Tiller leaky tiller

Anonymous Poster · May 21, 2003

DaveL

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( One thing that I noted on this tiller; it doesn't sit on the floor well and has a tendency to want to tip over (haven't done it yet but got close a couple of times). I have to stop by the dealer this week and will probably order a second parking stand for it.
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I am not familiar with the Woods tiller but if it has depth runners like my First Choice has you may be able to make runner dollies like I did (see pictures). They are very easy to make, easy to install (one pin on each dolly) and it makes the tiller very easy to move around assuming that you have a concrete floor.

John

Anonymous Poster · May 21, 2003

Tiller Dolly removed

gobbler · May 21, 2003

John,

That's a great idea. The Woods does have depth runners that look exactly like that.

Mine wants to tip as well unless I adjust the depth runners everytime I put it way. Your dolly would eliminate having to adjust the depth runners just to make it sit on the floor properly.

Jim

Rick Jay · May 21, 2003

DaveL,

Thanks for the information.

~Rick

Anonymous Poster · May 21, 2003

gobbler.. My First Choice tiller has a tendency to tip in the direction of the PTO. The nice thing about the dollies is that you can make the dolly any length to acquire the right amount of stability (I think mine are 16 inches). Once you install the dollies it is very easy to push around and it is very stable.

John

Anonymous Poster · May 21, 2003

Good looking setup, just not sure how it goes together. I have debated making full width dollies out of 2 x 4's, but this looks better.
Ok, let me see if I have this right: 2" "C" channel, the one caster stud clamps the back of the runner using a short piece of angle iron, and the through pin clips over the runner to help hold the dollie so it can be clamped???
DaveL

Anonymous Poster · May 21, 2003

DaveL.. It is 3 inch X 1/4 inch channel. The angle iron could be replaced with 1/4 inch X 2 inch flat stock. I used angle iron because that was what I had on hand. The casters that I used have a ½ inch stud that is long enough to go through the channel, then a lock washer, then a nut, then the ¼ inch flat stock, then another nut. The angle iron prevents the tiller from tipping in the direction of the PTO.

To install, I just raise the tiller with the 3 PH, slide a dolly on each runner, and insert the 3/8 inch pin. That’s it; no wrenches required. You will need to adjust the top link until the tiller rests on all four casters.

My tiller weighs about 325 pounds and it glides across the floor effortlessly.

John

Anonymous Poster · May 22, 2003

DaveL... Correction to the above post

The channel thickness is 3/16 rather than 1/4 (I measured it last night). The length of the channel is 16 inches. The length of the stud on the casters is 1.5 inches.

John

Rick Jay · May 22, 2003

DaveL,

Thanks for all the great info. Would you mind telling me approximately what you paid for your GTO40? My dealer gave me a price on a GTO60 of about $1750 plus tax, including delivery. Just wondering how that compares to what others have paid in other areas.

Interestingly, he said he doesn't ever remember selling an offset Woods tiller. He had a GT40, GT52, GT60 and GT72 in stock, and they looked very rugged and well made. I could almost be convinced to go with the GT60, but I'm not sure if I might wish to have offset capability, so I figure I'll order the tiller that has that feature. I think the offset adds about $200 or so.

Thanks,

~Rick

gobbler · May 22, 2003

Rick,

I got my GTO40 with my tractor and I paid $1175. That was a year ago and I'm sure I got a discount for purchasing the tiller the same time as the tractor. If I'm not mistaken, the regular price was about $1350.

Dave, how'd you do ???

Jim