Let there be light - Question

[dtd24]

Ok, I don't want to beat a dead horse. I have read all the threads on lights. Some really great ideas. I just want to get this right the first time. I bought (5) 55 watt lights from Harbor Freight. Since my JD 1070 has the stock 20 amp alternator I may only be able to use them separately (275 watts / 12 volts = 22.92 amps). Heres my thought (2) mounted forward on the ROPS, (2) mounted rear on the ROPS, (1) on the backhoe itself. Not to sure about the last one yet. My ROPS has 2 holes which are threaded on each side of it, looks to be factory. Thats where I will mount them. As far as the wiring, I will go from battery to in-line fuse, from in line fuse to relay, wire realy to switch and to lights. OK here come the questions:
What size wire from battery to fuse?
What size fuse?
What size relay?
What size wire off of relay?
So, have three setups, each one needs all the above? Gotta be something better? Power block of something.

What do you guys recommend?

Thank you
DaveD

 

[kennyd]

Dave,
Here is what I did for my 4110:
-I used a 10ga wire from the battery to a 30amp circuit breaker(CB).
-Then 10ga wire from the CB to a 30 amp relay mounted near the fuse panel, the relay is triggered from the fuse box so that no accesories can be powered when the key is not ON.
-Then I ran 10a wire to four 20 amp switches.
-Then I ran 14ga wire to my lights, 2 light draw about 8 amps, so the 14 ga wire is fine.

Here is a thread on my install, please let me know if I can help more...
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/69583-rops-light-install.html

 

[BXRICK]

With lights, you can't go wrong using 10ga for anywhere there's "real" power. That would be from battery-to-fuse-to-relay-to-lights. I'm sure someone will do the math to figure out the minimum wire gauge needed.
Using 14ga for the switched power would also be fine.

If you're adding two lights, for instance, on the rollbar facing forward, you can wire them to the same wire. That should still be fine.

For fuses, figure out the total amps being fused (the light load), and round up to the next fuse size. Then, make sure the wiring and relay in that circuit is rated above the fuse rating.

You might want to figure out how many different light combinations you need, in an attempt to save some effort wiring switches. I have all the lights on my tractor wired to one switch - headlights, add-on front and read facing lights all go on together. It was easier to wire, and is easier to use. If you need/want to, you can use one switch to trigger more than one relay.

All of this advice from someone who hasn't yet burned up a vehicle despite lots of add-on wiring, but has no formal electrical training. Take it for what you paid for it.

Here's a site that has a calculator to figure all this out, if you really care to do so.
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits

 

[dtd24]

Kenny,
So, let me get this straight. Your 1 relay runs the power to all 4 light switches and the grapple diverter switch? I read alot of your posts, and have learned alot. I guess that would be plenty beacuse it is rated for 30 amps right? Seeing how my alternator is a 20 amp that would work for me as well. I will be adding a grapple as well at some point and want to take the diverter into account as well. See I had it in my head to run a relay for each switch. Way too much, right? Plus where would I fit all that stuff?

I am sure I will have a few more questions as I pick up the rest of the patrs.

Thank you in advance
DaveD

 

[dtd24]

I was thinking along these lines. The pic was made by pineridge i believe.

 

[Soundguy]

May i make a sugestion.. don't wire fromt he battery.. but rather from the load side of your load center... that way you can still 'use' any type of 'net' charge / discharge monitoring system your tractor may have.. like an ammeter.. or idiot lamp.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[kennyd]

Kenny,
So, let me get this straight. Your 1 relay runs the power to all 4 light switches and the grapple diverter switch?

Yes Dave, That is correct.
I use the relay as a new power point that is HOT only with the key ON. The factory wiring harnesses on most vehicles and tractors is just large enough to operate what is factory equipped IMHO. Wiring my may puts no stress on the factory harness or switches.

 

[638]

#16 wire = 10 amp
#14 wire = 15 amp
#12 wire = 20 amp
#10 wire = 30 amp

ron

 

[midlf]

Those are the NEC values for wiring in buildings. The car mfr's use a lot higher limits for 12vdc wiring.

 

[Iowachild]

Those are the NEC values for wiring in buildings. The car mfr's use a lot higher limits for 12vdc wiring.

Current ratings (amps) are the same for a given size wire. Voltage ratings on wire are determined by the type of insulation.