Limits on reverse speed

[J_J]

All four wheels, with springs holding them locked until unlocked by hydraulic pressure, similar to some truck air systems.

Although some of the PT's have hyd parking brakes, the only other braking action is the treadle, which is as you said a hydraulic valve. I would like to see a system that would apply hydraulic braking action when in neutral. This can be done in a way, similar to the parking brake. If the system senses no movement, it would automatically apply a hyd brake, and when you touch the treadle, a pilot line would activate and release the brakes.

 

[J_J]

In some situations you just can't beat a walk behind. I have mine set up with a pro-slide sulky so to be able to ride, but in a jam like you had I can just step off and let her go.

Another short story. While cutting grass with a walk behind Toro 36, with a riding sulky, I was doing good, until I came upon a little berm with a ditch and another berm. Going up was OK, but down in the ditch area, when the Toro was going up, and the sulky was going down, the bar in between the handles came down across my legs, and hurt like ****. That's the last time I used a riding sulky.

 

[Barryh]

Another short story. While cutting grass with a walk behind Toro 36, with a riding sulky, I was doing good, until I came upon a little berm with a ditch and another berm. Going up was OK, but down in the ditch area, when the Toro was going up, and the sulky was going down, the bar in between the handles came down across my legs, and hurt like ****. That's the last time I used a riding sulky.

Interesting story J.J. do you have any more like that I should watch out for, using a walk behind. I just ordered the one below with a sulky.

They are also recommending straight 30 weight, over a multi viscosity on the Kawi V-16. They claim multi breaks down to much under extreme heat. Now I’m contemplating maybe doing the same in the summer with the Robin, then changing back to multi viscosity during the winter.

Commercial Lawn Mowers, Commercial Mower, Wide Cut Commercial Walk Behind Mowers, Commercial Grade Walk Behind Wide Cut Mowers, Quick 36

 

[J_J]

Interesting story J.J. do you have any more like that I should watch out for, using a walk behind. I just ordered the one below with a sulky.

They are also recommending straight 30 weight, over a multi viscosity on the Kawi V-16. They claim multi breaks down to much under extreme heat. Now I’m contemplating maybe doing the same in the summer with the Robin, then changing back to multi viscosity during the winter.

Commercial Lawn Mowers, Commercial Mower, Wide Cut Commercial Walk Behind Mowers, Commercial Grade Walk Behind Wide Cut Mowers, Quick 36

Do you only use walk behinds? Most of my walk behinds were Toro's with Kohler engines. I even used some Troybuilt mowers, but the cogged belts and plastics pulleys didn't last long. you; had to sync the blades so they would not touch each other. I would put slime or whatever in all your tires, and keep a fully built up spare for different machines. Our biggest problem here in Florida, is dust and dirt. It eats the blades up and ruins engines. You have to triple filter, relocate filters, etc. I replaced many wheel bearings.
Side ramps on landscape trailers come in handy. Otherwise exit from the front with a certain machine. My best setup was a 1990 Ryder box van 15 ft with granny cab, pulling a 16 ft trailer.. Kept everything inside. nothing on trailers except mowers, and gas cans. I also did other things for customers like pressure washing, and installing and repairing irrigation systems. Good help is hard to find, it isn't just the pay, they just don't have good work ethics.

 

[BobRip]

Interesting story J.J. do you have any more like that I should watch out for, using a walk behind. I just ordered the one below with a sulky.

They are also recommending straight 30 weight, over a multi viscosity on the Kawi V-16. They claim multi breaks down to much under extreme heat. Now I’m contemplating maybe doing the same in the summer with the Robin, then changing back to multi viscosity during the winter.

Commercial Lawn Mowers, Commercial Mower, Wide Cut Commercial Walk Behind Mowers, Commercial Grade Walk Behind Wide Cut Mowers, Quick 36

Look at what their oil chart says about synthetic oil. Usually it can be run year around. On my B&S engine for my generator it say use single viscosity (nonsynthetic) oil above 40 degrees F and multiviscosity below 40. No overlap. You can use synthetic over the entire range. I did not really feel like changing oil in the afternoon, and again in the evening. I use synthetic. Perhaps I am being a little too careful, but this way I change oil once a year.

 

[MossRoad]

When one normally uses the brakes, the purpose is to stop forward or backward motion. The foot control normally goes to neutral. I don't see a situation where you would use the brake and the foot control on the Kubota at the same time, however on the PT, if you take your foot off the treadle, you might go to neutral.

Conventional tractors use those split brakes for tight turning by locking the inside wheel and pivoting around it. It really tears stuff up under it. They usually have a latch that can flip across the pedal so that no matter which brake pedal you hit, both brakes activate. This is a must when traveling at high speed, especially on the road. Imagine goind 15MPH down the road and locking one of the rear tires. You would spin to that side and then probably roll over real quick.

