Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Nuru]

Tried the BETST for about 20 minutes today, and I will need to adjust it. I had it to its highest level and it did okay, but seem to cut better in reverse, so I think the top link angle needed to be adjusted a little to change the angle. I was going to do that but the 3520 developed a problem and started shakingSo I shut down right away and dismounted the flail and will be calling my local dealer for a warranty service Seem wierd as this mower is quit light under 540 lbs and only a 68" cut, and I was cutting fgrass, so something apparently has gone wrong with the rear PTO area?

 

[Eagleview]

Yes scuvnut .// i should have explained better . Most flail mowers have or "should" have a single hole and a slotted hole for the top link to attach too . If you have a slotted hole use this as it allows the mower to articulate fore and aft while going over bumps . I have attached a photo of mine , it's the only one i have on file and my camera is not here , i hope you can see the slotted hole . In regards to the slotted bottom holes , if you look closely at the same photo you will see that the bottom clevis slots on my lift links have a long fork . If you could see the side view of that fork you would see that there are slotted holes the same length to allow the linkage arms to float . Some tractors may not have these as they have a float option instead . When setting up the flail , i would suggest you use the bottom holes for the roller so you only need to lift the front a small amount to raise the cutters to the desired height . Remember that the cutters are halfway between the roller and the lift arms so they only react 50% of the total lift . Doing this keeps the front protection flaps as close to the ground as possible stopping stones and debris being thrown forward . In regards to driveline angles , it is better to keep the PTO shaft at around 3 degrees as i said before . Also a Universal joint speeds up and slows back down twice every revolution . At 540 PTO speed this is happening 1080 times a minute . This causes driveline chatter , undue wear and damage . That is why applications that run at severe angles require the use of CV Joints (Constant Velosity Joints) such as in axle ends on front wheel drive cars . Nuru.// Have a look underneath , you have probably got a piece of rope/wire wrapped around the drum or have thrown a knife .

 

[GreenMtns]

Tried the BETST for about 20 minutes today, and I will need to adjust it. I had it to its highest level and it did okay, but seem to cut better in reverse, so I think the top link angle needed to be adjusted a little to change the angle. I was going to do that but the 3520 developed a problem and started shakingSo I shut down right away and dismounted the flail and will be calling my local dealer for a warranty service Seem wierd as this mower is quit light under 540 lbs and only a 68" cut, and I was cutting fgrass, so something apparently has gone wrong with the rear PTO area?

Nuru

Just a thought but did you try the PTO after you disconnected the flail mower?
It would be more likely that the problem would be in the mower. My 3520 has 225 hours on it and the few problems I have had with shaking have been with implements.

 

[Nuru]

Nuru

Just a thought but did you try the PTO after you disconnected the flail mower?
It would be more likely that the problem would be in the mower. My 3520 has 225 hours on it and the few problems I have had with shaking have been with implements.

GreenMtns, Yep, sure did and the unit is making a noise when I activate the rear PTO, none on the MID PTO. It still wil shake when I just push down on the hitch arms myself? What bum luck and I just have 3.5 hours on it.

 

[scuvnut]

IronHorse

Hope you don't mind a continuing dialogue....

I took a few pictures so you can help me be sure I'm running things optimally. Hopefully, this will help many more than just myself.

I am including 5 pictures. One is a general view of the NH flail I purchased.

The next is a closeup of the flails attachment for the toplink. It is slotted, albeit not a huge slot. Not much choice here as its the only toplink option.

Next is a closeup of the flails lower three point connection. Again, a slot. Again, not like I have an option.

Next pictures are two closeup of my tractor. No slots on either of these. However, like I said in a prior post, I do have a float option.

Based on this, any more insight? Any more pictures that I can offer that will be of any help, let me know.

Paul

 

[Eagleview]

scuvnut.// That is a terrific looking mower . Your options are limited . You must use the float position on your tractor and i would suggest you elongate the top slotted hole a little further if your grounds are more undulating than the mower can articulate at present . This allows you to have the pin in the center of the slot allowing travel in both directions . Hold your top link against the slotted hole and mark how far you can extend the hole before the ball end of the link rod hits the RHS hoop frame . The holes on my mowers are about 3 1/2" long . These types of mowers are designed for dead flat operation in orchard rows and need a little tweaking for the uses we have in mind . The lift pins of your tractors lower arms will be at the top of vertical slots on your mowers lower hitch slots as they are carrying the mower but as the mower rises rapidly they will also float .

 

[Foozle]

Very helpful pics and comments. I didn't realize I even had a slotted top link hole until seeing/reading this. I'm posting a couple pics of my new Caroni. It looks like I have a slotted top link option but no slotted bottom link option (but I do have a float option for the tractor, so I guess that is ok).

Dave

 

[Reg]

Very helpful pics and comments. I didn't realize I even had a slotted top link hole until seeing/reading this. I'm posting a couple pics of my new Caroni. It looks like I have a slotted top link option but no slotted bottom link option (but I do have a float option for the tractor, so I guess that is ok).

Dave

From what I can see the lift arm pins seem to be on short arms that pivot (optionally).
If this is so, then they probably perform the same function as slotted lower arms.

 

[scuvnut]

Ironhorse,

Thanks for your comments.

I understand why you are suggesting to elongate that top slotted hole. I went out to the mower and took a couple of more quick pictures. The first one is of the opposite side and you will see that there is a small tubular structure that would limit the length I could elongate the hole. However, other than being a screwdriver holder, I don't see any particular purpose for it, so I could remove that (is there a use that I don't know about for it).

The second picture (which I did my best to hold the tape measure and take the picture) shows the hole is about 1 1/2 inches currently and I could easily get it to 3 1/2 inches without the ball end hitting the RHS hoop frame. Incidentally and to satisfy my curiosity, what does RHS stand for?

Now for the big question - this is some serious thick metal. What is the best way to actually elongate these holes?

Once the holes are elongated, am I correct that I would lower the mower to the ground so the back roller is touching the ground and then I would adjust my top link so the pin is right in the center of the newly elongated hole?

Foozle - Glad the pics helped you as well. Congrats on your new Caroni!

 

[GinNB]

A few points I've found with slotted toplink holes. First, they allow the mower to ride over humps. Two, they works best with a mower that glides along on the roller and the side skidplates (IMHO). Three, some designs require a looong toplink. Four, watch what the mower looks like when you lift it- I've got one with a slotted toplink that dangles at an awkward angle that tends to break the toplink triangle structure on the mower if the toplink isn't shortened for transport and then lengthened again to use it after arriving. PITA.