Let's do the math

   / Let's do the math #1  

LoneCowboy

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Oct 2, 2006
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Since there isn't a business forum (HINT), I guess we'll have to put this here.
To decide what you can charge and stay in business you need to know what your costs are. If your costs are more than what the going price is, you can't and won't stay in business (and neither will anyone else over time)
There will always be people who lowball just to get business, but they'll be out of business over time, because they aren't covering their costs.

some places have longer seasons than others, this means you can split your costs over a longer time period. For example, here in colorado the season is approximately April to October, sometimes a little longer, but that's about it. and maybe for mowing, you might get 3 cuts in a really wet year. (last year was very dry, some places we did once, some places not at all). In Florida, I would imagine the season goes almost all year (and thus your prices can be lower because you can split your fixed costs over a longer period of time each year).

Insurance. You have business liability insurance (which isn't too excessive for just mowing, but for excavating and spraying chemicals can get ridiculously expensive). You have to insure your vehicle as a business vehicle (or get a business rider), which is not nearly as cheap as regular personal insurance (and obviously varies by area). Also, while personal trailers are covered by the vehicle, that's not true for business trailers, you have to get another policy (in colorado it's about $100 a trailer) for just liability. You also need to think of actual physical damage to your trailer and equipment. This is the typical Inland Marine policy that covers if it's stolen or damaged or whatever. This isn't cheap (but not outrageous either), but if you can't afford to replace that piece of equipment, you might think of getting some of this type, otherwise you are out of business. Snowplowing liability insurance is ridiculously expensive. (mine is $1500 a year for one truck, in addition to the regular business truck liability insurance). In some states you have to carry workman's comp with no employees, in some states you don't.

Fuel, fuel is of course a reasonable expense and shoudl be accounted for. Perhaps you have a travel charge for going long distance, whatever. But it does add it. it runs total about 15% of my revenue is fuel. Remember you have fuel to go out and bid jobs (that you won't always get) and go and get parts, materials, etc.

Equipment Maintenance: of course you need equipment and of course it needs to be maintained. Tractors need oil changes, parts break, mower blades dull out, tires get flats, tires wear out. You have to account for this. You might not need that new tire this year, but you will, and you need to be charging for it. I like to use the 10% of the cost of the equipment per year. seems to be a reasonable number, maybe a little high, but older tractors cost less, but usually have higher maintenance. Of course vehicles also need oil changes, tires, etc. if you can't maintain it, you can't stay in business long. You can of course do lots of this work yourself, but parts still cost money and some things you won't be able to do yourself and it's still your time that you aren't getting paid for.

Taxes: how could I forget taxes. Registration of vehicles, make sure you put them in the business name. Social Insecurity, errr I mean the self employed tax. Sales tax on equipment you buy, business taxes for the privledge of operating your business, income taxes and of course, the accountant's fees. Only the income tax is optional (you actually have to have income :p ). But don't screw up and not put enough away to pay your quarterlies. Small business is a function of cash flow, not profitability. The IRS is not a debtor you want.

Carrying costs: Business bank account, (always more expensive than personal checking), some type of tax software/ledger to keep track of your expenses, etc. You still have to do this, you don't get to bill for the time. Accounts receivable. You bill people, they pay 2 or 3 weeks later (or worse), meanwhile you still have expenses to pay every day so you have to carry a decent amount of "dead" cash to cover for those slow times. You also have to cover for your off season, the mortgage still comes due every month, no matter if you have business or not.

Depreciation: this is what everyone misses. sure, you already have a tractor, a truck, a trailer and a mower, and it's already paid for so you can go out and make money. BUT, someday you'll need to replace that stuff and if you haven't accounted for that cost you aren't making any money. Most larger things depreciate on a 5 or 7 year schedule and in your head you should do that too. this tractor might have cost 20,000 grand if I bought it today, therefore I should put 4,000 a year away, because in 5 years it will be "worn out" and I'll have to replace it with yet another 20,000 dollar tractor. Now, of course if you can make it run for 10 years, you've made extra money in the meantime, but you have to cover the cost of your capital.
I can tell you that just one of my rigs is $50,000+. Tractor, truck, trailer, mower, that's a ton of money. Will they last more than 5 years? I hope so but that's my cost of capital I need to cover. Posted by Toiyabe and an excellent point: You should also factor in interest on your capital. Even if you paid cash, that interest is the cost for not investing your money elsewhere.

Advertising: gotta advertise if you want to get business. None of it is free. Web pages, classified ads, display ads, business cards, etc. Maybe after you've been in business a while it's all word of mouth, but up front, you gotta get your name out.

I hope that helps and I'll do an example in the next post.
 