There is no neutral on an HST tractor unless you put the range selector in neutral(if you have a range selector, which PTs do not). If you center the treadle pedal, whether by pushing it there with your feet or letting your feet off the treadle, the tractor will stop and not move forward or backward.

 

[Barryh]

Look at what their oil chart says about synthetic oil. Usually it can be run year around. On my B&S engine for my generator it say use single viscosity (nonsynthetic) oil above 40 degrees F and multiviscosity below 40. No overlap. You can use synthetic over the entire range. I did not really feel like changing oil in the afternoon, and again in the evening. I use synthetic. Perhaps I am being a little too careful, but this way I change oil once a year.

Bob,

I did read what they said about synthetic. No such thing as to careful when it comes to expensive equipment. That's why I’m always second guessing myself on the best way to take care of mine. I also run synthetic.

I know my Robin is new and I could be wrong, but it seems like I had my little gasket leak problem after I put in the Amisol synthetic.

It probably had nothing to do with it the gasket was a little deformed. Just makes me a little suspicious that it might too darn slick. Thus my thinking of maybe changing back regular dino.

I probably won’t but if I did, then I would want maximum protection in a straight 30-W for excessive heat in the summer.

 

[Barryh]

Do you only use walk behinds? Most of my walk behinds were Toro's with Kohler engines. I even used some Troybuilt mowers, but the cogged belts and plastics pulleys didn't last long. you; had to sync the blades so they would not touch each other. I would put slime or whatever in all your tires, and keep a fully built up spare for different machines. Our biggest problem here in Florida, is dust and dirt. It eats the blades up and ruins engines. You have to triple filter, relocate filters, etc. I replaced many wheel bearings.
Side ramps on landscape trailers come in handy. Otherwise exit from the front with a certain machine. My best setup was a 1990 Ryder box van 15 ft with granny cab, pulling a 16 ft trailer.. Kept everything inside. nothing on trailers except mowers, and gas cans. I also did other things for customers like pressure washing, and installing and repairing irrigation systems. Good help is hard to find, it isn't just the pay, they just don't have good work ethics.

I have a 16 foot car trailer, and also a fold up set of ramps on the back of my truck for fast around town on off jobs. I did buy some slime the other day. So I will take your advice and load up the tires and order an extra tire.

I will be a lone operator for the most part. I plan to be very efficient and maximize my time and effort. I’m sure there will be times I need to use a helper for larger jobs. This is also were my PT will shine. I totally agree with you about poor work ethic these days. Better to do it yourself then you know its done right. Man you’re a jack of all trades. I know pressure washing is also a big business around here.

 

[J_J]

Conventional tractors use those split brakes for tight turning by locking the inside wheel and pivoting around it. It really tears stuff up under it. They usually have a latch that can flip across the pedal so that no matter which brake pedal you hit, both brakes activate. This is a must when traveling at high speed, especially on the road. Imagine goind 15MPH down the road and locking one of the rear tires. You would spin to that side and then probably roll over real quick.

There is no neutral on an HST tractor unless you put the range selector in neutral(if you have a range selector, which PTs do not). If you center the treadle pedal, whether by pushing it there with your feet or letting your feet off the treadle, the tractor will stop and not move forward or backward.

What I call neutral is any position that inhibits forward or reverse travel. Having said that, I will almost bet that if your PT is on a down hill slant and you release the treadle, thinking is in neutral, with engine on or off, that it will probably move. Mine will. If you think that neutral is safe, it isn't. Just like the bucket arms that leak down, those wheel motors will turn. Try this when you can, raise both front wheels off the ground, and try and turn one of the front tires in the forward direction. I am thinking that the other wheel will turn in reverse.

 

[Barryh]

What I call neutral is any position that inhibits forward or reverse travel. Having said that, I will almost bet that if your PT is on a down hill slant and you release the treadle, thinking is in neutral, with engine on or off, that it will probably move. Mine will. If you think that neutral is safe, it isn't. Just like the bucket arms that leak down, those wheel motors will turn. Try this when you can, raise both front wheels off the ground, and try and turn one of the front tires in the forward direction. I am thinking that the other wheel will turn in reverse.

Mine will cost down hill over time. That's why if I leave it on an incline. I always leave in a articulated turn so it will gradually go back up hill and stop.

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

I did read what they said about synthetic. No such thing as to careful when it comes to expensive equipment. That's why I’m always second guessing myself on the best way to take care of mine. I also run synthetic.

I know my Robin is new and I could be wrong, but it seems like I had my little gasket leak problem after I put in the Amisol synthetic.

It probably had nothing to do with it the gasket was a little deformed. Just makes me a little suspicious that it might too darn slick. Thus my thinking of maybe changing back regular dino.

I probably won’t but if I did, then I would want maximum protection in a straight 30-W for excessive heat in the summer.

Just for your information I have been running Mobil 1 for over 500 hours on mu PT Robin engine. No problems. It's your decision of course.

