Life Expectancy

[smokey]

Kubota parts availability can be gauged by their response to requests for parts for older models. I have a Kubota KF walk behind (purchased 1972). Can still get the odd part from Kubota Australia. Not all parts for the original B6000 (1974) are still available. American Kubota use different parts numbers to the rest of the world to try to make their models unique. This is an issue in getting spare parts for older models.

The best trick is to maintain the machine. Do not leave it outside in the weather. Change oil and filters regularly. Most seals, bearings and bushes are available at the local bearing shop.

 

[montelatici]

I sold a B5200 on Ebay last year that I bought new in 1986 after I bought a new BX24 TLB (from the same dealer!). Never had a problem for parts. In fact, prior to the sale on Ebay I bought a bunch of obscure parts that I had neglected to replace like broken light lenses, handles, compression release cable, engine side panel etc. No problem. Must say, the B5200 needed just one real repair in its lifetime when the hydraulic pump rotor/bearing broke and cracked the casing 2 years ago. And I found those parts easily.

 

[AndyinIowa]

Most manufacturers have a pretty straightforward service policy for machines produced today.

1. Parts are considered active production until they are no longer used in any new production vehicles.

2. Once parts are no longer active production, service parts status will be maintained for xx years. Almost all NA OEM's have a 12-15 year policy.

3. As the service parts reach the end of their policy, OEM will evaluate usage, cost of inventory and maintenance. Parts that are cast, for instance, require the OEM's supplier to maintain a die or mold. Suppliers often charge storage or maintenance for tooling.

For the average user, it means you can buy parts for about 20 years after you bought a new tractor. It also explains why you can get some parts without any trouble, and others are obsolete.

Another consideration - service parts are $$$, and OEM's will sell you parts as long as they can make good money. Buying a low volume no name tractor will definitely save money on the front end, but may cost you considerably more in TCO (Total Cost of Ownership) vs. a high volume tractor like Kubota or Deere.

I'm not that old, but I clearly recall the first Belarus tractors in the states that needed parts. Our neighbor had two tractors that sat for months at a time because parts weren't available.

IowaAndy

 

[art]

Andy, we had a local dealer for those tractors and he just told people they were so cheap to buy two! That way one would always or should always be able to get the work done!

 

[FredWalter]

You could potentially have a 25 year old piece of equipment that is as good as new but need a few key parts that are not available. What would you do?

I have a Case 680CK Series B backhoe, made ~1970.

Last fall the power steering pump failed. Not only does Case no longer have that pump in stock, they no longer have any parts for that pump in stock. I ended up calling 10 different hydraulic guys before I found one that was able to source a pump that I could bolt onto my engine. I ended up having to screw around with small hoses to connect from where the hydraulic fittings were on my old pump to where they were on the new pump.

I've had various other things bend or break on it, that I've gotten fixed here or there.

Basically, if you've got the time, and can pay someone to do custom work, you can get parts to keep your old machines running. However at some point you need to look at whether or not it makes sense to keep that machine running, versus getting something else that doesn't require constant repairs.

 

[Rumber]

HI What was the replacement power steering pump that will bolt in to a case 680ck c series backhoe?
I can not find a used replacement power steering pump. HELP

Chuck

 

[hrcarver]

My jd 7200 has 6700hrs, my 7700 has over 8000hrs. My ford 7740 has over 6000 hrs, ford 3000 has over 6500 hrs. Now, I just got my first kubota yesterday, but I expect a minimum of 8000 hrs before major trouble or I'll never buy another. I dont even keep books on the maintenance like most people on here are so obsessive about. I just change the oil and all filters once a year. Keep an eye on the antifreeze and hydo oil. Grease it every day (or 10 hrs if that takes more than a day) you use it.

 

[MHarryE]

Here is the engine design life standard from EPA for meeting emissions requirement:

<19 kW (25 HP) 3,000 hours and 5 years
19 - 37 kW (25 - 50 HP ) 5,000 hours and 7 years
>37 kW (50 HP) 8,000 hours and 10 years

The way it is stated it is kind of like the automobile emissions standards when they were put into effect. If your vehicle failed to meet emissions standards during the specified period, the manufactuer was responsible for changing any failed parts. In this case the design life is not the manufacturer required emissions spec life. For example, the over 50 HP engine has an in-use testing liability period of 7 years or 6,000 hours.

If you want to read any more on the engine specs, the link is:

Emission Standards: USA: Nonroad Diesel Engines

When I go to the dieselnet page it is usually covered with Kubta advertising. Not sure if that means anything but it is the best summary I have found on line for off highway engine emissions regs.

 

[mikel771]

I/ H IN THE LATE 70'S WITH TEST STAND ENGINE, DT466, WHICH IS WAS A FAIRLY DIRTY ENGINE THEN, FUEL SOOT WISE, FILTERED THE OIL THROUGH MICRON STRAINERS (FOR THE EQUIVALENT OF 5000 HRS OR 300,000 MI.) IN ORDER TO DETERMINE WHAT SIZE OIL CONTAMINATION PARTICALS/MOLECULES AND CHEMISTRY CONTRIBUTED TO THE MOST ENGINE WEAR.
THEY FOUND THAT BETWEEN 1.0 -1/10th MICRON CARBON (FUEL SOOT) CONTRIBUTED AT 98%
SULFUR FROM FUEL COMBINING WITH MOISTURE TO CREATE SULFURIC ACID 1.5% -WHICH IS A DOWNTIME SOAK PROBLEM.
SALTS AND SILICA QUARTZS(FIELD DUST FROM THE AIR BYPASING THE AIR FILTER) .5%
THE LESSON HERE IS ,YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY MUCH ABOUT YOUR OIL FILTRATION BECAUSE GOOD QUALITY OIL AND AIR FILTERS THESE DAYS. FILTER OUT
1.0 MICRON OR LESS. ALWAYS FREQUENTLY CHECK YOU AIR FILTER HOSE/DUCT "PAST AIR THE FILTER (S)" FOR SUPER FINE DUST, IF THIS IS HAPPENING YOUR
ENGINE IS BEING DUSTED AND IS DAMAGING PISTONS, CYLINDER WALLS, RINGS AND CONTAMINATING YOUR OIL.
AS FOR THE SULFUR, WE HAVE "LOW" SULFUR FUEL, BUT CHANGE AND WELL DRAIN FOR SEASONAL SHUTDOWN EVEN IF LOW HOURS ON OIL.

 

[Fallon]

I/ H IN THE LATE 70'S WITH TEST STAND ENGINE, DT466...

Internet etiquette... Posting in ALL CAPS is equivalent to yelling. Its hard to read & annoying.

Interesting info though, thanks. Please keep contributing, just not in all caps.