Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[kimaran]

Thanks so much guys
I think 2 of the bolts are broken off - how do I get those out
I took 4 off in order to remove the cover

Thanks for suggesting I test it without the belt and cover - my work scheduler is hectic the rest of the week not sure when I can do anything else to it

 

[kimaran]

The bolt that is obviously sticking out seems slightly curved or is bent
Is that the tension wheel bolt

 

[kimaran]

Who has the best price on hammer knives

 

[leonz]

Hello Kimaron,

Broken bolts are the worst if they are sheared off completely.
It takes time and patience to remove them with a left hand
twist drill and a center punch.

If possible, would would you be so kind as to take some
more pictures of the broken bolts and up load them to
the forum? This way I and the other flail mower owners
can help you better with the problems you have to deal with.


The issue with Flail mower scoop knives which are the type
you have its a case of piece count when purchasing them as
well as hanger straps and knife hangers.

If all the scoop knives, knife hangers and knife hanger straps are intact
you will only need a dozen or so new hanger straps, knife hangers and
fine thread nuts and bolts and lock washers.

The fine threaded nuts and bolts and lock washers can be purchased in bulk from a Fastenal dealer
Tractor Supply Inc, Farm and Fleet, Menards or Mcmaster Carr. Mcmaster Carr usually has the best prices for nuts bolts and lock washers.

Its always a good idea to replace each and every nut bolt and washer when changing scoop knives or side slicer knives as they will become nicked and the threads are pretty well damaged from the debris the flail mower
will kick up over time.

If you replace all the scoop knives, hanger straps,nuts, bolts and lock washers your still going to pay more because you will be buying under fifty units of each item.

For now It would be better for you to correctly identify your flail mower and then you can order a catalog from the flail master or clean cutter folks and check with the local implement dealer that handles the brand of flail mower you own to obtain prices for the scoop knife, knife hanger, hanger strap and buy the fine threaded nuts and bolts and blue Loctite from one of the suppliers I detailed above to save money on them.

Purchasing a good wire brush and very small stiff wire brush to clean the threads of the hanger bolts before you remove them will save you some work and reduce the deposits in the swear jar.

We all want you to succeed Kimaron so no worries there.

 

[leonz]

NOW about the drive end picture of your flail mower.

First the tension snubber pulley is not spring tensioned it has a threaded
rod and nut that is used to provide the tension required to operate your
flail mower correctly. Not the best way but works well on many
brands of European Flail Mowers.

You will need to loosen the nut that tensions the snubber pulley to install
the new V belts. if can pick up a can of PB blaster which is a penetrating
oil and lubricant it will aid in loosening the tensioning nut that holds the
snubber pulley in place.

The snubber pulley and the driven pulley look fine so no worries there.

The two studs that are broken off flush may have a pair of nuts holding them
in place and would be easy to replace but until we see the inside of the V Belt
guards cover behind the broken studs we will be unable to help you.

 

[sidecarist]

Well it really does exist!. It will be next week sometime before I can get it mounted and tested, but its a step closer!

Sneak Peak....

View attachment 485160

I pick it up tomorrow hopefully I'll also get it mounted before dark...

Pics tomorrow....

 

[Fallon]

The bolt that is obviously sticking out seems slightly curved or is bent
Is that the tension wheel bolt

All those bolts are just 1.5 or 2" carridge bolts, 3/8" if I recall. The one to mount the snubber pully is just a long carridge bolt. If any are broken a hammer & punch or screwdriver will get em right out. Pretty easy when you look at it up close.

 

[sidecarist]

Woodmaxx FM 78H flail with hydraulic offset.

I picked it up and didn't get to touch it until almost dark.

First impressions...

Shipped in a very secure bolted together angle iron frame/pallet. I have quite a bit of 1-1/4" angle for projects now.

Paint could be better, it's glossy, but there are a few runs and drips, not a big deal to me but some may not like it.

Spares that I ordered were shipped with the mower in sturdy wood boxes. I got a full set of side slicers, and 8 spare hammers. (I ordered the mower with hammers) all appear reasonably sharp and consistent in the ground edges. New bolts and lock nuts were provided as well.

PTO shaft was 3" too long but that's better than too short. The u-jounts needed grease. It has a slip clutch. I backed off the tension and we will see what it takes to slip it, rather than the belts. This may be more of a pain and I may just tighten it up, we will see.

Gearbox was full and it was tagged as filled. The gearbox has an overrunning clutch. All bearing zerks had fresh grease on them, but I added 5-6 pumps just to be safe.

Belts are gates (I need to get a spare set) pulleys are in alignment and nicely machined.

The hydraulic lines for the offset are 1/2"npt, no fittings were supplied, I wish this had been called out so I could have had the correct fittings for my remotes on hand...

I set the roller and the skids as low as possible this looks to be about 4in height. Trash door is closed.

I ran it for just a minute, and mowed about 50ft of lawn with it, no vibration to speak of, and the grass got a nice haircut as near as I can tell in the dark...

Fittings and pics tomorrow as well as some light field mowing.

 

[DieselBound]

Anyone have experience with a Rankin SMO-200?

Used one popped up locally.

 

[sidecarist]

Woodmaxx FM78H Flail.

I got my Hydraulics hooked up today and the side shift works very well. See the pics for full left/right. I think it will work out nicely.



I mowed a little in my field, its been awfully dry so its not much of a challenge, but it leaves a nice cut. I also mowed some small brush all less than 1in, it flattens some of it out, but going back over it in the opposite direction cleans it up nicely.



I have the roller set all the way down as well as the shoes. I'll keep it this way until I have mowed everything once with it, then lower it a bit. Interestingly Woodmaxx recommends it be set up with a static angle of 15deg up in front as opposed to level. This is how it is set, and it does float nicely with the slotted top link hole.

I did also find one rock about the size of a softball, it made quite a racket, but there appears to be no damage.



Overall my first impression is positive. It appears to be well built, the welds all look to be solid, its easily greased, etc. for the $$$ I think its a good value. We'll see how it holds up in the long run but I think it will ultimately be more durable than my HD Rotary cutter.

I also tried running it using my tractors 790RPM PTO and throttling down so the output is 540 as indicated on the Tach. This worked quite well as the tractor runs cooler, and being gear drive it lets me run slower in each gear. We will see how this works in wetter conditions, but for now it's useful.

Questions or comments please let me know.