 

[ddonnell]

Hydrostat or PT treadle, if you don't engage a brake of some sort, things will try to move on an incline of more than 10-15 degrees without braking. Knowing your machine, CUT or PT, is the ultimate equalizer in any situation. Certainly a newer machine will make this hydraulic braking quicker, as seals, new cylinders, etc. are tighter and fluid motion will be much more restricted. A new unit stops on a dime and gives 5 cents change. Age the system and add some heat from an hour or two of use and things get a little sloppier. That's why I think a fairly hefty "manual" spring system under the pedals, treadle or otherwise, to take it to neutral is a good idea. It wouldn't have to be much of a spring to return any pedal system to neutral quickly without causing undue extra foot power to depress the pedal in whatever direction you wanted to go. I don't know about you guys, but when I'm jamming into a pile of dirt with the bucket, trying to get that last 30 lbs. in the load, I find myself trying to push the pedal through the floorboards. LOL. I doubt I'd have too much problem with a spring system trying to take me to neutral braking. JMO.

 

[KentT]

What I call neutral is any position that inhibits forward or reverse travel. Having said that, I will almost bet that if your PT is on a down hill slant and you release the treadle, thinking is in neutral, with engine on or off, that it will probably move. Mine will. If you think that neutral is safe, it isn't. Just like the bucket arms that leak down, those wheel motors will turn. Try this when you can, raise both front wheels off the ground, and try and turn one of the front tires in the forward direction. I am thinking that the other wheel will turn in reverse.

JJ, IMO there's no direct relationship between one front wheel and the other since they're on separate circuits. Turning one front wheel (or trying to) should pump fluid toward the rear wheel on the same side -- which in your example wouldn't be able to move.

Are you suggesting that the return from one wheel circuit becomes the supply to the other wheel circuit, driving it in reverse? How does that fluid get by the rear wheel motor where the wheel is still sitting on the ground -- in either circuit? It would have to flow backwards (including the fixed rear wheel first on the other side) to drive the other wheel in reverse, wouldn't it?

I'm trying to understand your view of the circuits and how they work...

 

[BAGTIC]

Moss,

You said your PT goes 8mph forward and backward. I know 8 mph is what the PT website says but it seems to me that on smooth level gound it is actually much faster. I wish I could time my PT425 on a paved road. It seems like it tops out at closer to 18 mph than 8 mph.

 

[J_J]

JJ, IMO there's no direct relationship between one front wheel and the other since they're on separate circuits. Turning one front wheel (or trying to) should pump fluid toward the rear wheel on the same side -- which in your example wouldn't be able to move.

Are you suggesting that the return from one wheel circuit becomes the supply to the other wheel circuit, driving it in reverse? How does that fluid get by the rear wheel motor where the wheel is still sitting on the ground -- in either circuit? It would have to flow backwards (including the fixed rear wheel first on the other side) to drive the other wheel in reverse, wouldn't it?

I'm trying to understand your view of the circuits and how they work...

What I have told you are actual facts and observations. How this happens, I haven't figured out yet. I wished I had a hydraulic plumbing diagram. My circuits may not be like yours, so what I say is only relative to my machine. I have had the 1445 off the ground, and the rear wheels will do the same thing. I could make a video I suppose.

 

[MossRoad]

Moss,

You said your PT goes 8mph forward and backward. I know 8 mph is what the PT website says but it seems to me that on smooth level gound it is actually much faster. I wish I could time my PT425 on a paved road. It seems like it tops out at closer to 18 mph than 8 mph.

I think it seems faster than it is because you are close to the ground AND there is no suspension. But it is quick enough, that's for sure.

 

[MossRoad]

What I call neutral is any position that inhibits forward or reverse travel. Having said that, I will almost bet that if your PT is on a down hill slant and you release the treadle, thinking is in neutral, with engine on or off, that it will probably move. Mine will. If you think that neutral is safe, it isn't. Just like the bucket arms that leak down, those wheel motors will turn. Try this when you can, raise both front wheels off the ground, and try and turn one of the front tires in the forward direction. I am thinking that the other wheel will turn in reverse.

That's why I keep my feet on the pedals when operating and set the brake and shut it off every time I get off the unit (except when warming up the hydraulics in the winter, when I do get off the unit while it is running).

 

[johara1]

MR,my 422 goes both directions at the same speed also.i don't see any thing wrong with it,very usefull when moving large amounts of material.......jim

 

[Barryh]

Just for your information I have been running Mobil 1 for over 500 hours on mu PT Robin engine. No problems. It's your decision of course.

I'll probably staying with the synthetic thanks.

 

[MuncyBob]

Barry, I also changed to Mobil 1 on the first oil change. Now at 250 hours and no leaks other than a filter I did not get tight enough 1 time. I also practice a little overkill and change out the Mobil 1 every 50 hours...I think I could probably go longer with the Mobil 1 oil but it's not that expensive....YET!