Let's see your welds...

   / Let's see your welds... #21  
As a current welding inspector in the power generation industry,I honestly could never tell you how to do your job and quite honestly only struck an arc 30 years ago in ag class. It is also against policy to tell anyone how to do their choosen trade,unless its a safety issue, so it important ya'll share the trade with ones coming up through the ranks. In the 25 years of inspecting I have seen the quality of this trade fallen off,mostly do to the lack of ongoing construction. There are still some fne welders out there, but many of the old hands have moved on mostly due to poor eye site aquired from burning rods.
As an inspector I can only tell you if is good or bad,many times if we are there throughout the process, we have the ability to correct issues before its incapsulated in the final product, those issues are only found thorugh volumetric means (Subsurface inspection techniques) either radiography (RT) or ultra sound (UT).
A class 1 weld goes through various holdpoints, typically there is the fit up, we check root gap opening, grove angles, etc..verify pull back if its a socket joint,then check the tacs for a s s h o l e s or pull out even on the ID of the tac with a mirror, verify its crack free and ensure the ends are feathered (Ground for the root pass tie ins),then we check the root,we must verify its crack free, with no excessive penetration (drop through) or excessive suckback and good fusion along the basemetal. Typically this is all visually performed and we must look at the inside the pipe when the butt joint is accessable. On the interpasses,we check for cleanliness,,fusion, undercut, laps,etc. most times we perform NDE on the interpasses either dye penetrant for stainless,or mag particle for carbon. Once accepted, we don't see it again till its capped.
Final visual we check for undercut,overlaps,excessice reinforcement,uniformity, cracking (Shrink or craters) excessive weld beads if its as welded, etc.. but most time its prepped for NDE,or flat topped with a smooth transition into the base metal, once the visual is accepted, we then perform a surface NDE exam dye or mag, if its good, we go volumetric, RT or/and UT. If the surface exam fails, the welder reworks,then another visual performed,then surface,then volumetric. (All this is for piping welds,not structual)
I could never tell ya'll the first thing about welding or set up,I can gives ideas on causes on the failure if asked.
Its been my experince the welder knows if he has had issues during the welding process. Its a very involved process,but we take no chances with the safety of the unit. I like what I do and always try to remain professional and friendly while performing my job. Sometimes its difficult but everyone knows everyone has a job to do.
I am an old UT hand, with ultrasound we can see the counterbore, any indications in the heat affected zone weld, or root, suckback, as well as dropthough, and slag. We can then map those indictions using trig within a fraction of an inch, to the second decimal place.
To qualify as a UT inspector in the nuclear world,the class has actual samples and you must identify, plot, and size all indications in the samples. The failure rate at the only school of its kind in the US is 80% failure rate, so its an honor and takes a unique breed to interpret indictaions of any kind. We are required to retest every 3 years.
I like what I do and have met some wonderful folks all over the country.
 
   / Let's see your welds... #22  
Ok Shield Arc, here is some Lift start TIG on the Everlast PA160 stick welder.

The first bead on the front is not too good, so I welded the seam on the backside after taking the photo's . Had a little undercut etc. Then I Ran 2 more beads on top of the backside over and under the seam bead. They looked a little better. I should have run some practice beads before I started. The thing I am the most proud of is the 17V torch tungsten is not all gloobed up as it usually is.. I stayed out of the puddle for 4 beads:) No grinding for me WHOO HOO. Now if you will just let me do some grinding and a little fill in I could make that metal look smooth:laughing::laughing: You do know that is why they invented the grinder, for guys like me right?

James K0UA
 

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   / Let's see your welds... #23  
Jake what type of Mig welder do you have? Does it have an inductance control? Those welds look like they need to be wet out a little, or at least turn the voltage up some.

I have a Hobart Ironman 230. I don't really understand the voltage concept with mig, I set by the chart and go. When it doesn't seem right I fiddle with it, usually start with the wire speed, then the volts, but I'm basically clueless. From what I understand, w/s gives more amps, that's pretty obvious when I adjust it, voltage, not so obvious..
It does not have an inductance control. (..or I would screw that up too.. :D)

Koua, great pic of 'The Weldor'!
 
