with moving limbs and such. Add as much weight as you can and it will work better.

jb

wedge40 · Oct 14, 2008

Thats what I thought.. Now I just need to figure out how to add about 100lbs.

Wedge

Iplayfarmer · Oct 14, 2008

wedge40 said:
Thats what I thought.. Now I just need to figure out how to add about 100lbs.

Wedge

Post a picture of the back of your rake. I know mine looks like I could make a "receiver Hitch" type insert into the tubing of the framework and hang about whatever I want off of it.

AndyMA · Oct 14, 2008

wedge40 said:
I really hate having to go over an area three or four times.

Wedge

Get use to it. I've been using York type rakes for about 40 years and sometimes I will go over an area 20 times to get the finish and grade I desire.
I can't imagine other than a very coarse grade what you 'll get in one pass.

Andy

asylum575 · Oct 14, 2008

I'm working on a lawn project. What I've done is loosen everything up with the box blade. After the soil is nice and fluffy, I come over it with the rake.
It's not a one pass job. It looks better after every pass. You have to go
S-L-O-W and over it several times.

john_bud · Oct 14, 2008

wedge40 said:
Thats what I thought.. Now I just need to figure out how to add about 100lbs.

Wedge

If you can make a couple "baskets", one per side that mount behind the rake that would be good. Then you can fill until you get the result you need. Weight farther from the rear axle is better.

Iplayfarmer · Oct 15, 2008

As I understand, you're nottrying to landscape a lawn... You're just trying to pick up a bunch of sticks and branches so you can brush hog. Tip your rake up as much as you can (lengthen your top link) and add some weight. A few passes with the rake will clear up the bulk of the branches so that you can mow.

JonR · Oct 15, 2008

Tip your rake up as much as you can (lengthen your top link) and add some weight. A few passes with the rake will clear up the bulk of the branches so that you can mow.[/QUOTE]

If you have gauge wheels, should they be removed for brush clearing and picking up sticks and such?

Iplayfarmer · Oct 15, 2008

JonR said:
If you have gauge wheels, should they be removed for brush clearing and picking up sticks and such?

For brush clearing, etc. I can't see where the guage wheels would help you. If you have extra weight, remove them. If you don't have extra weight, just raise them all the way.

djradz · Oct 15, 2008

If there is much to pick up, you'll be at it for days. Plus, rakes are notorious for getting branches stuck in the tines. Unfortuneately, the stuff goes in easy as you tractor around, but getting the stuff loose can be a bear and pretty much ends up being a manual job you do by hand off the tractor.

Like some are questioning/suggesting, I'd brush hog first. You'll bust up much of the stuff and maybe even make some nice wood chips! In the end, there will be much less to have to rake up.

RobJ · Oct 15, 2008

These rakes don't "dig" that well....being springy and all. They will move around some loose dirt but that's about it.

Mine just floats on the ground and I make a few passes. It's a lightweight to because it's homemade.n It's a really neat tool!

Good Luck,
Rob

Iplayfarmer · Oct 15, 2008

I've got a weeping willow that hangs over one of my pastures, so you can guess that I am constantly dealing with trash branches. Any time I've brush hogged before raking, I've regretted it.

Raking gets rid of the bigger loose stuff. There's still plenty left to be eaten up by the brush hog. I always seem to hit the bigger branches just right so that they flip up and get caught in the ROPS, 3 pt., or worse: PTO Shaft.

pitt_md · Oct 16, 2008

wedge40 said:
I have a Leinbach landscape rake with no gage wheels. I'm trying to clear area of trees and such before bush hogging. My question is to get the greatest amount of "dig" should I lean the the front of the rake forward, backward or just keep it level. It looks like I could add gauge wheels if I wanted. I may have someone weld up something so I can hang another 100lbs or so on the rake. I really hate having to go over an area three or four times.

Wedge

I have the leinbach 7' rake with wheels. I have used it to clean up under pine trees clearing the dead braches and junk. i have just left the thing level and had good luck with it. If you have a lot of area to do make several piles and clean up with the FEL/grapple or what ever you have.

wedge40 · Oct 17, 2008

I found that I can purchase gauge wheels for about $300. I think I only payed about $300 for the rake. I'm not home till Sunday so sometime next week I'll post photos of my rake. I appreciate all the suggestions. I did mange to get a nice pile of debris that I can move with the my new grapple. I guess I'll have to figure out a way to add weight. If I get the gauge wheels I could hang stuff off those.

Wedge

intel · Oct 17, 2008

Robj i like your homemade looks good

RobJ · Oct 20, 2008

intel said:
Robj i like your homemade looks good

thanks, there was a rash of rake builds a while back so I had to jump in. NOT a fancy as the others, no hydraulics, it goes front or rear, that's all! But I have found it to be useful and works like its supposed to.

Here the original link.

Rob

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/124554-my-rake-build.html

jake98 · Oct 21, 2008

I'm no authority on this but I've had a york rake on a 53 cub for years. I think the rakes are made for smoothing topsoil, or if you're cheap like me, dirt. A more experienced operator once told me that you run it as fast as you can, and I think that's so that it stays fluid as you drag it.

jake

ps, as for adding weight, I can't see that. a rake with a load of dirt stops a tractor. but then, again, mine is on a cub.