lights for ROPS

[5030]

Perspective being is that any manufacturer will use the least expensive material for fabrication purposes. There are at least 50 different grades of stainless, the cheaper grades are more prone to cracking as they are more brittle. Mounting lights on the ROPS amplifies the vibration problem from the inherent vibrations being produced by the motor. That's why the internal parts of J.W. Speaker lights are encased in a synthetic rubber, just to dampen that vibration. The actual mount, whether stainless or mild steel will be prone to vibration fatigue, it's just that mild steel has more elasticity than a more brittle stainless. I could get really techinical and include the ASTM specs for various grades of stainless versus mild steel for hardness and elasticity as pertaining to fatigue, but it is not germane to this discussion. The important point is that in general, a stainless mount, while virtually maintenance free, is more prone to cracking that a mild steel one.

 

[icat]

Add a rubber washer. That should dampen the vibration and eliminate the problem.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

I have LOTS of trees. A limb is likely to hit any light on my ROPS. A $45 Light may last a little longer than a $11 Peterson from Wally World. But, not much. The next user might not have to worry about limbs. That's when other factors mght come into play.

 

[uhmgawa]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Add a rubber washer. That should dampen the vibration and eliminate the problem. )</font>

I agree. The true issue is optimizing return on investment.
I could design a $5000 toaster which would last forever and
except for price is superior to any other toaster. I doubt
if I'd see much sales volume.

Quality of an item in excess of that usable in a given
application lowers return on investment.

 

[5030]

A $5000.00 toaster is a Freightliner with wiring problems. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Chief]

Does anybody have the John Deere work lights with the brush guard installed? Would love to see some pictures and some feedback as to how well they work and hold up. I encounter alot of brush and tree branches and am afraid of breaking pretty much any light unless it is really built heavy duty.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I was checking out the light thing lastnight, my new 2210 has holes predrilled in the rops.

 

[chim]

Maybe I just didn't notice, but has anyone with ROPS-mounted lights said anything about bugs in the Summertime?. One of the reasons my lights are down (and inboard of the framing) is to keep the annoying bugs away from my head. The other big reason is they are protected from damage via the FEL frame.

My BIL bought me a neat strobe for the tractor. I rigged up a magnet mount with a tether to catch it when it got whacked. It got whacked often enough the tether got worn out and ripped. This is one item that really oughta be mounted high. Going back to the drawing board on that one..............chim

 

[Mike_S]

Chief--I have the brush guards on my turn signals/blinkers on my 4400, but the rear work lights are mounted on the inside of the ROPS and are not bothered by tree limbs. The other lights have been saved numerous times thanks to their armor. However, if a limb strikes the front of the blinker(inside the armor) it will easily break the lens and as much as sthese lenses cost, they could easily be made of polycarbonate or Lexan and not be so subject to breaking. Is the armor kit worth it if you mow around branches--you bet it is. The graphic that I hope gets attached (have not tried this before) shows the armor with lots of wear from tree limbs, but in two years, there have been no broken lenses. Hope this helps. Michael S.

 

[Chief]

Mike_S, Thanks for the pics! I think I will look into a set .