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   / Let's do the math
  • Thread Starter
#2  
A guy in colorado chooses to set up a small field mowing business, he already has a truck and trailer and he's going to be a new or lightly used tractor and mower. In colorado you don't need workman's comp unless you have an employee.

His truck is currently valued at about $7000 and the trailer is worth $3000. he buys a 35 horse tractor with a 6 foot mower for about 20,000.

total of $30,000 invested, plus of course tools, diesel cans, invoices, business registration, etc.

Business liability insurance is about $500
Business truck insurance is about $1000 a year.
he's worried about losing the tractor so he gets an Inland marine policy which is about $200 a year.

There are 250 working days in a year, the season is about 6 months long here, but you really only mow from about May to September (if you are lucky), but let's say you work 6 days, that's about 125 working days possible.

You also have advertising costs (which I totally forgot about above and I'll add in a minute), let's say you run a couple classified ads, say $400 a month (4 papers, classifieds are spendy) for those 5 months which is $2000 a year

So, depreciation is 30,000/5 which is $6000 a year
Insurance is $1700 a year
maint is 10% of the 30,000, $3000 a year

so, right there you have $13,700 plus fuel, plus all the minor costs
divided by 125 days

that's $109 per working day or $13.62 an hour you need to make JUST to cover your main costs. You still have variable costs such as fuel and so forth. You still haven't made any money for you. Of course if you aren't busy those full 125 days, it gets worse.
 
   / Let's do the math #3  
its hard to make money just mowing. the landscape guys making a lot of money do it by spraying.
 
   / Let's do the math #4  
Since I am currently unemployed with two tractors in the yard, I am reading this with more than a little bit of interest.
Question:
You figure out your complete overhead, depreciation, insurance, etc. How do you divide that up between the one job you have this week and the unknown number of non existing jobs you may or may not have next week? Do you just figure out your going to work xxx hours per week and hope that you find enough jobs to fill that time?
David from jax
 
   / Let's do the math #5  
You should also factor in interest on your capital. Even if you paid cash, that interest is the cost for not investing your money elsewhere.

Next you get to figure out your loaded labor rate, including non-billable work such as accounting and marketing.

Sandman2234:

In your cost per hour rates you have to estimate the number of hours of work you will have in a year. If you over-estimate you loose money, if you under-estimate you make money (except for the jobs you lost because you charged too much).

For some government contracts we go back and adjust our rates after the fact based on actual costs. That works both ways, though - you can end up having to pay some money back if your cost structure was leaner than anticipated.
 
   / Let's do the math
  • Thread Starter
#6  
sandman2234 said:
Since I am currently unemployed with two tractors in the yard, I am reading this with more than a little bit of interest.
Question:
You figure out your complete overhead, depreciation, insurance, etc. How do you divide that up between the one job you have this week and the unknown number of non existing jobs you may or may not have next week? Do you just figure out your going to work xxx hours per week and hope that you find enough jobs to fill that time?
David from jax


I think you have to make an assumption of how many hours a week you can work. Maybe you start at 20 for 3 months and then to 30 and then up from there. (figuring you get busier over time). Or, you just figure that you should be working 40 hours a week and these are your costs. It may take you a while to get there, but at that level and that pricing you should make money. If the going rate around you is less than your cost level though, there's a serious disconnect.
 
   / Let's do the math #7  
Brian, thanks for posting this and other related info here on the board. I appreciate the time you take to type out all this info. This is invaluable info for many on this board.

I wonder about the part timers who do something like this mostly for the write offs and intangible benefits of having tractors, trucks, trailers etc... Not necesarily for a "real job", they just might do a few lots or yards involving friends and family. It would seem that a yard service business would be a good one because most folks have to buy lawn equipment anyway...
 
   / Let's do the math #8  
There are people that do lawn mowing cheaper than even I will do it. Case in point is across the street right now, a guy is mowing my Mother in Laws yard while i sit here unemployed. He does it cheaper than I can afford to do it, considering the wear and tear on my paid for equipment. He uses a Dixie Chopper to mow, then weedeats and trims the hedges on 2 acres of yard for less than the $50 she was paying my childs education account. (No cash to me, but deposited to an account to put her grandchild thru college, which helps me in the long run). I don't see it, but some people manage to drive like new 4x4 p/u trucks while doing it. Let's see what happens when the chopper wears out and needs replacing. So far he has been there for about two hours and twenty minutes.
David from jax
 
