Leaking Seal

[PWGflyboy]

Mashed bananas and sawdust - was that the favorite food of Elvis? No, now I remember it was fried peanut butter and mashed banana sandwiches.

Seriously, Stan is sending both seals and a new bearing. There is a little play in the wheel so I may as well change the bearing while I am there. I have never done a project like this so if any has instructions or photos of the job they did, I will appreciate the guidance.

Thanks

Kendall

 

[LMTC]

Far be it from me, Wayne, to suggest that you are your brothers keeper. But, if it were you, would you rather have your customer rely on good intentioned advice from others or let you know of a problem so that you could attend to it before it escalated ?
On second thought, why don't we just tell Kendall to fill it with mashed bananas and sawdust ? That shouldn't leak.

Bruce

I asked you a very simple and clear question because it was not clear to me what you were suggesting...no sarcasm, no "cuts', no shots taken. Your response was fine up through "escalated?". The comment about mashed bananas was completely unwarranted. I attempted a dialogue; you responded with sarcasm. I am done.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. if there was bearing play.. you needed to get in there. new seals alone would have leaked soon..

Soundguy

Mashed bananas and sawdust - was that the favorite food of Elvis? No, now I remember it was fried peanut butter and mashed banana sandwiches.

Seriously, Stan is sending both seals and a new bearing. There is a little play in the wheel so I may as well change the bearing while I am there. I have never done a project like this so if any has instructions or photos of the job they did, I will appreciate the guidance.

Thanks

Kendall

 

[PWGflyboy]

OK, the first step. I have the wheel off and drained all the gear oil. It looks like the way to remove the hub is to take off the 4 - 17 mm bolts on the top of the 4wd knuckle. It looks like I have to get to the seal(s) from the back side. I am a bit concerned since the drawing on the Hoye website shows a lot of parts that are going to have to go back together in the right order.

Am I going down the right road?

 

[mark777]

Yep, the four bolts and the large Nut and shims at the top. The spindle is keyed and slotted..and the whole assembly should drop out the bottom in a nice neat package (with friendly persuasion from a big soft hammer)...which makes ideal circumstances to do the repairs on a work bench or table top. Bearings, bushings, spacers and gears should be removed, stacked upside down as you disassemble and reassembled accordingly. You should end up with an empty case (and your bad seal).

You might want to check the upper knuckle seal (the largest one on your tractor) and see if it's damaged or needs replacing, but probably not if it never leaked before.

Once your finished, you should be saying...Hey, that wasn't so hard after all .

 

[PWGflyboy]

Ummm... I am not sure exactly which large nut and shims you are referring to.

 

[mark777]

Woops...The 1510D does not use the king-pin nut and shims. I've done many 1401 and 1600 series that I forgot your model is internally capped.

Mark

 

[PWGflyboy]

So just remove the 4 bolts and start whacking it with the largest hammer I can find er..., the fine adjustment tool and get drop the bottom section of the knuckle to drop?

 

[BruceR]

Kendall,
Are you still with us ? How did this project turn out ?

Bruce

 

[PWGflyboy]

Yep, I am still here. Since I had all the bits and pieces, I changed all the seals and bearings on both sides. I did have to call a friend with more experience to give me some help. Based on his advice, I refilled the front end with hydro fluid instead of 90 wt. His comment was that all modern 4wd units use that instead of 90 wt so it should be fine. So far, so good as I have not leaked a single drop since the repair.

Kendall