Lift on 3 point seems awfully short.....how to fix?

[bswiv]

 

[jeff9366]

I believe the B series has two pin adjustment holes on the right and left Lifting Rod stirrups, which attach to the Lower Links. If the pins are in the lower holes, move them to the upper holes.

HIGHER HOLES = HIGHER LIFT

This suggestion is out. Your Lifting Rod stirrups have only a single hole.

Yes, I believe there are 2 holes to chose from on the lift link stirrup and 2 on the lift arm. If he choses the rearward hole on the arm, there is less height but more power, while the front hole gives him height but less power.

Your overdue photo shows your tractor outfitted with Turf Tires.
Turf tires are smaller diameter than R4/industrial tires, so your tractor sits lower than it would outfitted with R1 or R4 tires, hence your lack of sufficient lift. Most would operate a Rotary Cutter with R4/industrial tires on tractor due to 50% greater puncture resistance of six-ply R4s relative to four-ply Turf Tires.

Your photo shows three holes in your Lower Links. Stirrups are currently pinned in the center hole. If you pin the stirrups through the inboard hole, rather than the center hole, implement lift height will increase.

The inboard hole is not the standard/default pin hole, that is the outboard hole, but the three holes at varying locations on each of your Lower Links are there to be used.

You still may need to adjust the Top Link after moving to inboard Lower Link pin holes.

Best to keep the tail wheel on the ground when "running down the road". A Rotary Cutter is long. Bouncing puts much leveraged stress on the Top Link, which can strip or threads deform so Top Link cannot be adjusted. A Kubota 'B' requires more TLC than a massive M8540.

Some older implements had unusualy high pin locations. So with cutter on ground your arms may already be up most of the way.

High pin locations accommodated larger diameter R1/ag tires before R4/industrial tires took 90% of the new compact tractor tire market.



Finish/Lawn Mowers are designed around R4 and Turf Tires.


With a photo in Post #1 your question would have been answered in one or two responses.

 

[bswiv]

This suggestion is out. Your Lifting Rod stirrups have only a single hole.




Your overdue photo shows your tractor outfitted with Turf Tires.
Turf tires are smaller diameter than R4/industrial tires, so your tractor sits lower than it would outfitted with R1 or R4 tires, hence your lack of sufficient lift. Most would operate a Rotary Cutter with R4/industrial tires on tractor due to 50% greater puncture resistance of six-ply R4s relative to four-ply Turf Tires.

Your photo shows three holes in your Lower Links. Stirrups are currently pinned in the center hole. If you pin the stirrups through the inboard hole, rather than the center hole, implement lift height will increase.

The inboard hole is not the standard/default pin hole, that is the outboard hole, but the three holes at varying locations on each of your Lower Links are there to be used.

You still may need to adjust the Top Link after moving to inboard Lower Link pin holes.

Best to keep the tail wheel on the ground when "running down the road". A Rotary Cutter is long. Bouncing puts much leveraged stress on the Top Link, which can strip or threads deform so Top Link cannot be adjusted. A Kubota 'B' requires more TLC than a massive M8540.




High pin locations accommodated larger diameter R1/ag tires before R4/industrial tires took 90% of the new compact tractor tire market.



Finish/Lawn Mowers are designed around R4 and Turf Tires.


With a photo in Post #1 your question would have been answered in one or two responses.

Only 2 holes in arms. Pins are in inboard ones.

Friend suggester I drill a second set of holes in the stirrups as this will give over 2 inches at that point. Not sure how to translate that out the the end of the implement but it does make sense.

Your point on tires too makes sense, though as we bought it used and the tires are in good shape........and most of what we do with it is mow roads and around the barns.....changing tires seems expensive.

As to the lateness of the picture....guilty as charged.

 

[ruffdog]

On my Boomer and Toolcat, there is little exposed threads on the RH adjustable link when both lift arms are the same height. You have lots of threads showing and I assume your mower is level. One option I would be looking at is cutting the weld on the LH link and shortening the tube a bit, then, reweld. How much to cut off?...how much shorter would your adjustable RH link be if there was only 3/4" exposed thread top/bottom? What you gain lifting your mower will be twice the amount you can shorten the lift links.

 

[jeff9366]

New holes positioned 2" higher in the Lifting Rod stirrups should increase your mower lift 4" to
5" at the implement draw pins.

 

[bswiv]

New holes positioned 2" higher in the Lifting Rod stirrups should increase your mower lift 4" to
5" at the implement draw pins.

Is there any issue with that plan that I'm missing? Seems awfully straight forward, and if it fails nothing is ruined as I'd not cut anything off.

 

[jeff9366]

It may be a bit difficult to align the holes drilling from each side of the stirrup, but not impossible. A drill press would be better than a hand-held drill. I hope the steel is not too hard.

I cannot think of any other negative.

 

[bswiv]

It may be a bit difficult to align the holes drilling from each side of the stirrup, but not impossible. A drill press would be better than a hand-held drill. I hope the steel is not too hard.

I cannot think of any other negative.

My lack of a drill press does have me a bit concerned. Might be that I'll carry when I go pick up a sprayer unit at the welding shop next week and get them to drill them. Though I will make a test with the hand drill just to see if the metal is soft enough to where I can give it a shot.

 

[aczlan]

It may be a bit difficult to align the holes drilling from each side of the stirrup, but not impossible. A drill press would be better than a hand-held drill. I hope the steel is not too hard.
I cannot think of any other negative.

Meh, its vertically centered and as long as you are within 1/8" front to back it should be close enough. That should be doable with a 1/8" pilot bit, then drill it out the the proper size (5/8"?).

Aaron Z

 

[LD1]

Cannot see in the picture because of the rocker arm....but it looks like you have more than one place to mount the toplink on the tractor.

Make sure its in the LOWEST hole.....try again and report back