   / Let's do the math #9  
sandman2234 said:
There are people that do lawn mowing cheaper than even I will do it. Case in point is across the street right now, a guy is mowing my Mother in Laws yard while i sit here unemployed. He does it cheaper than I can afford to do it, considering the wear and tear on my paid for equipment. He uses a Dixie Chopper to mow, then weedeats and trims the hedges on 2 acres of yard for less than the $50 she was paying my childs education account. (No cash to me, but deposited to an account to put her grandchild thru college, which helps me in the long run). I don't see it, but some people manage to drive like new 4x4 p/u trucks while doing it. Let's see what happens when the chopper wears out and needs replacing. So far he has been there for about two hours and twenty minutes.
David from jax

Sounds like a witch to me - :eek: she would rather pay a stranger then her direct family? Are you already excluded from her will? :D
 
   / Let's do the math #10  
LoneCowboy said:
so, right there you have $13,700 plus fuel, plus all the minor costs
divided by 125 days

that's $109 per working day or $13.62 an hour you need to make JUST to cover your main costs. You still have variable costs such as fuel and so forth. You still haven't made any money for you. Of course if you aren't busy those full 125 days, it gets worse.

so if you made another $13.62 an hr it would be 100% bankable cash (give or take) 27.25 an hr....

put another way.... you need to make $650 per calandar week for the 6 months to cover costs....


but, your your own boss, and only work 6 months out of the year... course you only make 13K a year which is kinda hard to "live off of"

but i think we are missing an inportant detail... the "im on vacation for 6 months" part.... you happen to live in CO were the snow plow season is MUCH MUCH longer than it is in FL.... you already pay for vehical insurance for the ENTIRE year, you already carry the buisness libility for the ENTIRE year.... pushing snow around is essentally 100% profit... (ok costs for fuel and maintance per hr it runs, but per hr it runs you should be covering those costs)
 
   / Let's do the math
  • Thread Starter
#11  
schmism said:
so if you made another $13.62 an hr it would be 100% bankable cash (give or take) 27.25 an hr....

put another way.... you need to make $650 per calandar week for the 6 months to cover costs....


but, your your own boss, and only work 6 months out of the year... course you only make 13K a year which is kinda hard to "live off of"

but i think we are missing an inportant detail... the "im on vacation for 6 months" part.... you happen to live in CO were the snow plow season is MUCH MUCH longer than it is in FL.... you already pay for vehical insurance for the ENTIRE year, you already carry the buisness libility for the ENTIRE year.... pushing snow around is essentally 100% profit... (ok costs for fuel and maintance per hr it runs, but per hr it runs you should be covering those costs)

almost
Don't forget your variable costs. Fuel, time, etc

Snow plowing liability insurance is ridiculously expensive. It's in addition to your regular liability. I think i pay like $1400 a year for one person, one truck in addition to the pasture maintenance liability.. (slip and falls I'm sure is what makes it so expensive). Plus the $5000 plow and it's hard on trucks. (and you have to get up EARLY :mad: )

But yeah, basically extra cash flow in the winter. It doesn't really snow all that much here on the front range usually.
 
   / Let's do the math #12  
Ducati996
She isn't a witch and I wasn't in her will to start with. She is my mother in law and although I will never be good enough for her daughter, she and I have called a truce since my Father in Law passed away.
If she wanted me to mow her lawn, all she would have to do is ask her daughter and she would tell me to go do it. I do still hit the high spots in between paid mowings if it gets too bad.
I kind of appreciate not having to do it. I didn't get enough time off as it was and hated spending half a day making her yard look like mine ought to.
David from jax
 
   / Let's do the math
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Opps forgot one
Sitting here paying bills
Communication
Your phone bill.
You need a phone (in this day and age probably a cell phone) to have a business.

Add another 50 to 100 bucks a month in overhead
 
   / Let's do the math #14  
Plus your going to have to have an office, or at least a corner of the dining room table with a ledger book/computer to keep details in.
David from jax
 
   / Let's do the math #15  
With the numbers you posted, minus some additions you came up with $13.63, for lets say 872 hours of work or aprox. $13,625.00.

At $50.00 per Hr, for only half those hours or 400 Hrs, you will make 20K,
if your aggresive and work all 872 hours at $50.00 Hr, that's 43k. At $75.00 you shoot up to 65K

Now that you have a basis for the rock bottom price just to make you costs, you can now get creative.

Now you know the number that you can negotiate to kill off the low ballers, or the competition, great number to know. By doing some jobs at cost, or below cost is not "costing" you money, if you use these jobs to drive the competition away, or keep them at bay, then the "loss" is money well spent in the long run.

I've done jobs where I walked away with $5.00 for a days work, but I chased away the competition and got the customer for life - In the long run I made thousands of dollars because I chose to "lose" money.

