Leaf Springs - suitable for cultivator tine tips?

[Arc weld]

For what it's worth, I've always used 308L stainless for welding high carbon steel. I've welded shortened axle shafts and grader blades. Never had a crack. They work good on 304 stainless too.

309 is a better choice for carbon steel but 312 is the best choice for high carbon or unknown steel. 308 is for welding stainless steel and not carbon steel. It would be far too much typing trying to explain why there are hundreds of different rods for different applications. Even if it was explained clear as mud, there would still be people arguing what's the best rod to use because it's what they used. That's why critical jobs have specific weld procedures. I realize a lot of maintenance or repair work isn't critical but if you treat it as if it is critical you have a much better chance of having a lasting repair.

 

[jbwilson]

A masonry bit makes easy work of drilling leaf springs.

Guessing the drill hammer function is turned off?

John

 

[Reverser]

Guessing the drill hammer function is turned off?

John

I would think so, but I'm only guessing. I'd never heard of using a masonry bit to drill hard steel before. I thought he was just joking until I Googled it. Masonry bits are tipped with a carbide cutter. Good info. :thumbsup:

 

[Egon]

I inadvertently hit metal with a brand new carbide tipped masonry drill. The carbide tips got knocked of instantly?

 

[bdog]

Chisel points are cheap - $10-15 each? Seems like more effort than it is worth. I am all for building things but time is money. I would buy some off the shelf and be done.

 

[CNC Dan]

I would think so, but I'm only guessing. I'd never heard of using a masonry bit to drill hard steel before. I thought he was just joking until I Googled it. Masonry bits are tipped with a carbide cutter. Good info. :thumbsup:

If you start with an UNused masonry bit, and use a lot of pressure, at low RPMs, it can work well.

 

[jaotguy]

there are many ways to look at it ....

if you need the equipment UP all the time , buying off the shelf is the way to go and keep spares on hand ..

if it is used occasionally, and is for his own use .... and if he has idle time on his hands , ... there is nothing wrong with trading some idle time for keeping $$$ in his pocket ....

then there are the "obsolete and no longer available" parts that one can fabricate to get a machine up and running again ....

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I would think so, but I'm only guessing. I'd never heard of using a masonry bit to drill hard steel before. I thought he was just joking until I Googled it. Masonry bits are tipped with a carbide cutter. Good info. :thumbsup:

Yes carbide tipped but not sharpened by any stretch -- they have a tough enough time drilling thru wood never mind steel. They are designed to take the blunt force of the hammering action of the hammer drill to pulverize the concrete/rock and the dust be cleared out by the flutes.

If you start with an UNused masonry bit, and use a lot of pressure, at low RPMs, it can work well.

Do you sharpen it first?


I couldn't even count how many masonry bits I've worn out over the years. No way any of them would have ever made it thru mild steel, let alone hardened steel. If any of you guys have actually done this, please fill in the gaps in the info.

 

[CNC Dan]

Yes carbide tipped but not sharpened by any stretch -- they have a tough enough time drilling thru wood never mind steel. They are designed to take the blunt force of the hammering action of the hammer drill to pulverize the concrete/rock and the dust be cleared out by the flutes.

Do you sharpen it first?

I couldn't even count how many masonry bits I've worn out over the years. No way any of them would have ever made it thru mild steel, let alone hardened steel. If any of you guys have actually done this, please fill in the gaps in the info.

Some are sharper than others.

The hammer action against masonary will round off the cutting edges right away. Then it's just a dull chisle crushing.

When drilling steel you don't use the hammer action.

There was this 'drill' that you would turn by hand after clamping to the work piece. A poor mans mag base drill if you will. I'll see if I can find a link. They recommend using a carbide masonary drill for drilling hard steel.

cole drill
cole drill - Google Search
Here is a therad about drilling leaf springs:
Drill A spring??