   / Let's see your welds... #24  
k0ua said:
Ok Shield Arc, here is some Lift start TIG on the Everlast PA160 stick welder.

The first bead on the front is not too good, so I welded the seam on the backside after taking the photo's . Had a little undercut etc. Then I Ran 2 more beads on top of the backside over and under the seam bead. They looked a little better. I should have run some practice beads before I started. The thing I am the most proud of is the 17V torch tungsten is not all gloobed up as it usually is.. I stayed out of the puddle for 4 beads:) No grinding for me WHOO HOO. Now if you will just let me do some grinding and a little fill in I could make that metal look smooth:laughing::laughing: You do know that is why they invented the grinder, for guys like me right?

James K0UA

Nice shop bud! Acoustic ceiling, stove, fridge, and a waiting room lounge for pushy customers! LOL!!! Keep practicing, coming along fine. My phone only showed last couple pics. Been doing that alot lately, dont know why. Some wont even open.
 
   / Let's see your welds... #25  
To qualify as a UT inspector in the nuclear world,the class has actual samples and you must identify, plot, and size all indications in the samples. The failure rate at the only school of its kind in the US is 80% failure rate, so its an honor and takes a unique breed to interpret indictaions of any kind. We are required to retest every 3 years. I like what I do and have met some wonderful folks all over the country.

That is very interesting! We use to have a saying, UT inspection is only as good as the man behind the scope. A good UT man is really helpful for repair work, but only if his trigonometry is up to snuff. That way we don't go digging around all over god's creation.


James those are great! For full pin welds I'll tell you how I do it, not that I'm much of Tig hand!
I like a knife edge / 0 land. I use a 3/32-inch drill bit to set the gap. Use 1/8-inch filler rod. Lay the rod in the gap, and run over it with the torch while holding down pressure on the filler rod. I run about 85 to 90-amps with a really long 3/32-inch sharpened tungsten. For the next pass I won't turn the heat up anymore than 5-amps, and switch to 3/32-inch filler. This really helps with preventing suck back. Nothing more heart breaking than to run a perfect root pass then destroy it by running the hot pass too hot, or not use enough filler, and suck the root bead right back out!


Jake inductance control, controls the liquidity of the puddle. Pretty much the same as voltage. The more voltage you run the wetter the puddle, less voltage the dryer the puddle. With the welds you posted, I would have turned the wire speed / amps down, or most likely I would have turned the voltage up. Reason I say this, the beads have too high of a profile, need to have more flow to them.
I've never run a Mig machine with taps, the more I hear about them, I hope I never have to!
 
   / Let's see your welds... #26  
I dont think to take a lot of photos of stuff I am working on, but I searched my camera chip and found these of a favor I did for my building contractor. He wanted some anti-skid and floation plates welded to his backhoe stabilizer pads. All cast material on the pads and welded with 1/8" 7018. Material welded on was some scrap rusty as he!!! angle and a piece of old disc axle to act as anti skid bar.
 

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   / Let's see your welds... #27  
That's a nice anvil you have there Gary! I inherited one that size, but it's well worn, and the tail is busted off where the attachment hole is. I only fired up grand-pappy's coal forge once, made a smoke hood out of an oil tank and hooked it to the wood stove chimney. Filled my whole shop with smoke in minutes... one of my great projects that never went anywhere. :laughing:

Shield Arc, thanks for the pointer, I'll try wetter rather than hotter next time.
 
   / Let's see your welds... #28  
I was rather proud of the find and the cost for that anvil especially since a guy was advertizing them for 400 bucks. Mine is just like new, no breaks, chips etc. and it is hardened steel not cast iron like some of the new ones for sale now
 
   / Let's see your welds... #30  
I have mixed feelings about ZTFab's Mig welds. I can surely appreciate the skill level to produce them. I'd really like to do some DT on them to see how much penetration he actually gets. The welds just look too cold to me. But that might be fine on sheet metal, maybe not so good for structural welding. If I remember correctly he uses a series of cursive "e" technique.
 

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