Large Enclosed Trailers - Experience and Advice for towing on steep and rough roads

[Spanky100]

I would like to get some thoughts from those with experience towing large enclosed trailers on narrow roads that have steep climbs and down grades along with the quick transitions down grades to up grades. I would like to use a 8.5 by 24 enclosed car haul trailer in NE Tennessee back country roads but am concerned for trailer damage. All of these roads are paved but as you might expect have many steep up and down grades. The grades are short but have many turns and short transitions from down to up grades. Not class A roads for sure. Trailer is a 10,000 GVWR with two 5200 pound torsion axles with electric brakes and tow vehicle is a 3/4 HD 4x4 Crew Cab pickup. Likely the max trailer weight will be 8,000 pounds, well within the trailer and tow vehicle ratings but about the same weight as the tow vehicle. I have towed single axle boat trailers over the same roads. These trailers were under 3000 pounds and no longer than 16 feet and all seemed from memory to have higher ground clearance. Narrow road sections require both vehicle put right side tires on the side grass when meeting.

My initial concerns are with the enclosed car hauling type trailers low ground clearance and longer distance from the axles. Is is common for the trailer undercarriage to make road road contact when making a short transition from down to upgrades? The rear of trailer has support jack skids that are likely the first to make contact. Low hanging trees are a concern for trailer rash. What else can I learn from other experience?

Thanks

Wayne

 

[Diamondpilot]

I don't see a problem. I tow around Norris Lake and Dale Hollow all the time pulling 10,000# 34' and 8' 10" wide with my F150 Eco Boost. I also pull my 15,600# boat on a tri axle trailer that is 38' long and 9.5' wide with my 05 F350. Both are 13' 6" tall so trees and overhangs are a challenge.

Both trailers have disc brakes which are a major upgrade from the drums you most likely have.

I also hit Teleco Lake but it's not nearly as challenging as Norris.

Chris

 

[tcartwri]

You might look at a toy hauler style trailer, as they are typically a little higher off the ground. You will become acutely aware of your approach angles so as not to drag the tail on the pavement. I have travel trailer of the same dimensions which is very low to the ground, and there are definitely places I have had to avoid or do a go around. The grooves in the pavement are usually a good indicator....

Also measure the trailer height and put a label on the dash where you can see it. Don't forget the AC unit if it has one.

 

[terryknight]

i think you're going to have to try it on your roads. We do have a trailer right now 24 x 8.5 with two steel casters on the rear most part of the trailer, i haven't looked to see if they were a factory option or aftermarket install, but the are designed to take the weight (transfers it to the rear of the frame) and roll when the rear of the trailer will bottom out. i am out of state, but can get some pics when i get back in town. yes the rears can drag and yes i have bent one and no the casters won't always save you. they only work on hard, smooth surfaces

 

[Spanky100]

Thanks for the input. Sound like just take it slow and make another track if needed. I will look into changing out the rear support jack skids for wheels. terryknight if you can post some pictures that would be helpful. I will look for any grooves in the pavement on the worst section. tcartwri years ago I had a friend with a 8.5 by 32 travel trailer that was up higher than most. I think he said the trailer was built without using a standard (4 inch ?) drop axle. DP your 15,600 boat on a three axle trailer would be fun retrieving out of some of the steeper boat launches. We have one launch that, if my cell phone angle app is correct, is 30 degrees at the top and 20 degrees at the waters edge. The ramp surface is rough finished concrete and with the steep angle the truck tires never get into the water. I sure am happy to have a automatic transmission for these steep ramps.

Thanks again

Wayne

 

[Scott65]

We used to pull the dragster around in a 32 foot toy hauler behind a 40 foot motorhome. From the axle to the receiver on the rv was over 10 feet, and possibly the same tail swing on the trailer. This made things quite interesting at times. But as long as I took it slow, I could maneuver or park it anywhere I needed.

I added steel casters as well. 1 out at each corner and one in the middle. I made the mounts myself so I could tuck them under how I wanted. I also built a "lift kit" that raised the frame of the trailer off of the axles a couple of inches. It doesn't sound like much but it made all the difference. I can probably dig out the blocks to take pictures if you think your interested in making some. I removed them when I sold the trailer in case I purchased another.

 

[Spanky100]

We used to pull the dragster around in a 32 foot toy hauler behind a 40 foot motorhome. From the axle to the receiver on the rv was over 10 feet, and possibly the same tail swing on the trailer. This made things quite interesting at times. But as long as I took it slow, I could maneuver or park it anywhere I needed.

I added steel casters as well. 1 out at each corner and one in the middle. I made the mounts myself so I could tuck them under how I wanted. I also built a "lift kit" that raised the frame of the trailer off of the axles a couple of inches. It doesn't sound like much but it made all the difference. I can probably dig out the blocks to take pictures if you think your interested in making some. I removed them when I sold the trailer in case I purchased another.

Scott Thanks for the info. 40 foot motor home with a 32 foot trailer = one long combined rig. If you can locate the blocks, please send pictures. Sounds like they would work well for what I need.

Thanks

Wayne

 

[Scott65]

Scott Thanks for the info. 40 foot motor home with a 32 foot trailer = one long combined rig. If you can locate the blocks, please send pictures. Sounds like they would work well for what I need.

Thanks

Wayne

Sorry this took me so long, I couldn't find the blocks for a while. Pretty simple, 2.5 inch square tubing, 1/4 inch. I welded the bolts so I didn't have to mess with washers or backup wrench inside the tube. The torsion axles were originally bolted up into the frame, but also had flanges at 90 degrees. So I bolted these blocks in the original holes in the frame, then used the side flanges to secure the axle. It bothered me when I bought the trailer that the wheels weren't centered in the wells. The side flange holes were offset just enough to relocate the axles to cure this. Otherwise I would have taken the opportunity to do it myself by offsetting the bolts in these blocks.

 

[ultrarunner]

There is a stretch of hairpin switchbacks where I live and the pavement is full of scrape marks and every year tandem trailers loose tires...

I've seen tires with low inflation I'm guessing pulled right off the rim.

Buy the best tires and keep them properly inflated is a big help.

 

[California]

We used to pull the dragster...
I added steel casters as well. 1 out at each corner and one in the middle.

I waited behind a rig like that at the stoplight outside Sonoma (Sears Point/Infineon) Raceway the day after the NASCAR race last week.

That was the lowest trailer I've ever seen with the tire rails a few inches off the ground. Casters at the back corners of the ducktail had at best two inches clearance from the ground. It would be easy to hand-push the racecar onto this trailer.