Linear actuator for power SSQA?

[roadhunter]

Well done. I'm going to have to figure out a way to use my aux hydraulics to do similar. Very convenient to say the least.

 

[Fallon]

Well done. I'm going to have to figure out a way to use my aux hydraulics to do similar. Very convenient to say the least.

My only problem with using hydraulics would be cost. Pulling some rough numbers out of the air...

Hydraulics:
$50-75 cylinder
$50-100 hoses
$100 control valve
$75 relief valve (so you don't break things at full machine pressure)
$10-20 brackets, bolts & stuff

Doing it electrically:
$60-100 linear actuator
$10-20 wire, switch & fuses
$10-20 brackets, bolts & stuff

My linear actuator might be marginal on power & it's longevity remains to be seen, but I'm hopefully. I still probably need to get a 6" actuator instead of a 4", but that was a measurement & parts sourcing flaw on my part, not a design flaw. Now that I've evaluated things on my mostly completed prototype I'm less concerned about the lack of an adjustable limit switch, which means more prospects for linear actuator options. A faster/stronger actuator might be a good idea if you can find one for cheap or afford a better one than I am using.

 

[roadhunter]

My only problem with using hydraulics would be cost. Pulling some rough numbers out of the air...

Hydraulics:
$50-75 cylinder
$50-100 hoses
$100 control valve
$75 relief valve (so you don't break things at full machine pressure)
$10-20 brackets, bolts & stuff

Doing it electrically:
$60-100 linear actuator
$10-20 wire, switch & fuses
$10-20 brackets, bolts & stuff

My linear actuator might be marginal on power & it's longevity remains to be seen, but I'm hopefully. I still probably need to get a 6" actuator instead of a 4", but that was a measurement & parts sourcing flaw on my part, not a design flaw. Now that I've evaluated things on my mostly completed prototype I'm less concerned about the lack of an adjustable limit switch, which means more prospects for linear actuator options. A faster/stronger actuator might be a good idea if you can find one for cheap or afford a better one than I am using.

I am of the opinion that the electric actuator is barely strong/durable enough to support this type of service and that although more expensive the hydraulic option would be my choice if doing something similar as I think it would work better under long term use. Plus I already have aux hydraulics on the FEL so all I would need is a cylinder and hoses. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Fallon]

I had the dash apart this weekend to wire up my power SSQA & a bucket cam. Everything is complete, except for the end out at the boom, the SSQA wire is just wrapped around a brace out there along with he bucket cam wiring, which isn't even hooked up. It's working as designed if you discount the missing 2" of stroke. Levers move eratically, but that's not a big deal as both arms end up locked or unlocked at the end. The missing 2" means one of the pins often is only partially locked though. I might be able to put a block in on the back of the SSQA handle to prevent one or both of the handles from going over center, forcing the other pin to end up more locked. I'll probably do that even if I replace the actuator with a 6" one (I'm also thinking at 6" one with blocks will be a better than an 8" & trying to deal with the extra 1/2" of travel. In either case I'll be doing a lot more measuring this time.

In other news I picked up the Rasbery Pi for my project to automate the wife's chicken coop. So I'll probably be stealing the 4" actuator for that, freeing me up to get a more appropriate one for the SSQA. Debating between another $50 one only getting it in the proper 6" length, or upgrading. Progressive Automations has one that looks good. It isis IPS 66 (pretty darn weather/dirt proof), 400lbs of force (double what my current one is rated to, depending on what you believe) & moves at 1" per minute. It's tripple the price though at $160. I didn't see what the amperage draw on this one is, but I ran wire good to 15@ (think the fuse is only 10@, maybe 15 and is running my bucket cam & ROPS LEDs), so may have to tie my wiring in elsewhere). I might have to re-make my brackets, but given the slots in the end of the actuator that probably means "drill 2 holes in some bar stock", way easier than my current design.

jmc was suitably unimpressed with my hacked together bushings & was kind enough to do up a few on his lathe. Thanks, I expect bushing that are round & square on the ends are going to work a lot better than what I ground down. Those will be getting installed here when I pull it apart to paint.

 

[94BULLITT]

It looks like it works good:thumbsup:

 

[PandDLong]

Interesting to see this come together. Well done - it is beyond my skill level so I'won't be powering my SSQA anytime soon but it has certainly given me ideas on how to use linear actuators (that may fit my skills).

I have to ask - what are you going to automate on the wife's chicken coop?

 

[k0ua]

Interesting to see this come together. Well done - it is beyond my skill level so I'won't be powering my SSQA anytime soon but it has certainly given me ideas on how to use linear actuators (that may fit my skills).

I have to ask - what are you going to automate on the wife's chicken coop?

What is the one thing you hate doing? Opening the the little door to let the chickens out in the morning. And closing the door to keep the predators out at night. That would be my guess.

 

[Fallon]

Interesting to see this come together. Well done - it is beyond my skill level so I'won't be powering my SSQA anytime soon but it has certainly given me ideas on how to use linear actuators (that may fit my skills).

I have to ask - what are you going to automate on the wife's chicken coop?

Really the only hard part is making the bracket for the ends of the actuator. If I go to the beefier linear actuator, the bracket will probably be reduced to literally 2 holes in some bar stock. That wouldn't be adjustable like my current design, which scares me a little given my measuring track record, but noting that can't be overcome.
Wiring it up is tedious but easy. You just have to google "linear actuator wiring diagram" it it shows you how to wire things up. The couple of wiring diagrams here look like what I did.

For the coop, there is going to be a linear actuator to close the door at dark & open it after I wake up & am leaving for work. A webcam to keep an eye on things. Probably a temperature sensor for the air & another one dropped in their water so we can see if it's freezing, along with a water level sensor to see when they need water. As their feeder is hanging from a chain, probably put a scale or at least some kind of on/off switch to detect when they are out of food.

 

[aeblank]

MAN I want one of these. @ $160, it'll go on my christmas list. Will probably need to find it from a source other than ebay though.

Does anyone have CAD of the SSQA? Drawings? Sketches with measurements?

If I can get/make CAD of it, I'll design up a bracket. I'm sure we can position the mounts such that the limits of the travel of the actuator match the limits of the levers. A set of templates could show the position of the holes. With some directions on which actuator to buy, etc. Could be pretty sweet.

Also...........
you said " moves at 1" per minute".
I don't understand that. On the data sheet, it says "Customizable forces: 900 lbs (speed 0.47?sec), 1350 lbs (speed 0.31?sec)"
That yields 6" of travel in 20 seconds at the slower of the two above numbers. Seems pretty sweet...... At 6 minutes, I won't bother....

 

[aeblank]

This must be the actuator.
Linear Actuator IP66 | Progressive Automations (I picked 6" travel, 400lbs).
0.98"/sec. So 1" per second, not minute.

So 400lbs is plenty, we think?