3-Point Hitch lift capacity

[6sunset6]

Please hold the unrelated remarks.
Spec says 1635# 24" behind the balls.
What does this mean? At the ends of the lift arms or 24" further back.

 

[RoyJackson]

Please hold the unrelated remarks.
Spec says 1635# 24" behind the balls.
What does this mean? At the ends of the lift arms or 24" further back.

24" aft of the lower link "eyeball" connections.
This is a very realistic way to specify lift, IMHO...since the weight of an implement is rarely at the 3PH hookup.
Just remember longer implements (rotary cutters are a good example) have a good percentage of their weight far aft of the 3PH.

 

[6sunset6]

Thanks. I have to move 60 yards of dirt about a 1000 yards, party on town road and the rest on a woods road.
Front bucket is kinda small. Dump trailer I don't have and don't want to build.
I was thinking of a rear bucket . maybe 1/2 yd sounds about right. Steel frame sort of like a pallet mover and just enough angle iron to hold plywood sides.
Dump with a hydraulic top link ,or enough angle to hoe it out. Maybe 3/4 yard or a little more both ends of the tractor .
I will move this to build it yourself when I get started. Oh yeah I have another tractor to load it, but it is a little old and I don't like to take it out on the road.

 

[LD1]

Sounds like a fun project, but depending on how much dirt you have to move, I think you'll end up using the loader. Just keep pleanty of ballast on.

You should be able to get ~1/3 yard in the loader, and it is easier to load and dump when you get there. No getting off to "hoe" it out.

But if you do build it, you could use both the loader AND rear scoop like you are planning. You will almost be able to carry a full yard each trip