Light switches/lights

[rayh76]

Ok, I am almost tired of searching the threads for suggestions on wiring for lights, etc. Hope no one minds me posting this in the NH section but I do own a Case DX40. Here are my plans...I want two forward facing Traps on the ROPS and two rear facing Traps on the ROPS. I won't drill but found an excelent thread on making brackets that can be moved. I will run a 10G wire from the battery to a 30A fuse or breaker. Plan on two relays (30A) and two switches tied into the 86. Will break the low voltage with the switch as others have suggested so the relay will not be powered unless the switch is on. Ok, where are most of you making the connection to power the relay when the ignition switch is turned on? I am an idiot when it comes to auto/tractor wiring. Is there any concern of the amp draw on this circuit that you guys have tied into? I haven't seen any mention of this. Second question, for you guys that have bought the NH or Case switches, which one did you get? Messicks has both the light and the flasher switch. The light switches have 2 different switches built in but the flasher is just an on/off. I was considering going with the flasher switch. Any suggestions. Any suggestions between the Hobbs 3x5 or 4x6 Traps? Both are rated the same so does it matter between the two. Would it be best to have one Trap and one flood facing rear? Anyone done this? Lastly, where do you guys by your relays? Online? Thanks and sorry for another lighting thread. I Love this website!!! Thanks. Ray

 

[Ford850]

Ray,
I'm listing a few theads below that I saved when I researched this. I ended up using the worklight wires on mine, that were tucked up along each rear fender. I could get by with those since I only used 2 lights, and that way they come on when I turn on the front work lights with no need for extra switches etc. I like the 4x6 Hobbs floods, as they give out a lot of light within working distance of the tractor. I couldn't see the need for the traps unless I was driving at higher speeds or on the road, since they put the usable light out so far. Either way, the Hobbs give you more lens for the money and have a great quality light.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88895&highlight=lights
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...worklights-installed-their-5.html#post1279150
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/108379-worklights-4510-a-2.html?highlight=lights

 

[rayh76]

Thanks FORD850, I think I have read all those threads. I am still trying to figure out what rocker switch to use on the dash. They measure about 1"x2" and I want a weather resistant type. Probably just 2 SPST switches. I checked out DelCity but their drawings don't match the size of my rocker switch plate. The Ancor brand looks much closer at 1.933x0.94". Of course I could order from Dealer at over $20 a piece. I don't want the headlight switch as it has 2 detents (I think this is called) or a DPST switch?

FORD850, I really enjoyed your thread on light brackets.

 

[wolfpack2]

I purchased the headlamp switch and wired the rear lights to the running light post and the front mounted lights to the headlight post. As the switch is an A or A+B type, this allows me to run either the rear lamps only or both front and rear. I have found that I rarely need only the fronts as I am typically doing loader work when I need the ROPS mounted front lights, and need the rear lights for backing up. When I am mowing or doing other rear implement work, I typically have the loader off and use just the rear lights with the factory front lights.

 

[Ford850]

Ray,

I added a few tips to my original Light Backet post this morning.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/114640-worklight-brackets.html

 

[Soundguy]

'Bout the only thing I can add is to add up your total anticipated load of the tractor, it's lamps,a nd your additional lamps, and check that vs the tractors alternator output... just see where you are... minimal discharge for short periods are ok.. long periods.. and you will need a bigger dynamo..

soundguy

 

[1715]

I can't answer all your questions, but here's what I used. I bought two brackets from allstarperformance.com (Part # ALL14189) and used those to mount my lights. They are actually Ballast Brackets but have two 1/2"-13 holes tapped on each end and will clamp anywhere to the 2"x2" ROPS. Then I just modified my brackets that came with my lights (Piaa and KC) to accept a 1/2" bolt. As for wiring I spent a little bit extra and just purchased the wiring harness that's designed for the lights and hooked everything up from there.

Anyway, I've attached a couple photos showing my lights and the website screen shot for the brackets if you don't want to make a bracket.

Thanks
1715

 

[Solo]

When I added my work lights I bent my own brackets out of 1/8"x1" steel. I placed it under one of the ROPs bolts. I bought the switch at a JD construction dealer, I think it is from a log skidder or dozer. The part # is AT175603. The location for the switch had a blank on it so I removed the blank and enlarged the hole just slightly for the switch to fit.

Solo

 

[rayh76]

Thanks for all the replys and the photos! I went to Autozone and Orielly's tonight and either place didn't have a 30 amp weather proof fuse. Hard to believe.

 

[Soundguy]

tsc, napa and carquest carry the blade style weatherproof inline fuse holders..

soundguy