Now lets get creative. Knowing the $13.63 rate you can now farm yourself out to construction sites, overflow to you competition, hourly rate etc. for a flat rate of lets say $50.00, per hr. ( use whatever number you wish here ) - point being, as long as the tractor is running your making money so the objective is keep the motor runnin.

Place some selective flyers out in Grocery stores Have tractor will travel $50.00 per Hr. Tilling, Mowing, clean up, road grading, driveway smoothing digging pods, making fire breaks etc .etc. ( perhaps a minimum so you don't get killed ) Flat rates help people out because they can figure out the job's price before they call you, saying "I have a job that should be 4 hours, and...."

Remember a lot of these people you are now networking with, are all potential snow plowing customers, people who need barns cleaned, etc.

Farming yourself out to the State of Colorado during snow plowing for back roads, by the hour.

Now there's wood chopping which will bring in some extra cash.
 
   / Let's do the math #16  
Then there is the "other" format, that more people use, but never seem to want to type on this type of board, and that is what I would call the "going Rate" format.

Say in Lawncare, there is a "going rate" which is actually more of a range, that you need to be within, to get jobs, and yet stay in business.

Often, for folks just starting out, it is easy to get flat out overwhelmed by the numbers, when in reality, if you just go with the "going Rate" of doing work in your area, it will average out ok.

Ie, this neighborhood, lawns are between $30 and $40 each, someone will come in and bid $20 on occasion, but they will be gone before long as something will break etc. and they will not have the $ to keep going, someone will also come in and bid $50 and they will probably not last long either as someone else will come along offering to do it for $40.

Anyway, there is another, very common in actual fact, but never discussed in the books or business plans that operates that way.

Many, many many folks start out charging going rate, then refine their plans as they go.
 
   / Let's do the math #17  
Remember, his costs are based on a $7000 truck. Everything else is based on higher (more closer to new) costs but the replacement of a truck would be a bunch more than $7K. If a person can keep a lower priced truck rolling down the road, this is a great way to increase profit.

What I've surmised from all of this is, if your mechanically inclined to fix your own stuff, go buy good USED equipment to keep your fixed cost low and give yourself the best chance to make profit from the start. If stuff breaks on you, learn from it. Buy different better stuff. Carry spares and tools. I'm not talking about worn out stuff but if you know about a particular brand whether it be Scag or Snapper, and you know how to keep it running, that's what I'd be looking for USED of course...
 
   / Let's do the math
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Yeah, i used that as a starter point (7k truck)
but remember, breakdowns cost you big time.
Your fixed costs continue each hour you are down, plus you cost yourself work and customers.
so used stuff is fine, but it's got to be good running good stuff.
(new stuff breaks down too).
sometimes you need backups for stuff, as you can't be down when the work is there.
 
   / Let's do the math #19  
lonecowboy
you forgot one little thing,, when you depreciate, you first have to subtract scrap value. For instance, on all my tractor trailers, say the tractor cost 80,000, and it is new, you subtract 10,000 for scrap value, then divide the rest by 4-5 years and get depreciation. The IRS has always demanded a scrap value first, In other words, brand new tractor that for some unforseen accident that totals the new truck,,
What I did with my L48 TLB is to take the nat'l municipal average which is 6000 hours. THis is what most state and local gvt's feel a backhoe has as a useful life,, Divide cost of machine, yearly inland marine, 420.00 in my instance, 4.00 per hour in fuel, same for maintenace costs, 15% return on investment and this total, divided by 6000 hours is my variable and fixed costs to own and operate the L48. I've done it this way since 1974 and beleive it or not, is seems to be very accurate.,
 
   / Let's do the math #20  
When I do the math with my small remodeling buisness it is the high cost that is killing me. I have an 05 gmc diesel, 7k in tools and a 14k Kubota 7510. I try to keep it simple compared to you guys cause I'm one guy. I figure 2.00 an hour for diesel, 1.00 for tools (which is half what it should be) When I us my Kubota I need 200.00 a day when I realy use it, 100.00 when I use it real light. I figure about 8.00 per hr. for wear on the tractor and 3.00 per hr for diesel.I try to get 20.00-30.00 every time I need to get supplies like lumber. The clock starts whatever the time says on the receipt as proof if there is a question on time. If it wasn't for the .47 cents a mile for my truck, and deductions for tools as expenses I would have a dead company. Even at 40 per hr. labor only nets me about 37per hr after expenses. I also do a few things though, to help me a little bit. When my church or I use my tools or tractor for church I can deduct off my taxes what the daily rental would be. Last year I cut grass for my church property and took 250.00 per day for 20 days. I t came to 5000.00 deduction. Only problem is I had to cut an awfull lot of grass to get it. With depreciation from my buisness I'm sure it will pay for the tractor in time.
 

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