Lift Arm - telescoping sway bars
- Thread starter subzero
- Start date
sunspot
Gold Member
I am also looking for the same thing for a Ford but in the mean time, would this help you.
3 Point Hitch Stabilizer Chains Yanmar, Kubota Tractors - eBay (item 300187438132 end time Jan-10-08 08:17:38 PST)
Or item 300187438132 on eBay. Sorry, I don't know how to hyperlink.
3 Point Hitch Stabilizer Chains Yanmar, Kubota Tractors - eBay (item 300187438132 end time Jan-10-08 08:17:38 PST)
Or item 300187438132 on eBay. Sorry, I don't know how to hyperlink.
PILOON
Super Star Member
sunspot said:
I purchased a set for my Mitsubishi as I had lost one origional turnbuckle barrel.
The lost part was going to cost $80.00 ++ and the aftermarket kit did the job nicely.
Actually even better then the origional.
wa9w00d
Member
Hi Subzero,
Sorry if this is kind of late, but just ran across your post. I made a set of telescoping sway bars for my Mahindra 4110. They were built as light duty, as far as I was concerned. Kind of a proof of concept. But I have yet to buckle them, even with a fairly heavy harrow. They are made of 1.5" and 1.25" square tubing, both .125" thick wall. I drilled the outside with three holes 1.5" apart, and the inside tube with holes 1" apart, so the adjustment rate is .25". As this is my first post, I will attempt to attach some photos, but I will apologize ahead of time if they are missing. Also, I would say at this point, I would drop the link of chain I left in on the original.
Sorry if this is kind of late, but just ran across your post. I made a set of telescoping sway bars for my Mahindra 4110. They were built as light duty, as far as I was concerned. Kind of a proof of concept. But I have yet to buckle them, even with a fairly heavy harrow. They are made of 1.5" and 1.25" square tubing, both .125" thick wall. I drilled the outside with three holes 1.5" apart, and the inside tube with holes 1" apart, so the adjustment rate is .25". As this is my first post, I will attempt to attach some photos, but I will apologize ahead of time if they are missing. Also, I would say at this point, I would drop the link of chain I left in on the original.
sunspot
Gold Member
Great idea. How did you get the chain link into the eyelet? Also, where did you get the eyelet?
wa9w00d
Member
sunspot said:
Hi Dana,
Thanks. Actually, what you see on each end of the square tubing is the remainder of the original turnbuckle type sway links. I welded a plug in each end of the tubing, sawed out the turnbuckle, and welded the tubing in. If you didn't want to sacrifice your original though, the eyelet should be available from a good hardware supplier, as well as weldable chain links. Try McMaster Carr.
McMaster-Carr
Later,
Wayne
RobJ
Elite Member
subzero said:
I bought the ones like Sunspot posted off ebay. They work ok. I wish there was a little more thread to work with. I never use the lock nuts so it's just a twist here and a twist there.
I'm noodling a homemade set. It's tough to find the right telescoping material to use. Factory looks like a 3/8" 1.25" flat bar, the rect tube looks to be 3/16" thick. 16ga tubing probably isn't enough.
On my L I can buy just the telescoping parts for $86 for each side with some of the pins and stuff (TA140-39606). Doesn't include the ends that I'd have to make for my L (not an option).
Wayne's looks ok but I wanted to match the factory more and not have the chain links in there.
The more I think about it what I have works ok. Keep us updated if you make one.
RobJ
Elite Member
I was buy a dealer and took some shots of this. It's off an M5000 or M50??. I'm going for something like this. I have an L so I have to go on the outside (more room than a B, wider tires). I think these are the P/N I mentioned above. As I was driving out I stopped by a bigger Kubota. M7??? not sure. The stabilizer arms were heavier metal. But rolled in a U shape. The female piece was also a U shape and only had about 8" of the U closed up to form the tube. Interesting. No pics of that one.
I've got some more ideas so I'm not killing this yet.
I've got some more ideas so I'm not killing this yet.
Attachments
WarrenF
Gold Member
Question.....why not simply modify a toplink to attach to the various points on the tractor and the bottom arms of the three point hitch? I know you can get the top links in various lenghts and sizes and they have the bushings that move.....so would be a whole lot less hassle and would not have to weld. Simply make sure you got long enough pins to attach.